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Going to buy a 2005 with a dead hybrid battery

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Bunce, Jan 5, 2018.

  1. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Wait! This engine has VVT?! I had no idea!
     
  2. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    Well the bloody misfire on cylinder 1 is back. I know why, it's because I drove off as soon as I started the car. If I stay still until the rattley engine subsides it's usually fine. If I drive off, it triggers a code, so I don't think this is normal.
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    bad head gasket?
     
  4. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    No oil in water or vice-versa. But why would that cause a rattley sound for about 1 minute at warmup?
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    danlatu says it is because the engine is burning off the coolant leaked into the cylinders.
     
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    That won't cause the rattlely sound. I already told you back in page 8-post #159 why it makes the rattle/clickity-click and it is not a defect. It is supposed to do that.

    If you drive off gently in stage 1 so you are only using the HV battery/electric motor, does it still misfire?
     
  7. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    Nope only if the engine is used.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    can you post a recording of the sound?
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    So are the misfires so frequent that the MIL comes on?
     
  10. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    Is MIL the same as the CEL? If so, yes.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Yes, that's it MIL is what Toyota calls – malfunction indicator light.

    One last question, if you start the car from cold, and let it complete stage 1 while sitting still, that is, until the engine shuts off, then drive off on the petrol engine, does it still mis-fire on 1 & 3?
     
  12. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    No, if I wait, it's good.
    Weird huh? But if I stop, turn it off, just for a few minutes, I'll still to wait for it to do that warm up cycle or I'll get MIL.
     
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Yes, that is strange. If the car is warm, it virtually skips stage 1. Are you saying yours doesn't and always runs for 50 secs?
     
  14. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    No. Without knowing much there's 2 scenarios.

    Turn car on and drive off, this almost guarantees an MIL will pop up on that journey shortly after starting.

    Turn car on, sit and wait for engine to do it's thing then turn stop, I then drive off, usually no MILs for entire journey.

    The disadvantage I have is I don't drive it regularly, like a commuter would. I live about 1.5 miles from college and walk most of the time. Taking the Prius is pointless since it won't warm up in time. So, I try and do a test loop on the same route when I'm looking for something.
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    When the new injector comes for cylinder 3, move number 1 to number 2. See if the misfire moves. If it passes, then move the coil over

    These refurbished injectors could be an issue
     
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  16. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    Does anyone know how long it takes the engine to go into closed loop?

    I have heard of cars having vacuum leaks when the engine is cold and when they warm up the leak gets sealed due to expansion from heat.
     
  17. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    I would try a new injector, not refurb. It's more runaround than it's worth with another un-known.
     
  18. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    I haven't got the new(refurbed) injector in yet, too cold and rainy.
    But I have been thinking, I'm thinking the rough running engine on warmup might have something to do with the ecu software. Was there ever any software updates or anything of the sort?
    What's the latest ecu that would work in my 2005, if I can find one cheap, I might try it and see what happens. The roughness just seems to happen on a particular cycle of the warmup.
     
  19. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    The ECU on cars goes from what is called "open loop" until the car reaches a certain temperature is reached and then it goes into what is called "closed loop" when the engine reaches a certain temperature. When in open loop a lot of inputs to the ECU are not used, it just runs it's program and when it goes into closed loop it starts taking inputs from the O2 sensors and other inputs to adjust fuel trims to optimize fuel delivery for pollution and economy. It will stay in closed loop as long as the car is turned on ( Ready), as soon as the engine cools the engine will restart because it will always try to keep from polluting and will always try to keep the fuel to air ratio at 14.7 to one. If you has a scanner that reads out live data or maybe Torque Pro will show the Open Loop and closed Loop readouts. If you are watching it and it smoothes out at the switch I would guess that is what it is.
    This is the short answer, go on YouTube and type in open and closed loop.
     
  20. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    I post with promising news. I installed the refurbed injector in Cyl. 3. Disconnected the battery to reset the witch box, held my breath and started it up. It sounded Horrible with a capitol H. I figured it may be because there was no fuel in cylinder 3 for a second. I turned the engine off, disconnected the -ive again and restarted. It sounds good! I killed it and restarted a few times, still good. I just got back from a 116 mile drive @ over 45 mpg and no error codes.
    The test will be tomorrow morning, starting from cold, that's when it was at its worst. Fingers crossed.
     
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