2007 Prius wont start, no response, new 12 v installed.

I'll go ahead and state the obvious, based on 30+ years of wire biter experience.. Strong, unusual (acrid) smells immediately prior to a car dying are a pretty good symptom of some type of electrical failure. Now, troubleshooting an electrical failure without actually being there to put your own hands and own meter on it is a tough row to hoe.

 

Possibly the smell of ozone built from nitrogen oxide when the catalyst isn't hot enough.

 

And what reading did you get? Does it change when you try to put the car in Ready mode or stay the same?

 

fine, doesn't your meter have that reading?

 

I meant not to check the fuse itself.
I mean to measure the voltages between a fuse and ground. For most (maybe all) active circuits there should be values of 13.8 V if car is on or at least 11 V if not.
Uncommon values or zero could indicate a problem in the tested circuit.

If you want to spend the time: The manual offers in it's over 5000 pages several diagnostic informations in each chapter including voltages or resistances at different connectors. But this would be much work.

And turn signals need the car to be on. My mistake! But warning lights should work.

 

Here's a schematic of a 2007 turn signal circuit. If you can't make it out, just send me your email through the 'start a conversation' button and I'll send you the file so you can enlarge it.

 

Every OBD2-Reader should reply saved error codes. There is a standard.
But maybe only the Toyota Intelligent Tester will translate the code into its description. Otherwise one has to search the web for the problem behind the code.

 

i have read that the sub codes are the issue, because of the number of computers?

 

Okay. I didn't knew that!
I'm owning a cheep OBD-Bluetooth interface, that can read very much informations from CAN-BUS.
But now I have to check its possibilities for reading error codes, too. But happily I've never had any problems with my Prius. I hope that won't change too soon!

 

12.68 should be good, so at least we know the connection from the 12V to ground is nothing to worry about. I am curious to see if it changes at all when you push the power button. If it does not, I would suspect the ignition switch or brake safety switch may be bad.

 

I hope this doesn't turn into a big LOL, but in a way I do. Check your SKS button. MY car does the same exact thing with lights/turn signals etc if I deactivate the sks. If that doesn't change anything, try putting the fob into the slot and see if it makes a difference.

The only thing I noticed different is that I'll have a red car/key flashing on my display (the Immobilizer/theft deterrent indicator light), but I can't see that in your video. If I try to start the car without the key present, the big yellow key warning light comes on (smart key system warning light). If I deactivate the SKS, no sks light turns on when attempting to start the car with no key present.

Ooops, just reread the first post. Already tried the fob/slot thing.

Wonder if something in the "fob recognition circuit" (what ever that entails) failed/smoked. The car seems to do everything it should do when no key is present, but doesn't know when the key is actually there. And the immobilizer/theft flashing light that seems to be missing. Definitely sounds like a loss of power somewhere in that area.

 

After watching your video... I would try to unconnect the power button, measure the voltages at the connections (LED connectors green and red to white-black (ground) should have a value, switch connectors black and yellow to ground not) and replace the switch for testing with a piece of wire:

After removing the switch one should connect the black or the yellow wire of the connector or both to ground for ACC or ON. (p. 4767 in manual)

 

Do you get the flashing immobilizer light on the dash? have you ever had it? It's a small red car shape with a black key outline inside. Mine normally blinks every few seconds when the car is not in 'ready' state.

 

Are the fob cases original?

 

I don't think, it's the FOB.
(BTW What does "FOB" mean? I'm German and can't find anything about this abbreviation.)
Without a proper FOB there should be the key warning light and I think some beep, when pushing the power button for starting the car.

 

A fob, commonly called a key fob, is a small security hardwaredevice with built-in authentication used to control and secure access to network services and data. The key fob displays a randomly generated access code, which changes periodically, usually every 30 to 60 seconds. A user first authenticates themselves on the key fob with a personal identification number (PIN), followed by the current code displayed on the device.

History of the Phrase
Key fob is also a word used to describe a key chain and several other similar items and devices. The word fob is believed to have originated from watch fobs, which existed as early as 1888. The fob refers to an ornament attached to a pocket-watch chain. Key chains, remote car starters, garage door openers, and keyless entry devices on hotel room doors are also called fobs, or key fobs.

 

We're working along the same lines I believe. If the immobilizer warning light was previously working, but isn't now, it's one more thing pointing to a loss of power in that area. If it wasn't flashing previously (due to led failure or something) then I didn't want to assume. Also, you are correct, there will be a "ding" chime if the power button is pressed with no key present, and the yellow key warning symbol will light up, except for when the sks is deactivated (there will be no 'ding' and no key warning light, but the immobilizer light should still flash).