2012 prius engine replacement

Good call.

Do you have Torque Pro or a code reader that can identify what blocks are suspect?

While cleaning the fan might help, did you hear the fan running in the back prior?

I’m suspecting no and there is a block that is out .

Good luck tomorrow .

 

+1

 

If you get Torque Pro, you can watch the blocks while your Prius is running .

Might help in the identification process.

Not sure what you want the next steps to be if a block or two in the hv battery is failed (replace the cells, buy a rebuilt battery, buy a new battery, assemble new cells into your hv battery case, etc), but search around here for some background to help your next steps.

Keep us posted .

 

There’s a filter behind the plastic, worth pulling based on surface condition .

I would dig deeper and get to the fan itself. Ensuring this circuit is clean will rule out this potential for your battery code.

Good luck .

 

There are plenty of failed hv battery threads here (mostly for Gen2’s but the underlying message is the same).

I bought the Prolong setup and have used it successfully on our 2010 with 168 k miles.

A setup to consider if you go down the “whack-a-mole” approach.

Happy reading .

 

If the fan intake grill is that grubby, it's an indication the fan has been running a lot and/or at higher speeds. There's likely a fair bit of the same stuff on the fan fins.

 

I don’t have android technology (I use an iPhone) so I can’t help.

A good member here to help you with not only Torque Pro but also with your next steps in hv battery decisions is @ericbecky .

He’s helped many members make decisions on what factors to consider for each individuals circumstances.

I’d PM (private message) him and see what he has to say .

Good luck .

 

ACP! Keep at it my friend. Your almost there. I have found that whenever I start a project, it always entails more than what I thought. My guess is it is a combination of your battery sitting for 6 months (since it isn't brand new) and the fan as you stated. Your computer is smart. Your computer knows some things have been changed and is trying to figure out what was changed. This is why sometimes when you get your car fixed at the dealer, they have to reset the computer so it knows to "start over" in its daily diagnostics. What I am trying to say is your computer needs to be "taught" about the changes. This may involve reseting it a few times, or, a major reset of some type. Don't give up! When your done, you can say, "I did it"!!

 

Well we now know where the party is.

If you have an iPhone, pretty sure the OBD fusion app will allow for monitoring the individual battery blocks.

It’s $9.99 in the App Store, so not a bad investment . This will allow for monitoring (might be able to clear codes, but not sure as I haven’t had any hybrid codes to clear). I have Dash Command and it works well for normal code identification and clearing.

What you really need is Techstream. You can buy a J2534 OBD dongle off of Amazon for ~$20 and an old laptop. Then you’re ready for battle.

After the cleaning, did the code clear, or is it still there?

Keep us posted .

 

How fast were the bars cycling?

Where were the bars when you started out? Did the battery drain fast once full?

I’m glad you and Eric were able to connect. He’s a respected member who does this for a living.

Keep us posted .

 

I know Torque Pro is recommended (particularly by Eric).

I would pay the additional $7 and give it a whirl.

The information you get will go a long way toward resolution, if not this time, some time in the future.