Tried installing the OCC... no room!...

That seems logical to me.

 

The OCC prevents the PCV system's engine oil from being burned inside the engine and prevents a pool of engine oil in the intake manifold from causing the startup death rattle. Another feature is this: you can monitor the amounts of blow-by and guess at the state of the PCV valve itself. If it's stuck open you will surely get a bunch more oil in your catch can. So it prevents a problem with the PCV system cascading into a problem with engine oil burning (from coked rings).

 

I think this guy might have clogging PCV valve. I'm out of my depth, but am thinking if the PCV valve is clogged, then the other PCV related hose, going from valve cover to air intake, starts dumping oil mist on the engine air cleaner??

Lag in engine response | PriusChat

And I know there's oil mist there, due to forgetting to replace the oil filler cap one time, with a previous vehicle.

 

Right, if the PCV valve were to fail closed (gets clogged) the blow-by will enter into the intake snorkel and foul the MAF and top of the throttle plate. If an OCC were installed it'd stop filling with the blow-by liquids.

This would eventually lead to a sticking throttle plate - just what the OP in that thread experienced.

Pixel XL ?

 

I haven't had even a hint of the "startup shake" after installing the OCC! I have about 100K miles on the car. The OCC catches about 2 oz of liquid about every 2 weeks, and some brown semi-solid gunk that settles to the bottom of the OCC. I drive about 300 miles/week and installed the OCC about 90 days ago. I feel much "cleaner" now that it has been proven to work and can possibly help prevent a head gasket failure.

 

I’m still waiting to look inside resorvoir at 10k
No rattle problem solved
Don’t overlook EGR COOLER AND ROUTING!
I just junk yard dogged it but it works. $10 experiment but heading to 195k!

 

Rattle problem solved? With intake manifold cleaning, egr system cleaning and occ?

 

Is that still that Prius with the top gasket job "we" did last time? looks clean

 

Are you saying the known cold start rattle problem a lot of prii owners ha e complained about, has being solved by what you've just done?

Were you having the problem before, or you just decided to clean it Engr cooler up, and installed the occ?

 

That's what I wanted to know, the statement is a little confusing.

The interior and engine bay a very clean. The wheel wells and tires are muddy from a quadcopter race today. It was on some backroads with muddy pot holes.

 

Some photos of an OCC install. This installation locates the OCC off the lower cross member, but, does not require drilling holes and locates the drain valve next to the engine drain plug.


Parts used for the installation. Used J-B Weld epoxy to install the support angle.



Angle after applying the epoxy.



Covered the angle with a piece of flat bar.



Let it set-up over night. Used a wood spacer and the weight of a brick to keep pressure on the parts.



Bracket assembled to the epoxy bonded support angle.


Hoses prior to the manifold being installed. One hose was 9" long, the other 13".



Was able to route the hoses without touching anything else. Not much room to work with.



View of the bottom prior to installing the extended drain hose.


Completed installation. The excess hose length left over from kit worked perfect without trimming it down. Used a simple wire support on the valve end and tied it off on a bracket above.

 

One concern: if you use the front/central jacking point, which is the underside of that beam, it may pop the adhesive. I'm not sure. Keep an eye on it, and listen if/when you're doing that, any unusual sounds. If your adhesive is thick and has a little flex it might be ok, not sure. Or it might be solid it enough that it all flexes in unison.

I started out with a solidly bolted bracket, and the next time I raised the front end, could here something creaking. I redid the connection so there's rubber washers in between my slotted angle bracket and the top of beam, and the hold down bolts have double nuts, the first one installed finger-tight, and the second torqued against the first.

Yet another tack might be to use a pair of those stainless steel airplane clamps around the whole beam, and again put some rubber spacers of some sort, to allow the beam to flex.

 

Good point. I did need to lower it off the jack so it has seen one jack cycle.

Properties of adhesives vary a lot. In my day job, I design large metal assemblies held together with adhesives. Those adhesives would be better ones to use, but, they are not off the shelf.

The J-B Weld epoxy was less expensive compared to other brands. I used the full package during the install. The other brands would have needed 3 to 4 packages to cover the same area.

One other factor is the large surface area available for bonding. If conservatively it is assumed the size of the flat bar was the area bonded, then 1.5 in wide x 6 in long = 9 in^2. The rated tensile strength of J-B Weld is 3960 psi. With this surface area, that is 35,640 lbs.

Tensile is only one property. Shear strength, fatigue, edge peel are others.

This will be easy enough to monitor sense it is visible from the top. Even if it failed, it would fail safe since the inlet and outlet lines are so short.

 

I see on this thread both plastic and metal OCCs. Does anyone know what interior pressures an OCC would have to resist when used on a Gen III Prius like this?
I ask because I would like to use clear plastic of some type for the OCC in order to be able to visually inspect the level of oil in the catch can simply by looking at it during the routine check of all fluid levels each week.

 

Morosso makes one where the screw-on portion at the bottom is some sort of clear acrylic bottom. Or it might have been Jegs:

JEGS Performance Products 52205: Air Oil Separator 4-1/2" Tall x 1-3/4" Diameter (NOT including fittings) | JEGS

Here's a Morosso small-body one:

Moroso 85682: SEPARATOR AIR OIL SMALL BD UNIV. CLR BOT | JEGS

 

There should be no positive pressure unless the engine backfires. Instead, partial vacuum about the same as in intake manifold.

 

Hoses are typically the weak link? I'd be inclined to go with the black rubber SAE30R6 (or 7), but don't really know that much about it, just that SAE30R7 is what came with my Morosso.

 

Hoses just need to be oil-resistant and stiff enough not to collapse under vacuum.

 

I used this and pretty happy with the side wall thickness that'll prevent it from collapsing and got it from Amazon.

 

No rattle...
Problem was solved.
Was initially typed poorly. Yes it did rattled at start up.
At 196k still no rattle at start up!
Be sure and Do all work at once! Keep it simple!
Seems some are trying to overthink it and complicate things...