My low tire pressure light is on and the owner's manual's description on how to do it shows a control which is not on my car.
The button is really deep under there. Did you look with a light? BTW, you have added air, resolved the issue? I know: stupid question.
Yup, just add air. As Mendel says, it's way under the dash. Put your head on the floor and look up, near the steering column.
You can not extinguish the light by adding air if the "normal" front and rear pressures are different......AND the tires were rotated without doing the reset.
Whenever the Low Tire Press light comes on, the first thing to do is check the tire pressures with a gauge to see why it came on. If one tire is low, then filling it up should extinguish the light. The "button" talked about is for re-setting the calibration point. Only do this when all tires are at your desired inflation, then press and hold the button until it starts flashing. Car has to be in Ready mode, I believe.
I had bad TPMS on one wheel. I purchased TPMS sensors form Fleebay and had local Discount Tires replace it using their tool to identify faulty one.
I purchased two for $16/each. Discount Tire has a scanner that can detect bad TPMS signals for replacement. Also required programming for replacement TPMS. I considered replacing all four but the replacements sensors were used as well so I just had faulty replaced. I think the new TPMS unit costs around ~$150 a pop.
About $52 (plus shipping) here: Tire Pressure Monitor Components for 2006 Toyota Prius | Toyota Parts Plus around $5 for seal kit: 04423-0E010 Not cheap, for sure.
If I'm not mistaken, while you can order the seal kit separately, you don't need to if you order the transmitter, which includes it. I haven't experienced that, I think because the "normal" front/rear difference is just 2 psi, and the threshold for lighting the warning is already way more than 2 psi low. In fact, after my first rotation or two, I've plumb given up on doing any kind of TPMS reset when I rotate. I just filled all four tires to max sidewall once, pressed the button to save that, then let the pressures back down to what I normally run (with the normal 2 psi difference). That gives me about the earliest warning I can get (though still later than I'd like), and eliminates a bunch of fuss at rotation time. Now, I have noticed, twice now, that I can correct all the tire pressures and the light still takes a lot longer to go out than I expect. The first time I noticed that, it seemed that I could hurry the process by doing a Techstream "signal check" on the TPMS (though, possibly, I just happened to do that around the same time the light felt like going out anyway). Added air again recently, decided not to bother with Techstream and just wait a while to see what happened, and the light did go out on its own, some time the following day. Maybe it has an algorithm that tries to ignore brief fluctuations, and I'm just not patient enough. -Chap
