Brake Service Dealership or Non Dealership

@Mendel Leisk , what do you think? You know the brake details.

 

The official way to bleed the brakes uses the techstream software, it is one of the few repairs I would recommend the dealer do.

 

There is an official way to change the brake fluid, without techstream; I'll post an attachment from the Repair Manual, plus the brake inspection, pad change. It might be if you're doing something like master cylinder replacement or overhaul, then you must have Techstream, not sure.

For regular brake fluid replacement, @NutzAboutBolts video (in maintenance sub-forum, pinned at top) on brake fluid change, it's invaluable. It's not that hard, within scope of DIY. You just have to be careful to put the car in "invalid mode" at the outset. My wife and I bumbled through it, in maybe an hour. The only comments I'd add:

1. The bleed sequence in Repair Manual (per attachment) is front/right, front/left, rear/left and rear/right. They do it a bit different in the video, all works out the same.

2. They use motorized suction in the video, but it's not mandatory: a syringe with thin tube extension is all you need for basting fluid out of the reservoir, and for the caliper bleed bolts you just need to run tubing to some catch jar. It IS handy to have the correct attachment for pushing the hose onto the bleed bolt, to make it stay on there.

3. You'll need about 2 pints of DOT 3 (Toyota has some, likely your best bet for 100% compatibity). Use up about one pint on the front, between basting out the reservoir and refilling, and bleeding the front two calipers. Then use most of the second pint on the rears, which are easier, due to motorized pump. Try to end up with a little in reserve, for top up a day or two later.

4. Note fluid level in the reservoir at the outset. The level will sometimes drop, from before you open drivers door, to after (opening driver's door activates a pump, drops level a bit). Note both levels, and aim to finish up with the level per the lower level, when you're done. Again, hold a little in reserve, for fine tuning as needed, a day or two later. If you still have some left, I would recycle it with some waste engine oil: once the bottle is open, you don't want to store it for long, and kind of pointless.

5. Pay special attention to the technique for bleeding the front brakes, in the video. It's old-school, and tricky. Better to close the bleed bolt too soon than too late. Just repeat a bunch of times, quick open/close.

When doing brake pad change the fronts are pretty much conventional. On the rear, you have to pay a little attention: ensure the piston orientation is per the attachment, and is well seated in that orientation before parking brake is applied. Also, it's safest to disconnect 12 volt neg cable at the outset, leave it off until done.

An independent mechanic could do all this, if he/she is conscientious, reads through the attachments, watches that video. If it's someone who brushes over your concerns, says they know better, I'd have second thoughts though.

 

So is the dealership charging $300 for just the parts, and is that front and rear, or front only? And what's "etc", is that rotors (which likely aren't needed). Or is that parts and labour? And what is "believe": you have a vague recollection, you do remember, you have something in writing? Ok, I'll shut up on that, lol. Do clarify: what they've quoted, and for what specifically.

Regarding "good pads etc", likely the kosher Toyota pads are your best bet.

 

how many miles on her?

 

Unless you're feeling pulsation, I would waive the machining (of rotors). It's not needed, costing you, and just thinning the rotor.

$200 would be reasonable, to just install new pads/shims, and lube the caliper pins. The parts, pads and shims, are about $100. You could waive the replacement shims too, if the current ones are in good shape.

And I need to apologize, for being snippy.

 

Well, the less they're machined the better. The Repair Manual, and old-school, would be to check rotor against spec's with a dial indicator and micrometer. You can DIY that very easily, with an outlay of $40~50. You get a dial indicator with magnetic base, mount it on the shock column, finagle the arms and elbows so the dial gauge presses on the rotor, then rotate the rotor, watch how much deflection there is, compare to spec. With the micrometer you just take spot measurements of thickness, around the circumference, compare with spec, both for being above min thickness and not having variation more than spec.

Doing that occasionally, I've NEVER seen a rotor out of spec. And yet: the dealerships try to sell you on machining, with every visit. I'd suspect because it's quicker than checking.

Bottom line, if you're not noticing any odd pulsation when braking, there's no need to do anything to the rotors. The thinner the rotor is, the more prone it is to crack, and the more it'll heat up, less mass.

 

The other reason for machining, I think: it's impressive, looks like something significant was accomplished, worth paying extra.

 

at 90k, maybe just replace the discs. what the price diff?

 

You can turn the rotors if it’s the first time. There’s a minimum thickness spec stamped on the rotor. You can use a micrometer gauge to check the thickness of the rotors. Like @Mendel Leisk said, a dial indicator can measure the run out for the rotor to make sure if it needs to turn or not. Usually if you do it at the dealership, they recommend it. I would also recommend it since I’ve replaced only pads before and then had to turn the rotors later on because it was pulsating when I step on the brakes.

As for the brake flush, I recommend you doing it yourself if you’re mechanically capable. It’s not hard and require not a lot of tools. You can check our YouTube video for tutorial on it. GL

 

for the amount that they charge you to do the flush, you could buy your own tools and do it yourself and save $. All you need are jack & jack stands, 8 and 10mm wrench, and 2 bottles of Dot 3 brake fluid.

Here's the video to help you if you need

 

You would be ok if you have basic tools, a concrete slab, floor jack and four safety stands. With that and a bit of tubing and a syringe of some sort, and some sort of catch bottle (Kirkland mayo jar, in my case), you're set:



@NutzAboutBolts gave me the pep talk, I went for it, worked out fine. Watched the video a number of times, really helps you see how it goes, hands on, that it's doable.

 

One of these is really handy, really the only brake bleed specific item, something you can get at automotive stores. I borrowed mine from my Mighty-Vac kit, which I didn't need, lol:

 

So, any competent mechanic can get the parts and tools needed, competent.

The chances of the Toyota mechanic being competent are 50-50, if you have someone you know is competent, great, lucky you, you pays yer monies, your takes yer chances.

The Toyota dealership will stand behind the work, chances are the mechanic will have done a hundred of them already, an independent will be doing it for the first time, it’s not a 67 Chevy, it’s a walking talking computer.