Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Or local automotive retailer, likely best deals, and automotive specific product:

 

The only reason to drain the coolant in conjunction with an EGR cleaniing is to avoid spillage when removing EGR components, unless the coolant change is due according to the maintenance schedule anyway. What I did was drain just a couple of liters of engine coolant, into a clean container, when removing the EGR cooler, then poured it back into the reservoir after.

The inverter coolant is completely separate btw, and the maintenance interval for that on the US schedule is about 50% further down the road.

 

Mine is due for sure. I am on 196K miles. I just bought 3 gallons of Toyota coolant.
So what I understand from your post that inverter coolant has nothing to do with EGR cleaning.
So it's better than to drain the engine coolant and clean all EGR components then refill the engine coolant. I saw the video from Nutz and bolts which is great tutorial but he didn't mention at the end how to put the car back from Maintenance to normal mode. I need to know that part.
I will buy the cable from Automotive store.

 

That sounds like a plan.

I would just do that inverter circuit another day, you will have your hands full.

 

Monitor coolant level. Be sure no coolant missing in reservoir tank. My car consumed about 1 qt of coolant every 100 miles when gasket blown. I was very close to loosing the engine.

 

I attempted to look at my throttle body this morning, due to another rough start when engine was cold yesterday. For the life of me I could not get the big fat rubber tube off the throttle body opening. What the hell!! is it glued to the throttle body? However, I was able to look down into the throttle (forcing the fat tubing straight) and there was no oil. I even moved the butterfly and still no oil. Guess I should be happy about that. But I am concerned about the rough idling at start up. It seems to happen once a week when cold. It is not a real car shaking idle, but it is rougher than normal and seems to smooth out within a few seconds. Remember back in the day when one would "flood" the carburetor with gas and the first start up was rough and then it would smooth out? This is a similar thing I am getting. Any ideas as to my next move is welcome. As soon as my cash flow allows me, I will be off to Hybridpit to have them diagnose my baby.

 

The clamp on the throttle body is a PITA for sure. Probably worse than dealing with the EGR cooler. Be careful, channel locks will send it shooting into outer space.

Pixel XL ?

 

Were you able to get the clamp off at the hose connection to throttle body? It is tricky: it's a good design, when you pinch it's tangs just right it locks in the loosened-off mode. But getting the "just right" can get tricky, for me it's invariably 5 minutes with an extended-reach, 45 degree offset needle-nose pliers. I think similar but broader jaw pliers would actually work better, be more stable. The tangs have to be oriented just right to lock, and with needle nose the tangs keep dancing around too much.

If it's not the clamp, just the rubber itself gluing on, I'd suggest to put a broad bladed screwdriver under the bottom edge of the hose and push up, at a few points.

Also, put match-marks on the hose and throttle body barrel, to help with alignment when reinstalling.

With that hose off, and pushing the throttle body blade to open, you get a decent view. For a much better view, remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts and pull the throttle body right off. Leave it's 2 coolant hoses connected, they have lots of play.

Torque spec for those nuts/bolts is 7 ft/lb. I've had ours off a couple of times now, the gasket was fine to re-use.

I'm sceptical that you don't have oil under the throttle body, suspect you just didn't have a clear enough view, looking through the tube and all. Oil collection is almost inevitable I think.

 

I will try again this weekend. I thought I would give it a try with a couple of hours to spare. I saw the clamp with the special tangs, got it to "click" in the open position, just wasn't able to to get it off. This weekend (Sunday), I have my own "special tools for those hard to remove items" that I will use to attack it. That, and a nasty attitude will get it off. I agree, most likely oil below throttle that I couldn't see. Will cleaning out the oil in the throttle throat do the trick or do I need to dismantle the intake maniford, the head, head gasket, remove motor, re-align brain..........etc? Mileage is only 28,000k on car.

 

Yeah any time a hose is fighting me I push firmly on it's edge, as opposed to pulling on it. Seems to me that's compressing it, slightly increasing it's inside diameter, and for sure breaking the bond, at least locally at that point on the edge. Just pulling tensions it, maybe reduces it's inside diameter, and stresses it more.

Just removing intake manifold is enough, lol. To really do it right I think you need to eliminate the source of the oil. That seems to be coming from two places:

1. The hose inlet coming from the PCV valve, and I think this is where the vast majority is coming from. An effective oil catch can along that hose will stop reoccurrence there.

2. The intake ports? After cleaning the intake manifold, I removed it a second time, a few weeks later, and saw fresh oil drips, not much, at the base of each intake port. Not sure what you can do about that.

 

Even though the OCC installation likely improves emissions, and you install a non-vented OCC, it’s still a modification of a vehicle emissions system and possibly not California smog legal. If your installation remains under the intake manifold, it will likely be undetected forever. I really doubt you could face a fine, but there you have it.

 

Good point. And yeah: I can hardly see mine, it being under the intake manifold. Just popping the hood and looking things over, it all looks stock. A matt-black OCC would be even better in that regard (mine is shiny metal).

 

Plasti-dip your OCC? LOL

 

If your worried about smog. I'm in San Ramon, CA. I can smog it no problem just PM me. Air intake OCC no problem just as long as the check engine light ain't on !

 

I’ll look you up in December .

 

Perhaps another meetup candidate?

 

The possibilities are there.

 

Is that official policy in California? I’m not an expert on these things at all.

 

I think @Joele3 was just trying to give a helping connection tip if you cant find the RIGHT smog place if car wont pass smog

 

@danlatu i just wonder where is that pcv valve mounted on the gen4. I think by 2016 toyota already got the idea that their engineers didnt do it right.