I like that Boom Boom Pow!

I need guidance please.

Finally finished my 1st car audio install and loved hear wife complain that I was rattling dishes inside our house. That little amp and 2 Subs surpassed all of my expectations and beyond. I drove around for about 30 minutes with base slamming wow grinning from ear-to-ear and then subs quit.

I pulled into O'Reilly Auto Parts parking lot that was 1/4 mile nearby put my hand on the amp expecting it to be overheated and it was not even warm. The blue Power indicator light was off.

I then checked the 60w power fuse from amp kit mounted near battery and it was perfectly fine.
I then checked interior and exterior fuses. Did not find any fuses blown there either but there are a lot of fuses and I did not pull every single fuse.

Got back in the car pressed start button and got key lock code transmission warning seed dealership flashing Triangle exclamation with check engine light.
O'Reilly's salesman came out and performed a battery diagnostic. 325 cold cranking amps on OEM battery tested good but read "needed to be charged up."

By the way O'Reilly's refused to use their jump pack to help me out because they consider jumping off hybrid vehicles to be a liability.

After maybe 45 minutes to an hour of not being able to start Prius finally starts back up. P lock code goes away but while driving home messages say bring vehicle to dealership still maintain check engine light exclamation in yellow triangle.

Car is running fine now but amp light does not turn on and I do not want to damage my vehicle.

A few guys have suggested that I install a separate secondary battery to help power the 600 watts being pulled from Amp.

I'm reading so much conflicting advice that I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting in a pro shop but hate to give up being so close to a complete install done on my own.

Any advice, pics or links are very much appreciated.

2013 Toyota Prius 2
I retained the stock OEM Panasonic CD Player and used an X Scorpion LCO12.2R Line out converter with auto remote amp turn on.

✔️1x PowerBass XL-605DM Monoblock Power Sport Amplifier 600 Watt High Efficiency Class D Design 1-OHM Stable Mono Block Specifications: (VERY SMALL SIZE/FOOTPRINT) Height: 1.63" Width: 4.5" Depth: 8.4"
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 250 watts x 1
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 400 watts x 1
✔️Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 600 watts x 1 Channels (mono): 1


&


✔️2x Memphis 10" 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers Wired up like this.

✔️1x QPower Dual 10-Inch Vented Box

Also Installed
Front Doors ✔️2x 6"x9" 3-way 150 watts RMS speakers. Rear Doors ✔️2x Kicker 41KSC654 6.5" 2-Way 100 watts RMS
GTMAT Pro 50mil Sound Deadener Material. 4 Door Kit Package Includes:24sqft Four Door Kit. 8 sheets of 12"x36" (I later helped a friend soumd dampen his truck. He bought the NVX brand and it is better in quality and easier to work with.)

 

Been working so much haven't had much time to troubleshoot. Sounding like I need more power than the OEM battery to push 600 watts. I want it to hit as hard as possible but don't want to fry my car during my learning process. With no alternator I'm trying to find links and pics to properly wire up a secondary battery within the loop to where it is properly fused also gets recharged as needed. Trying to find the correct size and type of battery. Then challange of installing another battery to also look decent.

I'm also looking into how to get amp blue power light back on. No fuses are blown that I can find so I think amp went into protect mode. Don't see a reset on amp.

Also wondering for the time being instead of the current 600w mono configuration if I should reduce the speaker wiring configuration to
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 250 watts x 1
or
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 400 watts x 1

Could have put all this in my 2013 Camry but that's surrendering and being an old fart @ 43 this is a challenge Im looking forward to eventually figure out.

Thanks for tips

 

I agree. What do you suggest to resolve this issue?

 

I'm about to sit down and take notes from all 3 of these videos made by a hybrid owner who states he could not find any solid information online. I hope this thread ends up with some solid information that helps guide other novices like myself in the future.

Part 1
Lexus RX Hybrid Car No Alternator Vs SPL Competition Level Sound Systems Bass Amplifier Audio

Part 2
Lexus RX After Market Stereo No Alternator - Onboxing Optima Battery Charger Terminals

Part 3
Amp and Battery Duo Rack Build Three Optima Yellow Beat Sonic Rx82 Dash Kit Install

 

I'm seeing many successful Subwoofer and Amp installs done on YouTube but no details into how the amps are being powered.

UFC Fighter Alan Jouban's CT Sounds Prius Car Stereo System with a CT Sounds
M 750.1 AMPLIFIER
RATINGS:

• 1Ω @ 12.8V, 750W (RMS) | 1500W (MAX)
• 2Ω @ 12.8V, 600W (RMS) | 1200W (MAX)
• 4Ω @ 12.8V, 350W (RMS) | 700W (MAX)

One posted comment in the above video states...

"as far as i understand there is no alternator. This one is a gen 2 prius. I have upgraded a stereo in a 2010 and a 2012. both times it was approximately 1000W system. My current system is 2 Memphis amps, running 2 10" subs @ 4ohms, and 4 cheapo 6.25" sony's in the doors. It sounds awesome. no change in gas mpg, and no issue with electrical. i also added aftermarket heated seats and lighting. there are no issues so far after a year. the car is great to work on."

 

Any luck finding new informative information?