1nz-fe Cam Swap

At least drop a couple NOS tanks in the car so that when you do blow the engine (living your life 10 seconds or less at a time), you'll get to experience the floor falling out and your laptop flashing "DANGER TO MANIFOLD"!

And then you can have the world's first Prius with a built engine.

 

Hello Jesus, I'm curious if you had any updates since July!
I have been thinking of getting rid of my car just due to the lack of power and what you did gave me hope!
Is the engine still running okay?
Any updates from the shunt capacitor modification? or the inverter voltage increase?

Did the intake cam go easy, are any things to worry about the swap? Do I need anything else other than a 1NZ-FE cam?

 

Did you ever find an ODB cable for use with Techstream?

If you can find one of those three dollar ($3) Elm237 bluetooth adapters (and a copy or Torque) you can manually increase the fan speed, which should help all around -boosted or not.

If you can't locate one I would be happy to buy one and have it shipped to you.

 

Been a few months (and a new year), anything else worth sharing?

 

I highly respect your investigative work!

 

Great thread. I've read up a little on the differences between the 1NZFE and the 1NZFXE and it appears cam timing is the main difference. I wonder if anyone has swapped the entire engine: installed the 1NZFE into a prius. My engine is quite worn out, drinks about a quart of oil every 300 miles. If I need to put a newer or rebuilt engine in it, just wondering if it would be worth my while to drop in the Echo engine.

 

I’m also interested in this and I’ve been very curious why nobody hasn’t done this yet!

I’m saying this because it makes sense to swap for an Echo engine since it’s the same motor running Otto cycle!
FYI the Prius motor has different pistons to achieve higher compression which could be a bit dangerous (risk of having detonation) if you use the Echo cam but using the entire Echo engine should be safe since it has been tuned to be working with 87 octane gas.

What I don’t know is
1) If the engine harness/sensors are the same or not
2) How well the Echo engine will perform if the Echo ECU doesn’t get transferred and it’s basically working on the (“simulated” Atkinson cycle) Prius ECU

 

A couple of commentors on this thread mentioned the pistons and rings. I went to an on-line Toyota parts resource and found that the Yaris, Echo and Prius all used the same pistons, rings and crankshaft. The engine block shows a different part number, as well as (expected) the cam shafts. So the increase in compression shouldn't effect the mechanical components. I do wonder, however, if the motor/gen that starts the engine has to work a little harder to crank it.

 

Okay, I found an engine with 100K miles on it at a great price. I ordered it, on it's way. This will solve my excessive oil consumption problem. Then, imI going to follow your lead, I already have a Yaris intake cam ready to go in when the "new" engine arrives. This will solve my lack of power on long upgrades problem (I hope). I'll be sure to share my results on this forum.

 

When the Prius set a land speed record, they used an entire Echo engine, not just the cams.

Got Hybrid?

 

Interesting. From what I found by looking at part numbers, most of the components are the same. However, the engine block has a different part number. I wonder what the difference is.

 

I seem to recall that the Prius block has the bores centered over the power stroke, while the Otto block has them centered over the bearings.

 

From all that i've read, easiest would be to do just a full 1NZ-FE head swap but all you need to swap is the exhaust cam to really raise your static compression. I looked this up a while back before i looked at my turbo kit. Here are the differences and similarities.

List of Different Parts:

• Crankshaft:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13401-21020
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13401-21040
• Cam 1:
  • 1NZ-FE:13502-21031
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13502-21021
• Cam 2:
  • 1NZ-FE:13501-21030
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13501-2106
• Cam Gear:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13050-21041
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13050-21051
• Rings:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13011-21041
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13011-21100
• Pistons:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13101-21070
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13101-21110
• Valve Springs:
  • 1NZ-FE: 90905-01049
  • 1NZ-FXE: 90501-23135

List of parts that ARE the same...

• Sprocket:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13050-21041
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13050-21041
• Timing Chain:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13506-21050
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13506-21050
• Rods:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13201-29735
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13201-29735
• Bearings: all three SAME
  • 13041-21022-01
  • 13041-21022-02
  • 13041-21022-03
• Cylinder Head:
  • 1NZ-FE: 11101-21062
  • 1NZ-FXE: 11101-21062
• Engine Block:
  • 1NZ-FE: 11401-29856
  • 1NZ-FXE: 11401-29856
• Valves Seals:
  • 1NZ-FE: 90913-02092
  • 1NZ-FXE: 90913-02092
• Intake Valves:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13711-21010
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13711-21010
• Exhaust Valves:
  • 1NZ-FE: 13715-21010
  • 1NZ-FXE: 13715-21010

 

Great picture! It tells all, there is more than just valve timing in the design.

 

I also noticed that the fuel injectors are a different part number between the Yaris and the Prius. I ordered a set of the Yaris injectors because it seems to me that with the Yaris cam and a higher compression, there will be more air. Therefore to keep up with the optimum air/fuel ration, more fuel will be required. I'll run with the cam and injectors and see what happens.

 

Cool - keep us posted. Would be awesome to have dyno results but i know thats $50-$100 for 3 pulls from most dyno shops.

 

I doubt I will put it on a dyno. I will, however, be driving long distances which include long upgrades, typically where the stock drivetrain underperforms. That's where I'll be able really tell the difference.

 

I have never had that issue since I quit driving a Mazda GLC.

 

Interesting. When I looked up the pistons the other day, I could have sworn they were the same. Not sure where I slipped up, so I rechecked and you are absolutely right. Hmmm