2008 Prius with new 12 V battery won't shift; lots of warning lights

Sorry I'm late arriving at the party (…so, what's new?), but I notice you have more than one Prius, that being said, once your current problem is sorted, you might consider researching into Prolong Grid Charging (Hybrid Automotive). There are many threads on PriusChat about long-term maintenance of the TractionBattery on the Prius (and other hybrids).

The ScanGauge-II is a very useful tool (I have two, as they can be daisy-chained) with 4 X-gauges set up on each) - so I'm able to monitor RPM of the ICE (Engine), Water temp of ICE, Voltage of AuxBattery, HP (power generated by ICE when it's running); Voltage of TractionBattery, Current (+/-) in/out of TractionBattery, State_of_Charge (%) of TractionBattery, Average gas consumption for current trip. I can also read/reset DTC codes as well as perform other functions using the SG-IIs. I found the second SG-II on eBay for ~$95. - hope this helps - Wil

 

P0AA6 is usually high voltage leak to ground. The car throws master caution triangle. Usually its from corroded buss bars and interconnect corroded from leaking battery modules in the hybrid battery. The other way you have leaking high voltage to ground is from compromised motor winding's in the transaxle. Open winding coating has cracked and its exposing raw winding to the chassis and arcing.
You can tell its not the trans because if it is leaking high voltage the car will drive really bad like somethings really wrong with the trans and throw that code very fast. A leaking hybrid battery will let the car run ok with poor power like the battery is not contributing power properly.

High volt leak in battery is very common with age of car.
High volt leaking from trans winding very uncommon.

Not buying the dealer replaced the hybrid battery. I bet they cleaned up the hybrid battery enough to get it to stop throwing the ground fault
and its rotted again.
If I was you I would find someone who works on hybrid batterys... craigs list is full of them and have them pull the battery out and take the cover off it and look at it. If its minty fresh and has the proper date code on the case (post that here) then its a new battery and worth alot of money. Thats about $200 labor. They will come to your house and do it in your driveway.
If its a mess with rotted interconnect you got snookered by the dealer. And the car needs a new battery.

Always bet on snookered with these people.

 

I had the hv leakage and it was one bad module leaking at the positive mounting screw...
small rust spot on the case..
hope yours is that simple, $25 fix

 

Highly doubtful it was reworked.

Not to say it can't happen at a dealer, but have only previously heard of it happening twice on this forum.

 

can the a/c compressor throw a leak to ground?

 

Ok that's great you can drive the car. If it was a transaxle winding leak you would not be able to do that.
If it's a hybrid battery hi volt leak it's very intermittent. After you clear the code it will drive sometimes for quite a while before it throws a ground fault nag.

I'm with SFO I doubt it's reworked but you never know and I'm hoping it is reworked.

Cursory battery health is if it's struggling is very poor mileage very poor power and keep an eye on the mfd
Screen and watch how fast it goes from blue bars to one purple bar and does it recover back to blue bars in a mile or two.
The death knell indicator is quick discharge and very quick charge.

I highly doubt it's the transaxle.

Open that battery case up and take a lot of pictures and post them here. We want to see the copper bars and look for any green corrosion around the nuts and bolts on the battery modules.
Pictures....Also there's some numbers on the cover that are code for its build rate. Take a picture of that.

Good luck I think you have a bad battery.

 

The good news is if it is the trans I looked on ebay and there's maybe 20 of them around $300 + $150 shipping. Then its around $700 to $1000 to install it. So worst case its $1500 tops but if you have a new battery that makes all the difference in the world. The car is good for many years with a new battery. If it has a new battery its worth keeping so focus on the battery first as thats the decision maker there.

Good Luck.

Btw, we thank each other on this site by just hitting the like button if you were helped. Its the bottom in the bottom right corner of the post box.

 

Mini vci is the right tool for the job. Since your local dealer service is less than stellar and the car is out of warranty it is going to be up to you to do the diagnostics and you'll need the data that you'll be able to read through mini vci. The ScanGauge is good at what it does but it won't read every DTC and it won't report any sub codes.
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The inverter will shut down to save itself but I wouldn't make a habit of it. At least you know your inverter coolant pump is working.

 

Buy any mini vci J2534 on Amazon, ebay, or AliExpress. Should cost around $15 shipped. There is no need to use the enclosed CD at all. Download the very latest Toyota TechStream (12.00.127) from web (may need to look around a little bit). No activation code required whatsoever. TechStream works only on 32-bit Windows OS.. You probably need to, at least, allocate part of the laptop hard drive for 32-bit Windows OS. 32-bit Windows 10 will automatically recognize the mini vci device.

I have only used TechStream to look around my car's conditions. It seems to be pretty easy to use. The hardest part may be establishing communication between the car and the laptop. However, if you use 32-bit Windows, it should be pretty straight forward and automatic.