P1080, P3022

Hey all,
I just took our new to us 2006 on a maiden test drive today, & got a P1080 & P3022 code. The car frequently cycles on & off for short intervals, the battery fan is running full speed, sometimes has normal power sometimes very poor driveability, the battery was at first charging but by time I got home appeared to no longer be. When it was charging it went from 2 purple bars to fully green in a little under 2 miles, then back to one bar in a few more.

Now, the backstory. We got this car last month with minor front end damage to the left fender.& coolant canister. It ran & drove, (not far without coolant) the PO didn't want to pay the body shop for repairs, stated it was his DD car & ran awesome. The body shop had run the 12v battery dead for the week & a half they moved it in-out daily & were jump starting it @ the front left fuse box terminal. The car looked to be well cared for, has 169k on it, so we got it & I straightened the front & repaired everything. While going over the car I noticed evidence someone had previously been into the hybrid battery, parts were not properly assembled & missing hardware, I did not open it up but repaired all the misassembled parts & missing hardware I found, removed & cleaned the battery fan & intake duct.

So. Tomorrow I'll open up the battery to see what I can find, but I'm suspecting it has a reconditioned hybrid pack that probably didn't like sitting idle for a month. Any thoughts?

 

Got both batteries out today & the covers off, the car with the codes has some corrosion on a few terminals, but overall not bad. It looks to be a Renan though with different cell block markings.
The donor car battery has noticeable corrosion on all terminals, & what looks like evidence that ekectrolyte has in the past oozed along the bottom pan. It also appears to be a reman. So, other than voltage readings, is there any other checks I can perform on the cell blocks? Also, the code referred to "block 12 weak" is that counting the physical cell blocks, & which end do I count from?

 

Thanks for the input, I'm going to invest in some tooling.

One more question, I need to have the car smogged by tomorrow, so, using a voltmeter, the pack from the parts donor car reads 8v on all cells except one that reads 7v. The pack I took out of this car has 5 cells that read 7v. Would it be ok if I borrowed one of the better 8v cells from this pack & swapped it into the better pack in place if that one low cell without doing any equalizing? My knowledge of (lead acid) batteries in general thinks this would actually be better than leaving a low cell in play, am I wrong?

 

Yes, I have a parts car that has frame damage, both vehicles run so I let them both go thru the charge up stage yesterday when I pulled them in the shop until the engines shut off on their own. Both packs have sat since yesterday afternoon out of the cars. I don't have a charger/balancer yet as this was an unexpected thing, I know the right way to do this after researching threads today, but until I have the tools I'm hoping to find a quick solution to get past the emissions testing before my tags expire.

 

Ok, sounds good, thanks.
The parts car hasn't sat much, maybe a few weeks at a time. I always let it charge when I run it, sometimes I run it up the road & back. I've only had it a few months. It's pack read 220v before I took the buss's off to check cells, the one that's giving me issues read 116v, and it was driven 15 miles yesterday. The good car did sit almost 2 months before the repairs were completed, with a drained battery from the body shop starting it twice a day & shutting it off quickly (no engine coolant). Might be what killed it.

 

True, I have intended to come up with some sort of battery tender for it

 

That's hard to do with an unregistered parts car that has frame damage, a cracked wheel, & the brakes feel like the old manual drums....
I see a need for a new invention......

 

Just got done cleaning up the buss's, used the best from both packs, I'll bring my meter home from work tomorrow, to do another check of cells, it's way better & accurate than the basic one I have here now (this one only rounds to the nearest volt)

 

I'm in the lower foothills, 22 miles out of Anderson. Off grid homestead out in the sticks.
Due to the individual cell discharge I could see that easily happening.