Prolong Battery conditioning kit

In case you haven't read the instructions (bold font theirs): "A completely empty pack takes just under 24 hours to reach a full state of charge and balance, depending on cell efficiency. At no time should the combined 'filling' and 'balancing' times exceed 48 hours."

 

+1.

I would stop and if you were only going a top end balance, call it good. If doing a discharge cycle to 134 volts, I would start that.

Don't forget to let the car sit after the last charge cycle for at least an hour .

 

If you are simply looking at the Multifunction display, you are really missing a lot of information.

I'll say it again....
With a car like yours you should really consider getting some scan tools. Will cost you less than $30
Android phone/tablet, Elm 327 Bluetooth OBDII reader, Torque Pro app.

You'll see much more granular data like State of charge, hybrid battery voltage, Amps in/out, Voltage of each of the 14 Battery blocks, etc

 

I second the suggestion of something like a ScanGauge-II, I have two SG-IIs in my 2009 Gen II, and the 8 X-Gauges are:

Upper:
ICE RPM
WaterTemp (ICE)
AuxBattery Voltage
ICE Power (HP)

Lower:
TractionBattery (btV)
TractionBattery Current (+/-btA)
TractionBattery (SoC) alternating with TractionBattery (cell-delta) (csd)
Fuel Consumption (for current trip)

ScanGuage-IIs are a great idea particularly if you're interested in HyperMiling. Also LinearLogic (makers of the SG-IIs) are very helpful, and their customer support is absolutely first class!

hope this helps - Wil

 

Glad to hear this! I recommend driving the car for a few days then cycling the pack another time or two. You should continue seeing improvements.

How do you get btV, btA, and SOC on the same screen? When I tried it would only show one or them at a time.

 

Patience, @jeff652 , patience! …I think it took me 2 or 3 attempts to get the 4 X-Gauges I needed all in the second SG-II (pauses to nip outside to snap a pic of the current setup…)
…
…

 

I've noted that too, drove me nuts for a week then I started tracking the temperature when I parked it. I've found a cold battery shows less charge than a warm one. Working with a lot of Ryono One+ tools I've also found I can ruin a good battery by filling it up when it is cool and then letting it sit in the sun ️ because of that I'm always careful not to park a completely full battery in the sun.


iPhone ?

 

This happened to me as well, it's a fuse that blew. You could've just replaced it yourself, home depot sells them. They use a 1.5A fuse, if you buy a 2A fuse, it would give you the additional buffer to prevent the fuse blowing again

 

Is this only recommended for failing/older batteries or all batteries?

 

Since you haven't been able to charge it in several weeks I'm curious to know how the battery is holding up. Is it still doing better or is it declining in power?

 

Preventative maintenance for all batteries, I would guess! I bought my 2009 Gen II (used) in early 2014, and invested in a Prolong system even though my car was not throwing any codes. I have used the Prolong system regularly (as per instructions) and have noticed that in the past year, the state of charge (SoC) average figure (66%) has been higher than it was in the first year or so of my owning the car. The average fuel consumption is in the upper 40s, the best MPG per fill-up I've seen was in the high 50s and best on one single journey was 61. Of course, I've no idea of what the figures might have been if I had not regularly conditioned the TractionBattery, but at least (so far) it looks like it has been a worthwhile investment! (…but as always, YMMV !) - hope this helps - Wil
BTW: Welcome to PriusChat! (…but beware, PriusChat can be addictive! )

 

I was referring to Jeff's comment about the number of reconditioning cycles, not whether to use the Prolong system on all batteries. That is, recondition, drive the car for a few days, recondition, drive the car a few days, etc. Does this recommendation just apply to 44Zoomer's battery or does it apply to newer batteries as well?