I have noticed the MPG has suddenly dropped about 10 MPG in the last couple weeks. Now A/C does not provide any cooling air. It was working just fine yesterday. Inverter itself gets pretty hot and there is no liquid movement in the reservoir tank. And now I am getting master warning lights (see attached). However, the car drives just fine as usual. I think it is the inverter pump issue and perhaps other additional problems. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
try your AC in the morning when your car is cool. If it works, then it's most likely inverter pump. Easy DIY for about $100
A/C works fine when engine is cold (Thanks JC). Tried to pull DTC(s) but accidentally erased everything. Drove the car to dealer without any problem. Dealer tech confirmed the inverter pump issue. I have elected to let dealer replacing the pump this time due to potential access and pump removal difficultly that I have read here. Next time (say 5 yrs from now), I plan to do it myself as a preventive measure. Dealer technician has also noticed a small A/C condenser leak and recommend replacement. It is probably appropriate since it is 10 years old. I have also just noticed some red fluid on my garage floor below the middle of the engine compartment. Dealer tech checked the car and did not find any kind of leak. Do not know what to make of it at this point in time.
You can start putting a cardboard box under your car at night, where the red fluid is at. Then hopefully you can get a drip on the cardboard and you can examine it closer. Red fluid can only be transaxle fluid......but if that's leaking (from axle seal), the dealer should be able to see it
That is a real possibility too. I only noticed the fluid on the floor when I was investigating the inverter pump issue. It was not a lot of liquid, just a small puddle. I tried to compare the fluid on the floor with fresh new SLLC. The liquid on the floor was of a different shade of red, and little oily. So it is difficult to identify. Normally, my Prius is parked in a different location and there is no liquid on the floor there.
Maybe from another car? It really sounds like transmission fluid. SLLC coolant is pink and quite watery
That is unlikely since no other car normally parked there. However I will double check if the only remotely possible other car may have a leak. Just checked the floor under my repaired car and it is clean. According the Toyota technician, I may have spilled some SLLC when I initially trying to investigate the issue during the warning lights panic. I have opened the reservoir cap (which clearly stated do not open when hot) and noticed there was no liquid movement. The inverter system was really hot. And presumably the SLLC was really hot too and may even have boiled. Enclosed is photo of the old leaking A/C condenser. Thanks everyone for the timely help.
Thank you for great wisdom shared here. I am a "get your brother DIY" meaning my brother does repair to help me save $ and my car, after I get crazy with details of problem. I do what i can. Haven't figured out how to start a thread so hopefully this one will work. History 2004 Prius - 148,000 mi - 2nd owner purchased at 108,000 from toyota. All service at same dealer shop Caldwell toyota until recent fender bender. Service records indicate coolant pump and engine water pump replaced in 2011 - recall. Engine power flush done in 2012 (hopefully that means coolant???) . 2013 a 110K service (5k) was done. I bought it 2014. MPG was about 47-50 then. now about 43 but range is 38 to 48. (hints welcomed ). I change the oil 6mo intervals. New 12v battery last year. Only problem is OEM blue tooth does not work with my new phone, and, chicks keep rear-ending my bumper (sigh). The only thing i dislike about the car is seats are uncomfortable, especially on long rides. And the dealer prices are outrageous (a sliding scale would be nice). They want $700 to fix this, and they told me it could be one of four pumps (i am confused by this). . Question How far can i drive it? or must it be towed? Liked the ice bag on inverter trick, is that bona fide - - can i go about 12 miles if i keep her speed low? or can i go on highway? do i stop every so often / mile? Maybe the obd can hook up to read the temp - how hot can she go? Problem happened P0A93 - Inverter A cooling system performance - OBD code found after warning lights (red triangle, Engine warning light, and red car on Display (and two other ones that did not come back after i turned her off and on) . I was on highway (62 mph, coolant 181'f), air condi was on, when the lights came on - felt something change in the car (not a bump or a hicup, almost like something tight up was set down free). It was 91 degrees outside. In about .5 mi, I got off highway and stopped a few times on way home - about 5 miles. Turned her off and then on again - Called toyota but couldnt tell me whether i should drive it or not. Chats helped - the coolant needs changing every 2 years, and that i should use toyota - pink kind? (last that was done was 2012 mea culpa :{) and chat recomends the toyota coolant - fine with me - any problem using the 50/50 mix? must it be at the dealer or is buying online ok? any suggestions for retailers? $27.00 a bottle - will i need two? Since the pump was already replaced under the recall in 2011 - i noticed there was another? recall in 2013 - but the TS sheet said they will not replace again - is that true? Any luck getting T to pay for # 2? Also, noticed a jingling noise once in a while. Should the engine water pump be replaced at the same time? (not sure jingling is that - might inverter pump jingle? Further more, In your experience what is the general maintenance for 150000 miles? What else should I replace (besides tires etc). Chats noted the 12v battery can deplete with the inverter coolant problem - and i am wondering if that was the problem with the old battery.... how should I check this for future... or just change the pumps every 50k? I am hoping she will go 300,000.... Could there be another problem affecting all of this? what else should I change / check? Since this will be first DIY big project, do we have to unhook any electrical? did not see that done in any of the videos? Will some action be needed in the display maintenance mode (push info and click lights on 3x)? Or i just use scan tool to clear codes? should i clear code before repair and see if it comes back? Didnt look at coolant movement yet - but will tomoro. Issue now is how far i can drive her to get to repair shop ?? Besides having a silver base - is there anything about getting this part on line that i should be wary of? Is there a prefered manufacturer? I prefer dealer / orig parts but brother says cheaper on line is smarter. sorry about all the questions - Im the question maven.
You need to provide only the small failure details, and too many questions....lol To address the main failure of the inverter pump, just buy the oem part from Amazon and a set of hose pinch plastic clamps. The clamps come 3 in a set for about $10. This is used to keep the job simple and you won't have to drain coolant. 1. Check YouTube for video on this repair 2. Remove front bumper, just slip off the cover do you can remove driver's headlight. 3. Remove driver's headlight 4. Pump should be right under headlight. 5. Clamp the 2 hoses 6. Replace pump Reinstall everything in reverse order. And enjoy the $600 savings. You should be able to drive good 20 to 25 miles on a cool morning without any issues.
Thank you - and for the laugh - much obliged... 5 year old coolant is ok? also found chat below which answered driving issue : 3)While the very short trips, without AC and minimizing regen (put the car in neutral before hitting the brakes) in low/moderate temps probably is OK I would not exceed a trip of more than 5-6 miles and then allow quite a while for the inverter to cool down before driving again. I can tell you first hand that the inverter temps rise very high very quickly (monitored with CAN-View) and a burned up inverter will cost you a LOT more than a rental car.
Oh you can drain the coolant and fill again. Up to you. Just makes the job slightly harder. There are no issues driving the car in cool weather for short distances
still waiting for the pump to arrive ugh! however, all warning lights stopped displaying for this issue. Coolant turbulence not observed - we still will change pump. Drove it gingerly another 12 miles on a cooler day (neutral when braking, no highway, etc) a bit nervous because utube video from luscious garage said red triangle warning goes out if inverter overheats. Gen 2 Prius - P0A93 watch?v=d27OglL7PqU
END NOTES: Thanks 9c91006 for tips ! Saved $ 649.00 off dealer quote , or $250 off mechanic quote... 2004 PRIUS - inverter Coolent pump, purchased on line for $51 ebay, changed a week ago, BLESS MY BROTHER! All ok so far. No more codes / no warning lights. Victory! Coolant was changed also, and running / purring fine. Valvoline could have been used for half the cost. Took him 1.5 hours PLUS we both spent about one to two hours reading all the tips on the chat - well worth it. He put car up on ramps, drained the coolant from plug, shook the hoses to get it all out. Used a 2x4 to gently lift inverter to gain access to pump bolts, and thus found that he did not need to remove headlamp. He always uses PB lube on bolts beforehand and cleans / wire brushes bolts up afterwards. Will upload photos later. MAIL note: Comment about ordering on line. - we expected pump in 2 days. THEY Did NOT DELIVER ON SATURDAY and altho UPS delivered to UPS local station within 2 days - UPS actually had the USPS handle final delivery - who knew??? - so unfortunately it was an extra 2 business or 3 days wait after the weekend. Ordered Wednesday / delivered Tuesday. Thankfully, living in suburban NJ allows for lots of buses / public trans at minimal cost. Since Prius is almost to 150000 miles, need to explore preventive maintenance schedule, since manual stops. Should we do water pump, and what other parts recommended at this stage? Thank you all for great info!
