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Hybrid Automotive Grid Charger Instructions

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by jlm1983, Jul 9, 2017.

  1. jlm1983

    jlm1983 New Member

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    I just purchases a Hybrid Automotive Prolong Battery Charger with Prolong Battery Discharger for my 2006 Prius and I’m a little confused on the instructions. I get the general idea of how this works but I feel like the details are not quite clear. If someone could make clear some of these details I would much appreciate it.

    The Prolong Battery Charger User guide says that when charging the voltage will rise and once the battery is “full” it will switch to the balancing portion and you will know it’s done because the voltage will stop fluctuating. I feel like this is not very clear as to when exactly it is safe to turn off the charger and start the discharge process.

    Speaking of discharging, I know that I will need to use 2- 100w incandescent light bulbs at first but if I’m reading the table correctly in the discharging instructions I will need to swap out the bulbs with 75w at 196v and then 25w bolts at 140v. Is this correct? Also when discharging it looks like I need to only discharge to 134v on the first discharge and then charge the pack again, Correct? The second time I discharge should be to 84v and then the third time to 17v?

    If someone could please help me out with these details I would much appreciate it.
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You seem to have a full understanding of the process
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    You've got a good understanding ;).

    For the top end balancing, the voltage will stabilize around 238-240 volts.

    I don't have the light bulb version from Jeff, I have the intelligent discharger which makes the process super easy. But 134 volts is the typical starting discharge voltage, then 84 volts. I did not go down below 84 volts to 17.

    If you have any questions, @jeff652 will be able to help out(y).
     
  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    FYI, I have never seen this fluctuating phenomenon. I just charge until the voltage stops rising (battery full) and if I am doing a top balance, continue for another 4-6 hours. I normally only top balance the first and last charges. The in between charges I just charge to full.

    As for the rest, as the others have said, you have a good understanding of the process.
     
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  5. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    When I have done the charging after a discharge cycle, the amps bounce around from 0 to 0.5 amps until the pack voltage is 202 volts. After 202 volts, the charge stabilizes at ~0.348 amps.

    The first time I performed the cycle I witnessed it, took a video and sent it to Jeff. He said it was normal ;).

    If at the top end, it is normal for it to bounce 1-2 volts. So keeping an occasional eye on the charge as it progresses helps determine when the top end is stable. But usually around 239 +/- 1-2 volts.

    Forgot to mention these in my post above:(.
     
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  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    When I said I had never never seen the voltage fluctuation, I was talking about at the top end. Agreed the Amperage fluctuates below 200 V.
     
  7. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    When I used the light bulb discharger I did not go below 80 volts either. When I started using the charger at that voltage it wigs out both the voltage and the current meter flashes like crazy till it gets back up to 150 volts then it straightened out and stopped flashing. Kinda flips you out thinking the charger is blown up so don't be surprised. I think the charger is having a hard time with a heavy load on it with the empty pack.

    Also now after a full discharge and a full charge my max voltage on my pack is 234. Used to be 238. First charge was 240 so max pack voltage tends to get a little lower as time goes by and multiple charges.

    As far as voltage fluctuation at the end of the charge I think its so infrequent that its hard to notice over a few hours unless you stare at it but for the most part no fluctuation which means you never really know if you have reached max charge. So a few drawbacks on this system but for the most part it works.
     
  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    This is a positive sign in my books as the max nominal voltage should ideally be around 235 V IMO.
    I think it is deliberately programmed to do this to break up any crystallisation that might be in the cells.
     
  9. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    This is vague because it will vary with every battery due to individual conditions and health.

    I personally begin the discharge phase when I get up in the morning and complete that by noon. Put it on balance charge till next morning (approx. 18 hrs) and repeat the whole process the next morning for stage two, rinse, lather, repeat, for stage three. I do these on long weekends. I could flip this schedule to begin the discharge process in the evening after work.

    You also have plenty of time to re-read the instructions during this lengthy process..... :coffee: ;)

    Just before my last module failure at the end of a regular balance charge (not reconditioning), peak voltage rose to 243v which definitely raised my eyebrows and a sign of things to come.
     
    #9 fotomoto, Jul 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
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  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    It has anti sulphation mode also?
     
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  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Well, they don't sulphate, but the same idea and yeah I think it is doing remediation by pulsing the voltage and current.
     
  12. greasemonkey007

    greasemonkey007 Active Member

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    Using the light bulbs you really have to keep an eye on the voltmeter to make sure you get the bulbs changed out in time. It can fall pretty fast when it gets to a certain point. You also have to camp out to see the fluctuation. It is slow. I normally charge for a length of time and check to see that it's stabilized around 240V. It varies with temperature.

    Where are you at in AR?
     
  13. jlm1983

    jlm1983 New Member

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    I think I've got the hang of things now that I've charged and discharged a few times. I did my load test yesterday and replaced the bad module. Now it's back to charging and discharging again. I appreciate everybody that replied, It's nice to have reassurance when doing something like this and you guys really came through for me. I will update once I'm done to let you guys know how things turn out.

    greasemonkey, I'm in Searcy.
     
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  14. greasemonkey007

    greasemonkey007 Active Member

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    One thing you'll probably want to do if you bought the load tester from hybrid automotive is to re-wire the pigtail to tie both filaments together to put more load on it. It has a hot wire for both filaments, high and low. I tied mine together. The more the load, the better.
     
  15. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    No.
    Any idiot can make the load higher.
    Higher load is higher heat, heat is your enemy which is why the charge current is clamped to .338.
    You'll end up popping a p3021 and then some.

    Patience.
     
  16. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I think you have misunderstood greasemonkey, if that's to whom you're replying.

    Greasemonkey's post is about load testing, not charge/discharge.
     
  17. jlm1983

    jlm1983 New Member

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    Well after my third balance I decided to give the car a go....Looks like I'm back to square one. Got the red triangle after driving about a mile down the road. I'm posting my load test results to see what you guys think. I replaced module #7 with one I got from a reliable source on this forum. Kinda thinking maybe I should have replaced module #16 as well. Let me know what you guys think.
    Screen Shot 2017-07-16 at 11.17.50 PM.png
     
  18. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Looks like the one.

    You have your module numbering backwards, block 1 contains modules 1 and 2; block 2 contains modules 3 and 4 ... block 14 contains modules 27 and 28. So what you are calling model 7 is in fact module 22. The one you are calling 16 is module 13. I assume the way you have numbered your blocks you have this correct as in block 14 is nearest the HV batt ECU and block 1 is furtherest away.

    Aside from that, module 13 (what you've called 16) is probably borderline and if you have a spare module that is matched to the others, I'd go ahead an replace it. If not, just leave it for now. A mis-matched module will probably do more harm than good.

    Once you have the battery back together again, do a full charge and then continue to charge for 4-6 hours to top balance. Let the battery rest for a min of 2 hours then take it for a drive. Monitor the blocks in-car if you have Techstream or Torque Pro (or similar app) to see see how they're behaving.

    Let us know how you get on.
     
  19. jlm1983

    jlm1983 New Member

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    Ahh, the module numbering was just an oversight in the spreadsheet, sorry about that. When I load tested them I started on the ECU side.

    So I bought a pair of matching modules. Since I already replaced module #22, should I go ahead and replace module #21 with the new matching module and then move the old module #21 to module #13's spot? I guess I didn't realize how important matching the pairs would be.
     
  20. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Matching is not so much module pairs as matching all the other remaining modules with which the "new" ones have to play nicely. Personally, if the "new" ones are a good match to the remaining others, I don't think it will make much difference which way you do it. The real secret (and difficulty) is finding matching modules in the first place, which I think, at this stage of the game, you know all too well.

    PS, Apart from the two modules in this discussion, all your remaining modules are very well matched.