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Rebuilt HV battery still getting codes c1310, c1259, p3190

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JLK17, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    Thank you. I appreciate your help.
    The vacuum lines are put back in the right places. We double-checked that when putting the throttle body back on after cleaning. The fuel is getting to the fuel rail. When we put the new battery in and it was fully charged, the car started up and then shut off a few seconds later and then started up again and shut down. It did this about 3 times on that first try. The display showed quite a few bars and then they started dropping. On subsequent tries the battery display had less and less bars. By the time we got the read out that I attached as a pdf, the battery was down to one bar on the display. I think that's why it showed 34% by that time. We waited a couple of days and tried everything again after cleaning throttle body and plate, checking the fuel, checking connections and fuses again. There is a new MAF sensor, but double checked it. The battery showed about 3/4 of the bars on the display and it did the same thing. Started up, revs up slightly and then shut down and gave the red triangle. The 12V battery was also fully charged before trying that. Our next step is to get the Mini VCI and to find an old laptop to dedicate to the Techstream software.
     
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  2. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    First make sure again that the High Voltage battery is at a high state of charge.
    Fully charge the high voltage pack first to give you the best chance of success.

    At startup, the Prius uses the big battery to spin the electric motor.
    The electric motor spins the gas engine .
    At this point the gas engine hasn't actually started firing yet . The gas engine isn't truly running yet.
    Momentum from the spinning is what makes it seem like it is running.
    So if the car "dies" after about 15 or 20 seconds, it is likely because it never really started. The gas engine never really fired up and took over from the spin that the electric motor gave it.

    So let's try to determine if there is an issue with the fuel.

    How old is the gas that is in the gas tank?
    Is the gas in the tank pretty fresh?
    As in, less than a month old.
    Less than a week would be even better.

    Will it stay running if you use starter fluid as a starting aid?
    Basically if the car runs with starter fluid, then you have a fuel issue.

    *****
    I am a little reluctant to type the rest of this out because I'm not certain that the nuances of doing this come across well in typed words.
    You do need to be careful when dealing with fuel sources. Especially ones under pressure in metal containers. Bad stuff can happen. Youtube-worthy bad stuff. Try at your own risk.

    Warning: starter fluid is extremely flammable. The car can backfire through the throttle body and shoot flames. Yes. Really.

    Some options on how to administer the starter fluid.

    Remove the paper air filter so you can see the butterfly. Leave the hood open
    Spray some starter fluid in the butterfly before you start the car.
    Quickly hop in and try to start the car, then hop back out and go to the front of the car.
    Judiciously and as safely as possible, give small bursts towards the butterfly to see if it can keep the car running.

    Another tactic possible is to briefly remove the front hose on the throttle body (the one with the spring clamp) and spray small bursts towards the opening. If car takes over and starts running on its own it'll be very choppy until you replace the hose.

    A more brutish way to make sure the starter fluid gets to the intake is, with the car off, stick a longhandled screwdriver or something similar down the throat of the throttle body to force the butterfly to remain slightly open. Once you give the car power, the throttle body will kinda battle against this and throw a code, but let's ignore that for now. We're just trying to ensure that the starter fluid that is sprayed into the butterfly gets to the intake.

    I've also used a propane tank with a rubber hose as a fuel source instead of starter fluid.

    The general idea is to see if introducing a known-good fuel source allows the car to run for a bit. Even running choppy would be count. Anything beyond the normal spin from the electric motor.

    If it "runs" from an alternate fuel source, then you question the quantity/quality of fuel coming from the gas tank.

    As always feel free to call for a better explanation.
    And can I mention again you try these suggestions at your own risk?
     
  3. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    Ill never understand why people buy a 10 year old car with 1/4 million miles and try to rebuild it.. its always going to be a worthless money pit. even if you got the car for free its not worth the effort.. anyway as for the lack of power Id check for a clogged catalytic convertor, ill assume you did a compression check before rebuilding the bottom end of the motor if not do one, you might have bad rings or worse.
     
  4. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    It was a $500 project for my 18 year old son. Believe me, I agree in the "money pit" comment, but it's also priceless father/son time spent learning a skill that many teens may never get to experience. To each his own, but we saw "value" in it.
     
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  5. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    Thank you! Sorry for the delayed response, we were out of town for a few days. This will be our next step.
     
  6. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    And yes, compression test done. Will check the catalytic converter.
     
  7. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    The cars starts with starter fluid. My husband kept it running for well over 30 seconds, two different times. The idle would go up and down depending on how much fluid was added. We did get the error code P2111 which indicated that the throttle body plate was stuck open (which he did with a screwdriver). This seems to indicate a fuel delivery issue as you suggested. Probably the next steps are to establish if there is fuel pressure, bad fuel, or a fuel pump problem. Thank you so much for your suggestions. We appreciate everyone's input.
     
  8. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.
    Off the top of my head it should be around 42 psi or so if I remember right.

    And...
    Unless you know FOR SURE that the gas is less than a few weeks old, pump it all out and start with brand new known-good fuel.
     
  9. JLK17

    JLK17 Junior Member

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    A little update...
    Didn't have a fuel pressure gauge readily available today, so we decided to tackle whether or not we are getting fuel period. Before starting we unplugged the 12V battery and cleared the codes. Disconnected the main fuel line and ran a clear tube to a portable gas container so we could observe fuel flow. Started car- no fuel flow). Did this two times.
    Decided to check power sources. Inspected and tested all fuses and relays again.
    Pulled the fuel pump relay and checked for power on the backside. Appeared to be working normally.
    Checked circuit breaker #1- OK
    Because items in the fuse panel tested good, moved on to fuel pump test. Pulled up back seat and opened fuel pump access. Disconnected wiring to fuel pump. Connected 12V jumper from battery to #3 (positive) and #7 (negative) and nothing happened. No sound, no fuel flowing, nothing. Will test tomorrow again just to double check we didn't miss anything. At this point looks like things are pointing to a bad fuel pump.
     
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  10. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Sounds like you are making headway.
    Thanks for keeping us up to date.

    Your posts are a good road map for others.
     
  11. SHATRI

    SHATRI New Member

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    i'm having the same issue with my Prius and the same codes are coming up. Can you please tell me what you did to get the issue sorted out? Please help.
     
  12. trowtmaniac

    trowtmaniac New Member

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    hi did you ever fix this problem?
     
  13. Boogieboy

    Boogieboy New Member

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    So, if you have these codes, C1310 and C1259 it could mean anything and not necessary that you have a bad brake regeneration system?
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    C1259 and C1310 both are codes that are set in the brake ECU.

    But the brake ECU only sets those codes because of messages it gets from the HV ECU about codes there, which are issues somewhere in the car's hybrid system. So these two codes only mean that the brake ECU is aware of the hybrid system issue, so it knows it is on its own to brake the car, and can't ask for help from the hybrid system.

    So whenever you see these two codes, you know that you just need to get the trouble codes from the HV ECU and find out what is really wrong with the car.

    Some people use generic code readers that only show these two codes, and not the ones in the HV ECU (because these codes are in the brake ECU, and all cars have brakes, so generic code readers know to look there). So if that happens, and you're not seeing the HV ECU codes that will really tell you what's going on with the car, then you need to either get a better code reader, or get the car to somebody who has one.