I installed a n Optima Yellowtop in 2010, got seven years out of it. Plenty happy to replace wiyh another when it got weak. The new one is down to an 11.8 volt load condition after only four months! (I checked because I got the red brake light, the brakes symbol and the antilock symbol, which PriusChat indicated could well be a 12 volt issue). The system indicates it's charging at 14.4 volts, so that's not the issue. The car is still driven daily, 20 mile round trip commute. Has anyone elee had one of these things go South on them early? Planning to go to the store first thing in the morning and request replacement.
what should load test voltage indicate for a healthy battery? was it fully charged when you installed? what is the no load voltage after surface charge dissipates?
Get a battery retailer or dealership to test with a digital load tester, see what the battery's current Cold Cranking Amps (or Cranking Amps) is, compared to rated. If it's at or above spec, the battery is worth recharging, continuing to use. If CCA is significantly below spec, maybe time to move on. Most testers of this ilk will give a "verdict", either good, ok but charging needed, or fail. You can do this sort of test for yourself with something like Solar BA5 tester. Considering the age, and your pattern of daily driving for decent distance, and assuming no unmentioned mishaps, sounds like you were sold a dud. One thing, someone recently posed question in a thread: the Optima Yellow Tops have high CCA, but are amp hours more important. There are options with lower CCA and higher amp hours: Mistake getting Optima battery ? | PriusChat FWIW, I have a Optima Yellow Top replacement, put in about 18 months back, but I'm considering the points in the above thread, for next time.
I've been a fan. As stated, the first one in this 2008 Gen 2 went nearly seven years, in the tropics. I put another in the wife's Pris V a couple years back and it's going strong. I've installed them for three Prius driving friends and they're all happy. Hopefully this one is a fluke.
Hmmm. NAPA tested the battery and says it's good -- in fact it teads higher AH than rated. I have it on a smart charger and we'll see what's up after I top off and re-install.
Well, battery is good. I noted the coolant in the inverter looked a little low, so topped it off. Started car, cannot see any turbulence. I believe the pump was already replaced under warranty. Is it OK to drive about 30 minutes to the Dealer, or should I have it trailered?
Ah, OK. I used to fly through Typhoons for a living, so what I was expecting to see from the description "Watch for turbulaence on the reservoir" was, um, excessive. The pump runs. The fluid moves. I jumpered points 4 & 13 on the OBD hookup, started the car, pumped the brakes 8 quick times and, Voila. All lights out. Thanks to all, and to Patrick Wong, for the assistance. Dontcha love a story with a happy ending?
All the lights having to do with brakes were lit up. First thing checked 12 volt. Then Inverter pump. All good. Finally just did as above. Whew!
