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My new Prius Gen 1

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Brian in Tucson, Apr 3, 2017.

  1. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I disagree with this statement:

    1. The factory-installed iridium spark plugs do not have antiseize lubricant on the threads.
    2. The Toyota factory repair manual is silent on the issue of using antiseize lubricant.
    3. The NGK website recommends against the use of antiseize lubricant on the basis that the spark plug shell plating is adequate protection.
    NGK Spark Plugs
    4. The Denso website is silent on the issue, but provides a tightening torque spec assuming the spark plug threads are "dry" (hence, no antiseize or other lubricant.)
    Spark Plug Installation | DENSO Auto Parts

    I've replaced spark plugs on several Prius (without antiseize lube) and have not had trouble removing the old plugs, although I will admit that there is "drag" on the plugs due to the threads being clogged with combustion byproducts. I don't use antiseize lube upon installation of the new iridium spark plugs. It is important to observe the 13 ft.-lb tightening torque spec.

    It is a reasonable idea to squirt some WD-40 or other rust penetration light lubricant if you are concerned about breaking an installed plug in the cylinder head during removal.

    The point that I am trying to make is that the fact that a Toyota dealer mechanic did not use antiseize lube on the spark plugs, is not evidence of that person's incompetence. If you desire to use antiseize lube, that is your business.
     
    #41 Patrick Wong, May 3, 2017
    Last edited: May 3, 2017
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  2. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    So strong in your opinion! Here's why antisieze should always be used: Two very dissimilar metals in contact with each other can cause electrolysis and corrosion. Also, the threads of the plug, being steel, can strip the threads of the cylinder head, being aluminum. And finally, a pennys worth of antisieze will save a lot of problems vs having to pull the head to have it properly repaired.

    I've not experienced stripped threads on a car, but I have on motorcycles. If I can avoid it, I will.
     
  3. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    On other fronts, keeping my fingers crossed today, it's the day when I have the new cat and O2 sensors installed. I've tried to anticipate all the possible parts necessary, but the donut seal for the cat to the manifold doesn't look right, too small. It's what Walker and Bosal call for, so maybe I'm just not seeing it right. I'm hoping I can finally get the smog check done. I've been using Torque and my phone to monitor the readiness monitors and the P0420 code, it definitely works just fine for that. The sensors, btw, came with little tubes of Denso anti seize creme.

    I got a new muffler for it, too. I'll wait til all the sawing and welding are done before I tackle that, tho.

    And Friday, I found a front bumper cover in the junk yard to replace mine which is cracked. I'm sanding and painting it this week, talked to a body shop and they wanted $300 to paint. That's fair, probably, but not in the budget. I have a friend who'll paint it up for the cost of the materials. I've been checking paint codes lately. My 03 and the 02 I'm working on both have the same code, but the 02 is silver and the 03 is gold. I knew the 03 had been repainted (a good paint job) but hadn't had a color change. And side by side, the difference is pretty subtle.
     
  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The pot calling the kettle black, don't you think? However, I disagree, Patrick stated objective information and left it for the reader to form their own opinion.

    The main point Patrick made (hint, point was not, "to use" or "not to use" anti-seize), which I'd like to reiterate is:
    and it is disingenuous to make the implication otherwise. I'd also reiterate this statement:
    No-one is saying you personally can't use anti-seize.
    Anti-seize makes this a bigger possibility due to the real likelihood of over-torquing when using anti-seize.

    Anyway I don't want to inflame the do I or don't I use anti-seize argument, as there is as many for as against, and I don't wish to change the minds of either camp. I just wanted to reiterate some of the statements made by Patrick in his balanced and informative post.
     
    #44 dolj, May 8, 2017
    Last edited: May 8, 2017
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  5. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    New cat is in. I cleared the codes and took it out for a spin on the Interstate today, readiness monitors cleared and it didn't set any codes! Success! Tomorrow, get it smog checked and then try to negotiate the arcane innards of the Arizona Motor Vehicles Division. Oh Joy! Progress at least!
     
  6. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    Well, I took it in, bright and early. First thing, it passed emissions. Clean bill of health. Whew!

    Then over to AZMVD for title, registration, & a new plate. Problem was, and I've been dreading, that the title is out of state, has a lien on it with a release from the lender, an a lender whose name on the title was different from the company name on the release. A not so easy (voicemail hell!) call to the title dept. of the lender and they faxed an affidavit that they were who they were supposed to be and that the lien was satisfied.

    The nice lady charged me $38 and gave me bright shiny Arizona license plate, registration, an a hot off the printer title in my name. It took about $700 to get it home from Texas and get it rehabbed enough to license and drive. So total, I have about $1100 in a 200,000 mile car with 3 year old traction batteries, GPS (bought an update,) good running and nice looking 02. Thanks Linda L, sorry your car needed expensive work, but glad that I could do almost all of it. Still going to fix a door lock actuator, and do a pretty extensive detailing ('specially the carpeting and upholstery.) But for the most part. I'm done, THE END!

    Yaay!
     
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  7. dabard051

    dabard051 Tinkerer-in-Charge

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    Brian, congrats on a tough job done!
    Update on my latest project: Chap, again, my thanks for the 11V304 link. Saved me from making copies of the SA and SR section of the manual whilst I replaced the electric assist steering assembly on the '03 with one from am '02.
    Why? The '03 with 140k miles had a cracked case (!) for the power steering assist gearbox. No sign of external damage; looks to me like an internal failure. Should be an inspection point for all Gen1 owners. Failure mode is potentially fatal.
    I will, at some point, post a picture of the failed unit.
    Lessons learned: If you're doing this on your driveway, support the vehicle with jackstands on the main structural members just behind the big bolts that hold the front suspension plate to the frame, and give yourself as much vertical clearance as you can manage.
    YES, you will (at some point) drop the suspension plate off the car to remove the sway bar and steering mechanism. Be prepared to GRADUALLY drop the (VERY HEAVY) suspension plate down; I used a 2x12 board and a bunch of 2x4 blocks to support it, then carefully lowered by removed the blocks one by one.
    HINT: access to the power steering electrical connectors is a LOT easier if you remove the cat converter and resonator assembly (it's not that hard; 2 bolts on either end, then wiggle the resonator out of the rubber mounts midship)(after loosening with a ratchet, I used a battery drill-driver with 2 3/8 extension shafts to unscrew the cat converter bolts, rather than banging a ratchet around my hand)(this is NOT in any of the manuals). The toughest task is unfastening the screwed-on ground connector from the flimsy bracket... vise-grips are helpful to stabilize the bracket while unbolting with a ratchet.
    When I finished, I went to my local Toyota dealer for front end alignment and torque sensor recalibration (about $200, all told) (and to get confirmation that I did everything right)... and now handles like a dream.
     
  8. dabard051

    dabard051 Tinkerer-in-Charge

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    Followup: Here is a picture of the failed electric steering assembly from my '03 Prius (140k miles). The casing fractured near one of the two bolts that holds the top of the gearbox assembly. From my examination, it looks like an internal failure, as there are absolutely no signs of external damage or impact... according to Toyota, the 11V304 recall service procedure had been implemented on the vehicle (on this steering rack assembly)(date unknown to me), so I presume that the failure occurred AFTER that service, while it was with its previous owner.

    Is there a thread in Gen1 which relates to steering rack issues on the Gen1? I haven't found it, yet...
     

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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I never saw this post at the time, but that looks very much to me like the kind of thing that happens if some past mechanic removes that cap piece for some reason (possibly an attempt to get to the torque sensor), puts it back cockeyed without enough attention to the O ring, and then cranks the bolts down, first one then the other, expecting that to pull it down straight.

    It does not look to me like a thing that happened by itself.