Left work Friday to find that my key FOB wouldn't open the door. Instead of the 2 beep and unlock I would always get from the SKS, I just got a quick beep and the sound of it attempting to unlock, but not all the way. Repeated attempts and using the unlock button on the fob did not help. So I took out the manual key and tried to open it, but that didn't work either. The dealer only gave us one key, and apparently the manual key is a blank. What am I going to do? I tried replacing the FOB battery, but that wasn't the problem. The 12V battery is brand new, so I have no idea why it would suddenly go bad. Would a locksmith even be able to get into it? How can I get a new key cut...am I just going to have to get the lock cylinders replaced? Ugh, what a mess!
I hope any other used car buyers take this as a warning -- if you have never checked or tested your mechanical key, do so right now! Did your fob, or Owner's Manual, come with a little aluminum ring with some numbers stamped on it? This would be a key code, giving authorized key makers the codes to make a new one. And it is probably one of the things least likely to get passed along with a used car transaction.
A tow truck or lock smith can get in, you probably have a dead 12v. Best to use the tow truck so they can give you a jump start too SM-N900P ?
As mentioned - Bad 12V? Or, new 12V not fully charged and car not driven long enough to charge it up? Symptoms as noted indicate a problem with the 12V battery...
I think the symptoms are a perfect match for.......a failed door lock actuator. Try a different door. And/or cycle it through lock/unlock a few times. When they first start failing they often are intermittent for a while, sometimes failing to unlock and sometimes failing to lock. If you watch the button on the inside of the door, you can see that it doesn't move far enough.......or at all. The really bad news is: The replacement cost, out of warranty, is about $600. My first one failed under warranty; the second one is OUT of warranty. Time to look at a trade-in.
I'm pretty certain it's a dead 12v, it's not even attempting to unlock now. I installed it a couple of months ago, is there anything I should look at as to if there is something constantly taxing the battery? Is it a sign the hybrid is starting to go bad? Thanks for the tip on the key code ring. I don't have one on the fob, but will check the manual once I get in.
generally speaking, you should test and charge a new 12v before installing it. too many have been sitting around, and the seller doesn't bother to charge before selling/installing. they may be okay for awhile, but the car is more of a maintainer than charger. it takes about 8 hours of ready time (all at once) to put a decent charge in it. eventually, the borderline charge slips, and you have problems. before looking for another cause, confirm that the battery has a sufficient charge to begin with. it should read 13+ volts, with nothing on, after it has been off for a few hours.
Also, if you never got the aluminum tag with the key number (and assuming nobody ever changed the locks from the factory code), a Toyota dealer should be able to look up and cut a key that will get you in, given your VIN and proof that you own the car. -Chap
If you have a fully charged battery, that subsequently sat long enough (say a day or three) to lose the "surface charge", I doubt it'll be reading over 13 volts. An AGM, fully charged and stable, would be around 12.80~12.85 volts. A conventional battery, similar conditions, around 12.60~12.65 volts. Also, a reputable battery retailer should have no qualms about demonstrating the battery's status with digital load tester. It's in the best interest of both parties. If it's a dud, better to find out at the outset, save a lot of running around.
What tests did you do to come to that conclusion ?? Highly unlikely that the 12 V battery would not operate the door locks but still be able to boot up all the computers and make the car run. A simple voltmeter test of the battery will probably show you that there is nothing wrong with it. DO ALL OF THE DOORS FAIL TO UNLOCK.......or just the driver's door ??
How to check that, though? Unless the OP has a remote-start system installed, wouldn't it be necessary to be able to get into the car? -Chap
Since the OP did NOT mention actually not being able to get into the vehicle.......nor did he mention not being able to start and drive the car......I ASSumed.
All but Mendel, apparently. OP SKS does not work with only fob & mechanical key is a blank. They are locked out of their Prius.
OK a locksmith got me in this morning. It was my 12V. Apparently I left the headlights on, but they have always auto shut-off in the past. I didn't turn them on either after powering down, as I know that prevents the auto shut off. I'll try a load test once I've fully recharged it to make sure it's not faulty. Thanks for your help everyone! p.s. I called the dealership and they confirmed they can order me a new mechanical key using the VIN...thanks for the tip on that !!
How was it determined that the headlights were left on? Certainly not by the switch position, so I'm wondering what other clues could give this away. Absent other clues, I can't dismiss some interior lights left on, or some other problem that may reappear. BTW, headlight auto-off can also be defeated by exiting via another door instead of the driver door.
