Dead 2010

There is a latch under the hatch cover, this is the cover that hides the spare tire. Once you remove the cover, there's a small lever there.

Another way to do it is to get a 12v source and jump start from the engine area. Once you apply power for the jump start, your hatch will have power to open

 

It's there. You need to pivot up the hinged portion at rear of hatch floor. Down an inch or two on the rear wall of the sub-floor well, directly below the latch, is a little pop-out panel:



Pry that off, and inside is a little metal latch you push:

 

you have an owners manual. good luck with ford.

 

Took a bit of digging but yeah, page 73: put a bookmark on that page:


The one thing it doesn't clarify, is that all this is under the hatch floor.

 

best to familiarize yourself with these things before you need them. someone posted about opening the fuse box and learning how to flip back the red cover on the jump post, before you had to do it on a cold rainy night. you wouldn't believe how many sarcastic replies he got.

 

What's motivating you to trade, high mileage, it's just time?

 

Glad you talked yourself down.

At least the knee jerk reaction avoided the Fix Or Repair Daily (isn't Ford an acronym?) automobile.

 

Go buy the battery at CostCo, they're cheaper and better. As for buying a FORD, GL in their hybrid department lol... I only trust Toyota with hybrids since they're in their 4th generation Prius, they know what they're doing. Plus, didn't ford sold their hybrid blue print to Toyota back in the days because they didn't believe in hybrid or that they didn't know how to work it? Not sure if the story is true or not, but I wouldn't trust FORD or Chevy with their hyrbid cars.

 

I believe Ford licensed Toyota's hybrid technology (Gen-2) but since has gone its own way.

 

optima, or any other aftermarket is fine, make sure it is charged before installing. hope your finger is better!

 

I thought it was Found On Rubbish Dumps....

 

What about opening the hood and jumping it with the terminal in the fuse box. Then you can upen the hatch and work in a civilized manner.

Simon

 

My 09 aux battery died back in July as its the factory battery never been changed. It lasted a good 7 years. I couldn't even start the thing. I just went and gotten one of those power packs to get enough juice just get the hatch door open and dropped in a new Duracell battery and back on the road in 20 mins. Good luck with Ford esp GM that are notorious for electrical problems. Toyota has mastered the electronics department as you rarely hear about a Toyota having electrical issues. Fiat, BMW and Mercedes are the worst lol.

XT1058 using PriusChat mobile app

 

Addressed by @JC91006 , but doesn't hurt to pile on.

Dead 2010 | PriusChat

(post #2)

 

You can get the Optima correct for Prius (has skinny top terminals) for around $150 from Amazon and free 2-day shipping if you have Prime. And also no core charge.


iPhone ?

 

Really, all this could of been avoided if you don't wait 7 years and until your battery is totally dead, to begin to understand how to get to it.
I'm surprised the OP didn't have some of the Gremlin like symptoms many report as their 12 volt moves toward failure.
Seems most Prius owner replace BEFORE they are forced to unlock the door with the manual key and "Indiana Jones" their way to the battery.
None of this angst is really The Prius's fault.
My advice would be to replace the battery, step away from the ledge, and in the future maybe not wait 7 years to replace or at least check the 12 volt.
Really, if you got 7 years life out of your OEM 12 volt....you should be singing the praises of Toyota and Prius. That's a pretty good run.

 

Yup, my battery last only 4 years lol, and that's putting 20k miles a year on the car.

 

My 2012 still has the original battery at 95k miles and I've never had any issues. I wonder if the PiP charges the 12V when you plug it in


iPhone ?