Warning lights

Either grab a Mini-vci cable online (amazon, ebay, etc.) or pay someone to pull the codes for you (a local repair shop, or a dealer if you are feeling rich). I bet there is someone locally (Pittsburgh?) that can help you read the codes for little or nothing.

The code readers available at the parts dealers can be helpful, but usually aren't all that complete in the codes read.

 

welcome!
it's probably your hybrid battery. you will need the codes to confirm. how many miles on her?

 

With a 12 year old car, it could be a LOT of things.

You need a "good" diagnosis from a dealer or another shop that specializes in hybrids.
It could be a simple as a 12 V battery going bad; that can sometimes make all kinds of unrelated codes come up.

 

if you want to keep it for a good while, get a proper code reading, learn about new replacement batteries, find your best price and get one installed. at 300k, i would just look for another car, even though the engine has been replaced.
all the best!

 

YIKES !!
It would have been good if you had mentioned that in you initial post.

 

Not likely to be the 12v battery, as the car was being driven at the time.

Some people have had coolant loss from the inverter radiator from stone damage. The inverter overheats, then there are many dashboard warning lights as the hybrid system shuts down.

Similar overheat condition results from a coolant pump failure.

The OP can check coolant levels in both reservoirs and check for turbulence in the coolant reservoir while the car is in Ready mode to check the pump operation.

Codes will need to be read.

 

I'll give you that, mostly, but it depends on HOW the 12 V is failing. It is has a cell or two intermittently shorting out OR it is going completely open internally, either of those things could cause some spikes in the charging system with interesting results.
"not llikely" does not mean "not possible".
While initial checks should focus on other things, this should not be completely dismissed.

 

The car has about 400k miles of wear on it. I think it would be wise to part with the car for $1000 and buy another one.

 

What place exactly ?
And ask them EXACTLY what they are going to do for that price ?
And what they will do differently for the 3 year warranty.
Likely they will do the same thing in both cases and just take an extra $1050 from you for the extra warranty.

 

Just putting in my 2 cents! My 2008 with 245,000 needed suspension on all 4 wheels. The dealer was cheaper than the local guys and they covered two recalls; a steering bolt and the "hybrid battery coolant pump". One month later, I have ABS, VSC, BRAKE and Brake system failure lights on! Coincidence? I tested the 12v and it had a bad cell, voltage was fine amp very low, replaced it. Local shop read the codes and said, "It's a shit load of electrical stuff!" They reset the codes without telling me what they were! 650 miles later...the same lights are back! Could it be the dealer left some air in the system? What else could it be? It could be time to........... Thoughts?

 

...read the codes again (with a hybrid compatible reader).

Please post the codes once you have them.

 

Thanks. Appointment is Thursday. I will post the codes and then we will see!

 

It is called the inverter pump.

HIGHLY unlikely.

Maybe brake actuator failing, and possibly covered by the Warranty Enhancement.
https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2016/05/107118_T-CP-ZG1-A110-D.pdf

If the car has a salvage title, no Warranty is applicable.

 

Sorry for the delay.
The shop was closed for the T-day looong weekend!

The only code is C1343. Hydraulic System(RR) issue.
In August I had the dealer change out the the shocks and struts, all 4. About 600 miles later this shows up!
I looked at the right rear and the brake shoes were not even touching the drum! While the rear was off the ground I had my assistant (11 year old daughter) step on the brakes. The left rear wheel held tight BUT the right rear spun freely, no resistance!
I took it apart. The adjuster spring was broken so I replaced it. While returning the shoes to the axle I noticed the brake cylinder was damp, a very small leak. I replaced the cylinder. I attempted to bleed but do not have the techscan tool or program. Of course, bleeding was not the original issue and the right rear still spins freely with the brakes applied!

Thoughts?
Thanks!

 

Do yourself a favor, buy a Denso Hand Held Toyota Scanner.(about $300) or the Mini-Vic. You'll free yourself from Dealer costs every time you need to scan the car. With either of these you can actuate sub-systems, such as the anti-lock brake accumulator to properly bleed the breaks. How do I know? It because I had to work on the rear brakes of my 2005 and was "stuck" until I bought one of the above tools.