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True solar build possible?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Fuel Economy' started by Jackolebean, Mar 23, 2017.

  1. Jackolebean

    Jackolebean New Member

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    Hey everyone, I just got my first prius, a 2015 prius 2. As any amateur scientist might I immediately got the idea to add solar to it to increase gas mileage. Naturally I scoured the internet and found a big, fat, "no way, it's crazy, never gonna happen". Of course I decided to find out for myself. What I want to do is connect 3 120watt thin flexible solar panels, sourced on amazon, to a small(maybe 50-100ah) battery bank which would charge when the car was parked and the HV was full but would ultimately lead to a dc-dc converter that would charge(even if only a little bit at a time) the HV battery. I'm having trouble finding specs on what would be a safe converter for charging. Obviously this wouldn't put too much strain on the car because it would be charging so slow that the regular hybrid system would be doing it's business with just a slight boost. just 5-10 mpg would be a huge success. the panels are $159 on amazon right now. batteries about $150 for a 100ah 12v deep cycle. Research suggests 4 batteries in parallel for a total of 48v. What I need is someone with the specs needed to safely trickle charge the HV without interfering with the normal operation. I'm a little unclear on what safe amp, watt, and voltage levels would be ideal for a low impact charger. Obviously this weak charge system would need to use about 250-300 watts dc even though the max would be 360 watts because as we all know solar panels rarely charge at full. However the batter bank would add a buffer so as long as it took maybe an hour or two for the bank to drain with no sun the system should be able to last for a few hours of driving before you were running purely off solar.

    If this is completely impossible my other ideas include connecting an oil pan heater to the added batteries to warm the car in winter, possibly tapping into and running some of the 12v system from the bank instead of the HV converter, and even powering the air conditioner from the bank. Any ideas and numbers on inverters or battery management systems(BMS) would be greatly appreciated.

    I've read several guides on safe handling of the HV battery and am 100% confident that if I had the right information I could make this work. Even if I have to turn the car off to safely charge the batteries it would still be worth it to have a full battery every day when I got in the car. especially for under $1000
     
    #1 Jackolebean, Mar 23, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2017
  2. drysider

    drysider Active Member

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    The safe way would be to buy a plug in, either PiP or Prime, and use the solar/batteries to run an inverter and use that to charge the car. Everything would be off-the-shelf and relatively straight forward.
     
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  3. Maarten28

    Maarten28 Active Member

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    No way you will get 5-10 mpg extra from charging the HV battery on a non-PIP. A full charge will get you about 1 mile if you're cautious, so you can drive no more than 5-10 miles before recharging again. Bit if you were to do it, it is relatively easy. To charge a battery you need to put a little more voltage on it than it has from itself. That is when you do not care about overcharging. With the low currents you use the current is not a problem, you just need to stop when the voltage gets to high. I believe the nominal voltage is 201.6, but that might as well be for the 2004-2009 Prius.
    So all you need is a DC-DC converter from whatever your starting voltage is (48 in your example) to a little over 201.6V.
    It could certainly work, but it is not going to give value for money.

    Heating the engine with 360 Watts will do something, but not much I think. And in the winter you have the problem that the sun is low so your solar cells will not get nearly their rated output.
     
  4. Jackolebean

    Jackolebean New Member

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    Thanks Maarten, this is good info. The idea is with a very simple system you would have a fully charged hybrid battery after about 4-6 hours in the morning sun. even if it only adds say 30% to the battery that is still free power and if i can make it operational while the car is running i could shave off a little bit and maybe break even in a year or two. I have already sourced a 100w 12v oil pan heater that goes up to 368 degrees which i will combine with a 12v 55ah battery, 120w solar panel, a smaller 50w solar panel, toggle switch, and thermal control switch to keep the engine at about 180 degrees. I'm still very interested in running as much of the 12v system as possible from the 12v battery bank. I feel like that could really save a lot because it would leave more power for the HV system and require less batteries and solar panels than a trickle charge of the HV. maybe two 120 watt panels would be enough to make a nice dent in the 12v usage. I'm also looking in to dc air conditioning possibilities. I'm thinking I can make my own and feed it into the vent but I have to take a closer look at the vent system as that might be too difficult. Alternatively I could try some kind of peltier air conditioner which is much lower power but doesn't cool very much. Would be good for medium hot days that were in the mid to low 80's perhaps. a DIY A/C would be ideal because I could find the sweet spot between power usage and max cooling. since I could always use the regular A/C to augment it I would still save gas on really hot days.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats and welcome!
    see if you can get the sea papers on the new prime solar roof in japan. should give you a lot of insight. i think they charge a separate nimh battery which in turn charges the hybrid battery which is li-on.

    it's not that it can't be done, it's that everyone gives up when the discover the cost, expense, and lack of helpful knowledge here because everyone here has given up previously.
    no offense, but my bet is that you will give up as well. all the best!(y)
     
  6. DonDNH

    DonDNH Senior Member

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    2 points:
    1. If you want to boost the voltage from 12 to 48, you'll need to connect the batteries in series. Parallel will boost capacity not voltage.

    2. The extra weight you'll be carrying around will likely defeat the small gain in mileage you get.
     
  7. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    THIS.
    Creating an independent charging system to charge the batteries directly is a fools errand.
     
  8. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    1) read up on batteries catching fire, you do not want to charge the HV battery.
    2) aerodynamic drag will hurt MPG.
    3) Toyota covered the roof and did not get enough power to charge the 12 volt battery.
    4) my college robotics team built a solar car, you got out and dtove from the other end to keep the solar cells aimed south.
     
  9. GT4Prius

    GT4Prius Active Member

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    Also, the Prime has its world beating gas injected heat pump for HVAC so that's covered too, and while driving, the solar roof model already is deployed to help run car systems such as ICE and HVAC.

    Ok you can't get the solar model in the U.S. but the Prime would be a FAR better base for your project.

    Plus if you succeeded in a viable cost effective design you could go into business offering conversions!

    P.s. Do you plan to drill the roof to get the power cable through, or use a very thin ribbon cable through the door apertures? I have wondered about the practicality of a roof charging accessory kit that could be relatively easily removed if required leaving no holes or damage. In theory then a less aetodynamic solution could be used and removed for long journeys.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  10. Jackolebean

    Jackolebean New Member

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    My current setup is a 50w solar panel(soon to be upgraded with an additional 120w panel as soon as I test everything when I get the heater in the mail) to a charge controller to a 12v 55ah battery to the second charge controller to the prius 12v battery to keep it topped off when the car is off and I want to listen to the radio. When the heater arrives I will have a switch connected to a temperature controller to turn it on till the car hits 190 then off till about 170. The whole temperature game will be an evolving process to see what the optimal temp is to keep it warm without wasting energy heating it too hot. The heater is 12v 100w. The setup will have 170 peak watts with probably 100-120 in good sun. It should last most of the night after the sun goes down. I have a little 150 watt subwoofer that fits under the driver's seat. That can also be powered by the system so thats a little savings. I'm going to experiment with splicing into individual 12v components and putting a switch that switched from internal power to the battery bank. If the computer isn't too picky and if I do one component at a time I can determine if it's everything or just certain parts. I would be able to flip a switch and turn as many of the 12v components(headlights, wipers, cig lighters, internal lights perhaps) as possible to the battery bank. Things that the car would maybe put up an error message but not affect car functioning then I could get more out of the HV battery because it won't be draining as much into the 12v system which would have a nice clean flow of 360 watts if I deck the car out with 3 panels.

    This is the 50w panel I have on there now. It's fixed with gorilla tape. I orginally got some really strong screw tightened suction cups but when I taped the edges down for reduced drag I realized that a few loops of tape underneath and tape all around the edges looked nice and held the thing on really secure. I will put up pictures once I get more of the system set up and maybe a video for convenience.

    Apparently I can't post a link but if you look on amazon for flexible solar panel you will see what I'm talking about. The technology is really coming far.

    The 120w one's I want were 159 but they went up to 172 which is still only 3 dollars more than a 100w version

    At the end of the day it makes sense to put solar panels on the car and use the power directly rather than store it with the battery acting more as a buffer. Since I do drive at night a good amount I want to make sure to have a good balance of battery storage. Just like with a home setup it's better to have only a small battery bank and to have a grid tie inverter so you don't have to worry about storing enough power for a whole night. This would function similarly in that you would run out of power after a while at night but during the day you would maintain most of the charge essentially bypassing the expensive batteries and using the solar more directly. If you went with a nice 50Ah Lifepo4 lithium battery you would have lower weight, higher storage capacity, and faster charging speed, as most of you know I'm sure. At the end of the day I want to make something that is for alternative energy enthusiasts that will technically pay for itself without a huge multi-thousand dollar up front cost. I guess it could be an awareness spreader. I mean if we all had a few solar panels on our roofs with just a grid tie inverter and the states would actually reward that with credits toward your electric bill we would drastically reduce our fossil fuel home electricity usage for a few hundred bucks per household.
     
    #10 Jackolebean, Mar 24, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
  11. GT4Prius

    GT4Prius Active Member

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    Can you tell me whether you have drilled the roof or how you get the power cable through into the car?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  12. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Put up a grid-tie solar system. That way, all the available solar energy produced will get used by something, even when the car is full and can't take any more. Plus the car can be fully charged even when the sun is not available. And the system's size need not be constrained by the Prius' roof size or load carrying capacity.

    In short, the solar production, and the charging, can be time-shifted to optimize each individual process. Neither process has to wait for the other to be available, so wastage of available capacity can be sharply reduced. Or capacity factor greatly increased.

    Disclosure: I put a DIY grid-tie starter solar system on my house four years ago, and later expanded it (after considerable conservation too) to reach Net Zero. It has more panel spaces open and an additional branch circuit already in place to add capacity for a future plug-in car. Which might happen later this year, if the stars (car availability, demand & pricing, and incentives) align well.
     
    #12 fuzzy1, Mar 27, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
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  13. Samprocat

    Samprocat Active Member

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    140 Fahrenheit is all you need for engine

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  14. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    Keep in mind the new "Solar Powered Toyota Prime" not available for sale in the USA is I think amazing accomplishment, does what the OP is talking about. Somewhere up to ~10% of the miles can be solar with sunlight on the solar roof. What I would like is something like that, but allow the homeowner to hook up a solar panel from the garage roof/12v set up while parked (off grid).

    As far as why not USA? I think price and rollover crash regulations make it harder. Elsewhere we have the overview wiring diagram and logic. There are 2 batts withan auxilliary NiMH which fed the captured power in the Li batt.
     
    #14 wjtracy, Mar 27, 2017
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  15. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    My unfounded speculation: It appear that the EPA's mileage formula is very dependent of weight at the MPG the Prius gets. 65 pound less weight is enough to put the Two Eco in a new MPG range. if the Solar version is heavy enough to get lower Mileage on the EPA test, Toyota can't market it as more fuel efficient. The EPA has no standard for Solar Power, so Toyota can't make claims about that.

    I think selling a solar powered car with lower EPA ratings than the non-solar counterpart will be an up hill battle.
     
    #15 JimboPalmer, Mar 27, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
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  16. Samprocat

    Samprocat Active Member

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    In USA solar cells need to be design so in case of accident they shuttered like windshield.....where in this Toyota design that is not possible....Federal DOT requirement

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  17. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    Well it could be speculation, but I did not make it up. Others here have made the speculation. Toyota does not tell us all of their internal reasons for many things so we are indeed speculating often.
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    any update on the project?
     
  19. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Your batteries and PV panels are already running over $1000, without the inverters, wiring, switches, etc., even if labor is 'free'. At current prices, $1000 is more than 400 gallons of gasoline, or more than 20,000 driving miles that need to be shifted from gasoline to solar electric. With your proposed setup, this won't break even in just a year or two, and probably not even within the life of the car.

    Split this project into separated, independent components. Put your solar electric generation into a home grid-tied system, so that all of the solar capacity gets used by something, car or otherwise. Make it large enough to produce a meaningful contribution. And get a purpose-built plug-in car, which can rack up far more electric miles than the modified car you propose.
     
    #19 fuzzy1, Mar 27, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
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  20. drysider

    drysider Active Member

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    Fuzzy1 has it right. A grid tied system would be more efficient and makes batteries unnecessary. It will also be a lot easier to get installed.