Toyota AC Outlet Supply Accessory (Not charging cable)

The power label on appliances states the nominal voltage rather than the range of actually usable voltages. Your 120v TV won't stop working if the voltage drops to 119, 110, or maybe even 100v.

 

That isn't always true.

 

Those are still nominal voltages. It includes 100v because it can be used in Japan.

Actual voltages in Japan can sag lower so in the US you could get only 108V from some home sockets and in a Japanese house you might only get 91V and that device would probably still work.

 

The usual over/under voltage tolerance is 5%.

 

You wouldn't power your house off an extension cord plugged into the doohickey in the first post, nor would Toyota even suggest it. Now it can run the fridge, small microwave, or boil some water in the event of an emergency.

When you read about a plug in or FCEV supplying power to a home in Japan, it is with the use of an EV power station(EVPS). These are CHAdeMO charging units that can flow the electricity back into the home. They are why the PTD in the Mirai trunk is a CHAdeMO outlet. First year Mirai in the US didn't have one, because the EVPS wasn't available yet. Going by Mirai sales, I don't know if the EVPA ever arrived. Their lack of availability in the US is why we don't get the home power option on the Prime.

http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/eco/pdfs/2012e_02.pdf
NICHICON CORPORATION | Topics | Nissan and Nichicon to Launch the "LEAF to Home" Power Supply System With "EV Power Station"
NICHICON CORPORATION | News Release | EV Power Station Connection Enabled For Electric Vehicles (EVs) from Mitsubishi Motors Corporation, thereby Expanding EV Applications

 

Starting (not running) most refrigerators requires more than 15A of surge current. I had a 1000W inverter that wouldn't start my fridge. It takes a 2000W inverter to do that.

A microwave or hot water kettle usually draws more than 12A at 120v.

Good things to use small inverters for in a house include:

Efficient lighting (CFL, LED).
Small battery charging (phone, flashlights)
Oxygen concentrator if you need one.
Fan on a fireplace (mine draws about 100W).
Small electronics.

 

(V2G) vehicle-to-grid appliances are not the exclusive thing of Toyota. And yes they are certainly more than your run-of-the-mill doohickeys devices, many of which will do 2kW or more. Here's a sweet one manufactured by Mitsu, that will hook up with their plug-in SUV Outlander;



Think of the potential. You could have a solar roof, refilling your Tesla powerwall-type device, & that could fuel your car .... & then you could use your plugin for emergencies.
.

 

That's depends on one's house...you will probably have to make "some" compromises in a disastrous situation.
I was pointing out the special Charge Supply Mode for Japan, giving the possibility of 2 days (or more if you can fill up your tank) of up to 1500W AC source, infinitely better than nothing...
2 days: enough for boiling ~1000 kettles of 1500W rating.

 

I notice it's a CHAdeMO plug.

It'll work for emergencies, but it won't power a house like Toyota highlighted on the Mirai's introduction, nor like the Leaf and iMiEV in Japan can. It's the difference between the tiny generator posted earlier in the thread and a large one hardwired into the house to come on automatically in the event of a power failure.

 

That is at the utility service feed under best-practice conditions, as I understand it.

Non-lighting appliances are typically designed to function at up to 13% below the nominal 120v level (104v) because those non-ideal voltage levels are sometimes seen in real-world locations.

http://www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/mybusiness/customerservice/energystatus/powerquality/voltage_tolerance.pdf

 

I like this whole concept, and have kept a 1000 W inverter on hand with each Prius I have had. It will run my refrigerator, TV, 2-3 lights. When testing out the inverter I have always disconnected incoming house current. I'm not sure what the outcome might be if I left the main CB switch on, when Electric service returns. I can't picture anything good. I can't remember Voltage in Japan being only 100 Volts, I know I never had any major problems with it. I did open a outlet one time and all the wiring insulation was dried out and falling off, if touched. I quickly put the cover back on and told nobody.

 

yes I didn't mean to infer the 100v systems had the same capacity as the CHAdeMO's. That said, look how much larger Hondas V2G is then Mitsubishi's;

Nissan & Honda versions will allow 6kW's to be delivered. That always seems like kind of a waste because if you pull 6kW out of a Nissan Leaf's 21kwh (new/usable) battery pack, i'll be dead in only 3½hours ... even 2kW's lasts only 10½hrs ... & if the battery is 3 or 4 years old, you may only have 8 hours of deliverable juice left.
That's why I admire Mitsubishi's plug in Outlander, because when the battery runs down - the motor turns on & recharges it - meaning you can have a much much longer AND larger power source during an emergency utilizing your CHAdeMO V2G appliance.
.

 

I posted links to Nichicon's press releases, and that unit with the Leaf is also certified for the iMiEV and other Mitsubishi plug ins, though I think the releases might predate the Outlander PHEV. They are hardwired to the home's service panel to provide automatic switchover in the event of an emergency. Nichicon also sells home battery packs like Tesla's Powerwall.

 

It doesn't include building wiring, but properly designed building wiring shouldn't have more than a 2% drop under load.

Of course, old buildings may have not met that criterion.

 

Isn't the charger itself actually a 3.3kW converter/inverter?

 

At the engine compartmment fuse box of my PiP I can see 125A line breaker labeled DC/DC which may indicate the 12V bus protection?
You may have no coice but to look into Prime's fuse box, once your ordered one arrives

 

must be no mosquito's where those people camp.