What "Brand" motor oil do you guys use?

I'm a Mobil 1 guy in just about everything

 

Mobil 1. Walmart seems to usually have the best price.

 

mobil 1

 

Just to be contrarian: Toyota 0W20: cheap as dirt up here, especially bought in bulk. Done 11~12 oil changes so far with it.

 

mobil 1. been using it since 1980.

 

Impressive bisco. That's almost the very start of Mobil1.
Mobil-1 here, and Mobil-1 oil filters too.
I think there are other excellent choices (eg; Toyota) but Mobil-1 wins on convenience availability and plenty of variety in formulation choices.

 

Mobil 1 for vehicles that require synthetic.

Not because it's "better" since if you follow the maintenance schedule it simply will not matter which flavor you use.
Not because it's a little cheaper than "Brand-X" even though it usually is.

I use it because you can buy it just about everywhere that sells oil, or Amazon will deliver a jug of it to my house in less than 2 days, and for less than $26.....and filter elements too if I want.

 

i started with my '72 fiat. bought it with 70k on it and had no idea if synthetic was appropriate. worked great, so i stayed with it. i think it was more like 1976 or 77.
i believe i read about it in pop mechanics.

 

Sounds like what I did about the same time in UK. Thought it looked more like water than the 20-50 gloop I'd been using before in an NSU Nekar, but it kept the cogs revolving OK.

 

mentally, i was telling myself it stuck to the metal, to reduce start up wear. no idea i it was true though.
pretty sure i convinced myself the mpg's were also improved. hard to remember back 40 years.

 

Rightly or wrongly, I've tried to follow the science and guess you did too.

 

as well as i was able to understand it.

 

I've used Mobile 1 for a long time, too, but have also used other synthetic brands like Penzoil, Castrol, and Royal Purple (in the motorcycle). I just got two 5-quart jugs of Valvoline 0-w20 recently since it was on sale for a great price. It'll be my first try with that. I might check the price at Toyota since it's really close to home and their price on the filter was way less than Amazon.

 

i used toyota on the free changes. my mech is at a mobil station so...

 

Another Toyota 0W20 user. The price at the dealership is comparable to Mobil1.

 

Sounds about right...I bet I used Mobil-1 before you, but in those days $5-6 per quart was very expensive. My old Maverick did not really need it.

 

I don’t have a brand preference, but I will insist on oil certified to meet the specifications in the Owner’s Manual (emphasis added):

■ Engine oil selection
“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity.
Oil grade: ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20
SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.​

I’d heard of SAE viscosity grades, but I was curious what “ILSAC GF-5” meant. The American Petroleum Institute (API) defines this standard in their publication API 1509, section Q.5 (1.7 MB PDF), which explains:

The Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association, Inc. and representatives from Chrysler Group LLC, Ford Motor Company and General Motors LLC, through an organization called the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), jointly developed and approved an ILSAC GF-5 minimum performance standard for engine oils for spark-ignited internal combustion engines.

This standard specifies the minimum performance requirements (both engine sequence and bench tests) and chemical and physical properties for engine oils for spark-ignited internal combustion engines. It is expected that many engine manufacturers will recommend ILSAC GF-5 oil. However, performance parameters other than those covered by the tests included or more stringent limits on those tests included in this standard may be required by individual OEMs.​

API 1509 also describes the API’s Engine Oil Licensing & Certification System (EOLCS), which licenses the “starburst” certification mark and “donut” service symbol found on many oil containers. API has a searchable Directory of Licensees and their products, and I wouldn’t accept any engine oil not on one of these lists:

• 0W-20, ILSAC GF-5
• 5W-20, ILSAC GF-5

EOLCS is not just a trademark license; API also operates a monitoring and enforcement program, in which licensed products are purchased and tested for compliance.

 

...another spec to look for is ACEA A1/B1 A5/B5 but the 0W-20 in general do not get that...I think they are too light...but looking at the specs can separate the man from the boys, assuming you have a bottle to look at. I would like to see the Toyota label which is probably pretty good. I also notice manufacturers mess with these formulations so maybe you have a old bottle says A1/B1 but maybe the new bottle does not. It also has to do with whether they are willing to pay for the tests. Some oils say formulated to meet A1/B1 but they are not saying they actually did the test.

 

First, NEVER let a shop change your oil if you are the least bit concerned about getting it done right or have a concern about the brand or viscosity.

Second, I use Mobil 1. It's quality and available everywhere. Toyota does not manufacture motor oil, so consumers cannot have confidence in their product. They re-label. So the forumla/supplier may change. And yes, Walmart is usually a good source for price and availability, although Amazon is convenient. Little known fact: Amazon knows what you order and can jack up the price JUST FOR YOU.

Third, It's a 30 minute job. Don't pay for something that is easy to do. Heck, I done with the oil change in a time period that's 5 minutes shorter than it takes me to make love to the blond bomber, and I have to service her multiple times a week.