Just did tune up and now I have white smoke? Please Help

Maybe it's always been smoking?

Did you torque the spark plugs properly? Make sure it's not loose?

What oem plug did you put in? They are usually pre gapped

 

The plugs very likely were gapped correctly. Did you do anything besides spark plugs? Assuming not:

1. As you well know, there's a lot of wrenching involved into getting to the plugs. I can't think off-hand: but think through the steps, could you have missed reconnecting something??

2. Per JC above, what torque value did you use? Did you use anti-seize? A lot, a little? I would suggest 15 ft/lb torque value with dry threads, or 13 with a very thin application of anti-seize: basically put it on and wipe it off.

 

Yeah I recall. Maybe @NutzAboutBolts should edit that. Spec, with dry threads I assume, is 15 foot pounds. 20 is not too far off though.

I'll attach a couple of instruction files, excerpts from the Repair Manual. Toyota in their wisdom puts the sparkplug instruction in one place, and the torque spec for the plugs off in another section.

The instruction for digging down to the plugs I actually found somewhere else in the book, should make a pdf of that too, next time I stumble on it. It reflects what @NutzAboutBolts covers in his (excellent) video.

 

I would drive it for a day and then recheck. You probably got too much antiseize in there

 

Has this car over heated before?

 

Probably carbon build-up burning away from cylinders that use to have miss fire....and build up in exhaust manifold....take it on highway and go for 40-50 minutes and check again if it smokes

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How did the egr pipe look? Have you gotten a DTC before?

 

Maybe a stuck EGR valve?

 

check your oil and see if its milky looking or not, do an engine compression check and see if there is any leaks in the cylinder... white smoke can be an indication that fluids leaked through the cylinder rings.... any check engine lights? Keep us updated. Also torquing 20 ft. lbs should be ok and shouldn't cause the white smoke... but 15 ft. lbs is the correct torque, I think I put an annotation on it... if not, sorry!

 

The second pdf I posted above, spark plug inspection, includes a check of coils. Doesn't measure resistance though. You put the car in "inspection mode", disconnect fuel injectors, crank engine with spark plug installed in coil and grounded: see if it sparks.

I've attached Inspection Mode instruction:

 

I don't think you can check the resistance of the ignition coils, it was more for the ignition wires that you check the resistance. If your engine is misfiring, you should get a check engine light indication which cylinder it is, then swap a good ignition coil with the bad one and erase the code and see if it comes back with the same cylinder or a different one.

 

The engine is on when it recharge the HV battery or when its off of Eco mode... So your car will turn on, but engine won't kick on until it needs to and when that happens, your engine will have misfires because the ignition coils are removed... or your engine just vibrates. I mean if you have a bad ignition coils, you should have a check engine light. Just swap the coils you think that are bad out with new ones and see if its fixes the problem.