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Can P0A80 code occur without actual hybrid pack failure?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by PaperPrius, Feb 7, 2017.

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  1. Sure, it should last at least a few months.

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  2. Yeah, but I suggest the Prolong Kit.

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  3. Nope, time to get a cheap "refurb."

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  1. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    It fluctuates a volt or two. If you have left it for a couple of hours, it should be completely charged and balanced. Advice from @jeff652 is usually to leave it for 4-6 hours once it fully charges to balance it out.

    First time charging?
     
  2. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    Yep, long time Prius owner, first time balancer. I don't know if you read through this entire thread, so a quick recap: this pack is 12 years old with a guesstimated 360k miles; had code P0A80, but a clogged fan (see 1st picture, earlier in thread); decided to balance while transplanting into an '07 with 145k miles with P0A80 and P3015.

    (EDIT: Plus, the transplant has been sitting for 7 months.)

    I'm coming up on 25 hours on the charger, started at 209 volts, now it's up to 241. It held steady at 240 for several hours, and now it's been at 241 for a couple hours. Optimally, it could go as high as 274 volts, if I understand correctly, though I think the Prolong charger caps out at 250. From what Hybrid Automotive's guide says, peak voltage is 235-240. However, I was under the impression that the unit would automatically shut off once the battery reached its full potential.
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Thanks for the recap.

    I believe you're charged up and can begin the discharge cycle. The unit doesn't shut off automatically, and requires monitoring.

    @WilDavis and @fotomoto for example have documented their reconditioning cycles. You can search for them and it will give you an idea as you go through each charge and discharge cycle.

    Keep us posted (y).
     
  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  5. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    Thanks for the link. Based on that info, I decided to shut down the charger and disconnect it, for now. I also removed the service disconnect, so I'm all ready to finish connecting the battery to the car. Since this is my first time, I'm going to shoot an e-mail off to HA to make sure I've done it right and wait for an affirmative response before I do anything else.

    Unfortunately, I don't trust myself with the light-bulb discharger, and couldn't afford the automatic one, so I won't be doing a full reconditioning at this time. Since it didn't seem to have a problem with the balance, I'm hoping the pack will be okay until the new auto-discharger is available to order. I'll also try to revive the pack with the bad module then, though I'm expecting a rebuild will be necessary for that one.
     
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  6. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    You did it correctly. Charge until the voltage stops rising, then left it run for around 4-6 more hours. Anything beyond that is not needed. The 168 cell Prius batteries peak around 235-245 so it won't normally go any higher than that.

    The charger has to deliver more voltage than the battery can accept in order to work. Otherwise the cells couldn't be forced to their peak and rebalanced with each other. We do this at a very low current so as to not damage the battery. As every battery has a different peak voltage, and the same battery will have different peak voltage from time to time, the charger peak output (250V) has to be higher than any battery should ever reach. This is why the charger can't 'turn itself off' otherwise it would not be able to deliver the benefits to the pack.
    :)
     
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  7. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    Awesome! In the morning, I'll get everything reconnected, and see how she runs. I'll continue to give updates on this thread. Thanks for the help!
     
  8. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    So, I let it sit for about 20 hours. Since the charger was still in the car, I hooked it back up and turned it on, just to satisfy my curiosity. The battery had dropped to 226 volts. Within seconds, it was at 227, so it was probably just below that when I turned the charger on. Then, after about 5 minutes, it was up to 228, and I turned it off. I have no idea what this might mean, besides the fact that the battery is still taking a charge. Dropping 14 volts in 20 hours seems to be a bit much.
    I'm now in the process of hooking everything back up. Before I put all the interior back in, I'm going to drive it around for a while. She's due for an oil change, so I might risk driving to the shop to see how she does with some actual use, rather than just driving around the neighborhood.
     
  9. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    It's alive! IT'S ALIVE!!!!

    After getting everything connected, I turned the car on to accessory mode, and got no error codes, with the MFD showing 7 bars on the battery. So, I started it up, and the engine kicked on for about 2 minutes and shut back down; everything looking good so far. I took it for a run around the block. She seems to be operating well, though the gas engine is on more than I think it should be. However, with a light touch on the accelerator, I was able to keep her in electric mode. A/C and heat are working as they are supposed to be.

    Next, we'll make a short run to the store to get lottery tickets...
     
  10. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

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    Great to hear it's working again and Jeff's charger setup works great (use them myself). I still strongly suggest taking the advice in post #16 because that's the only way to really tell how it is actually functioning while in use. Post a few screenshots and we can help you out with what it all means.
     
  11. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    That's the plan, when I'm not strapped for cash. I'm also a bit confused about what to get. From what I've read, it seems the cheapest option is to get an OBDII scanner which works via Bluetooth, with some special app installed on an Android device.
     
  12. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

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    If you have access to a PC laptop then the mini VCI is definitely the best route and likely under $20.
    Cable can be had off Amazon and Techstream software comes with it (on CD) or if not you can download it quite readily.
     
  13. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    I have a laptop, but can't be taking it on long drives with me. I have a couple Android tablets, however, and even a mount in my Prius to hold one.
     
  14. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

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    The mini VCI isn't really meant to mount in the system permanently unless you have an on board PC running windows. The Techstream software is alot better than the other solutions but the android adaptations are certainly more portable. I just use mine for diagnosis (test drives, I watch and take screenshots while someone else drives) but again all depends on what you're looking to do with it.
     
  15. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    Oh, I'm not looking to permanently mount the system, just looking for portability, without having to buy more devices. The laptop I have is being used as a home computer.
     
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    haven't heard of a tablet that works, but i could have missed it. they say you can pick up cheap old laptops on ebay.
     
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  17. PaperPrius

    PaperPrius New Member

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    I thought I read on one of the threads here that you could use a cheap OBDII scanner with bluetooth connection to an android device with the proper app installed to get the same diagnostics as the VCI.
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can read some codes, but mini vci is only one with prius specific codes, troubleshooting trees and toyota tech info correlation, if i'm not mistaken. it just depends on what problems you're having. you can certainly try the obd route first.
     
  19. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

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    I think Torque will allow you to see some of the battery data but nothing like Techstream using a mini VCI.
    Old PC laptop from eBay is definitely the way to go if you want to actually do any serious diagnostic work.
     
  20. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Ask around friends, family and neighbors first, see if anyone has an old XP or 7 laptop used as a doorstop--there are a lot of those--and trade for a twelve pack or a better doorstop. Then look on Craigslist, and you'll probably see some good ones for $50 to 75.

    You may need some basic software skills to load Techstream, as it might not be plug and play. It comes with no documentation or instructions. And it's not the most robust system on an old laptop. But once it gets running and connected, it's a very powerful tool.
     
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