Hey All, I've read quite a bit here. The members here are really helpful. I've got a 2008 Gen 2 with 131k miles that lit up the dash with the red triangle, vcs and display warning, according to my son who was driving it at the time. By the time I saw it, the VCS was not lit. I used Techstream and got the following codes: P3000 P0A80 P1151 P1116 B1443 First thing I did was check the oil. My son and I have an ongoing battle because he won't check it. It was two quarts low. So, after reading a bit here, I cleared the codes and got the info below using Techstream: A few months ago, I bought a hybrid automotive Prolong and did 3 full charge/discharge cycles because the battery seemed to running with a low bar count and the car felt like I was trying to let the clutch out on a manual transmission while in second gear. The Prolong helped, but didn't bring it back to 'like new'. I have driven close about 30 miles after clearing the codes. No new codes. Battery seems to be cycling reasonably well. I'm no expert on what is acceptable block voltage or internal resistance. 16.03-15.54=0.49V delta. Seems a bit high? There doesn't seem to be 1 or 2 or 3 etc...cells that are low. Internal resistance in the 25 to 27 mOhm range. Is this OK? Could the low oil have triggered this dash fireworks? I'm not sure what to expect moving forward. Any feedback is appreciated, Larry
No response?! FYI, after 200 miles, I have not experienced any codes or issues. I am wondering if anything will occur in the near future. I suppose the codes were related to low oil.
You should still have a weak/failed battery code, p0a80, I would try and ask Toyota for some type of goodwill warranty, they may pay half for the new battery. Or you can replace the failed modules and charge and balance with your prolong grid charger
I expected the P0A80 code to return, but it hasn't thus far. After looking at the data, posted above, I am not sure I see any modules with a hard failure.
Weak modules fail when there's a load. So if your battery power demand is high, that's when it'll fail. You can run the car battery down to 1 or 2 bars with your ac blasting and looking at live data, many times a small load like that would show the weak modules Your pack is also out of balance, with a .5v difference from the end blocks vs middle blocks
Thanks for the response. I don't have much experience with HV batteries, so I don't know how much voltage delta is a problem. The car is running fine now and the charge/discharge rate seems OK, although not like when it was new. I have seen posts about loading the battery, but I already know the battery is on it's way out. Changing 'bad' modules doesn't seem like a valid option since more than half of them are >0.3V below the high voltage modules. I suppose I should look at options for replacing the whole battery, either from scrap yard, remanufactured outlets or the dealer. I guess I should do some research.
Delta SOC I'd at 42. Maximum should be is 20. You've got a failing pack. The error will return. Boulder Hybrids and Mile Hybrid are both reputable independent hybrid shops in Colorado.
How long did you charge the pack? It takes about 24 hours to fully charge the pack with the prolong charger. That way they are all at full charge when you start. Then you'll be able to identify the failing one or two. You won't need to replace that many
Max DeltaSOC should be 20? Good to know. I wasn't aware of that limit. By the way, is there someplace where this type of data can be accessed here? Or do I need to get the Toyota manuals? I charged and discharged the pack over the Christmas holiday 3 full times. Followed the instructions to the letter. It took quite a few days to get it completed. Too little to late, I guess. Should I do it again? The battery does perform much better. Although, the gas mileage has gotten low. Somewhere around 37mpg and I am not driving it hard.
I agree the battery is weak. Delta V among the modules should be less than 0.2 V in a good pack, internal R should be identical. And I agree that one data shot may not show what caused the DTCs. Running the engine oil low by 2 quarts also causes damage, so there's a possible future failure there, too. Consider that when deciding what to do about the expensive battery. Low oil pressure causes a warning on the MFD, often when turning a corner, I hear. I'm not sure if the warning is temporary. The data above show the 12 V battery at charging voltage. What is it at "rest?" If it's near or under 12.0 V, that can cause problems. There are two cooling system codes. Have you checked/changed coolant? Look in the (cold!) radiator cap under the upper splash shield, not the reservoir.
Running the oil that low is a concern for sure and that will influence any future investments that I consider. Is there a single document/guide that provides information on how to interpret the Techstream output for the Prius? I have been able to find pdfs addressing specific DTCs, but nothing comprehensive. I check the coolant fairly often and it is always full in the radiator. I occasionally get a CEL on cold days that goes away when the weather warms. Usually P1151 and P1116 reported at that time. AC code is not a concern for me at the moment. I am starting to think that me and this car need to part ways.
When you check the HV battery with techstream you want to take a screenshot of the voltages (esp min/max voltages) during all 3 operations: hard accelerating, hard decelerating and stopped with all accessories on while someone else is driving. I just use ctrl-alt-printscreen then paste to paint or your favorite photo program. If you have an issue the worst block will show up like a sore thumb when you do this. Post the screenshots and I can explain what to look for.
Replacing the coolant water valve should help with the p1151 and p1116 codes. You battery is failing, and you'll have to decide how to deal with it one way or another. The prolong charger/discharger can help mask the imbalances that occur. But if something has truly shorted, then nothing will fix it. If you part ways with your Prius I encourage you to be fully forthcoming about the existing problems. It won't be worth too much since the battery is failing. For a bit over ~$3,000 you should be able to get the Prius back to full functioning. (New battery. coolant valve) Only you can decide whether that is worth it.
What do you expect for $20? Not documentation, that's for sure. I have an old Bentley's repair manual for Gen 2 that has a comprehensive list of DTCs and INF codes. It's not too good for much else.
If it's an 08 it's still under warranty. The warranty is 10 years from the original purchase date. We had the P0A80 code for my wife's 07 which was purchased on 2/26/07 Longo Toyota just replaced it on the 5th. No charge!!! Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
If he was in CA or another CARB state; is CO a CARB state? If not the warranty will be 8yrs/100,000 mi.
Thanks for all the responses. Rebuilt the front-end of my Mountaineer this weekend so no time to work on the Prius. I'll get back to it this week and respond with some details as discussed above. The Prius is running OK, not great, for now... I am fully expecting more dashboard fireworks at some point in the near future. Yes, the warranty period is over...
I am not expecting documentation for $20. I was simply asking the question on the off-chance that someone has consolidated useful information into a document.
