What tips do you have for storing a Prius for 3 months?

i think you're good. any mouse proofing necessary?

 

Regarding #2 of the items to be performed prior to storage, it is more important to make sure the 12V battery is fully charged before storage, especially in freezing weather. I would be less concerned about the traction battery as long as it is sitting at 6 bars or better.

Regarding #4 of the items to be performed prior to storage, I suggest you effect the disconnection by unbolting the cable that connects to the positive jumpstart terminal.

Remove the cover on the main relay/fuse box. Open the red cover over the dedicated jumpstart terminal. Find the nut which secures the cable to the stud.

You need a 10 mm socket to remove the nut. Then pull up on the cable to remove it from the stud, thread the nut back on the stud, close the red plastic cover, then lay the cable on top of the red plastic. Finally, replace the cover on the main relay/fuse box and close the hood. By doing all of that, you don't have to crawl into the hatch when you return to the car.

Regarding #5, I personally would fill the tank fully to reduce the space available for water to condense within the bladder. However, since the bladder shrinks down as the fuel level drops, you could go either way.

Regarding #2 of the items to perform upon return, I routinely use 44 psi/42 psi for normal driving, hence I would not deflate the tires upon return.

Regarding #4 of the items to perform upon return, I personally would change the engine oil and oil filter prior to storing the car. If the oil is in bad shape, how does it help the engine to have contaminated oil and water condensation within the crankcase for three months?

 

i've been wondering about that patrick, i change my oil every spring. would late fall be better? car sits for 5 weeks in feb/mar, but then, the engine is off a lot all winter.

 

In your case I suggest changing the oil in late January, or immediately prior to the longest storage period. The oil should be changed at least annually if you log low miles.

 

there are quite a few mouse threads here. the problem with traps when you're away is, who's going to empty them. i suppose poison inside and out might help. moth balls, peppermint? but maybe not an issue. we have tons of field mice, and the only thing the cold does is make them try to find a way inside.

 

I'd stick with max sidewall. I think that's how they come from factory, fwiw.

 

And be sure the last time you drive it, you put it away fully warmed up, to reduce condensation in the engine.

 

i pump my tyres to the max sidewall for the 5 or 6 weeks i'm away, then drop them to 42/40 when i get home. and i still get a bit of a flat spot for awhile.

 

If the maximum recommended pressure is 51 PSI, why are you contemplating 60 or 70 PSI? It seems you have a differing definition of maximum to me.

 

I was working on my Prius, disconnected the 12V batter, then shut the hatchback. To reconnect it, I had to use the mechanical key on the driver's door, then unlock the passenger door, then remove kid car seats, fold down the rear back and crawl into the trunk to reconnect the 12V. If you are disconnecting at the engine, good luck, but if you need access to the 12V itself, leave a path.

For storing your gas that long you can get fuel stabilizers, I like Seafoam, but many can help.

Also, I have a car cover for my Prius, (usually for snow) but the generic "any car cover" can be cheap. Good luck with storage and enjoy Thailand!

 

when you get home, let the car warm up 5-minutes and check state of charge on HV batt. What happens if you just pull out and drive after sitting sometimes the HV Batt goes into the purple real fast.

Gaso does not really lose much octane on sitting as far as I know. Using mid grade would correct for that. Stabil would be good but also maybe I would consider E0 if available. E0 not available by me, so sometimes my lawn mower experiences separation of ethanol/water mix.

 

Yes. FILL the gas tank and don't worry about the hybrid battery as long as it is "mid-range" in it's charge.
Stabilizer probably not required but a good idea anyway.

And.....IF you still have the original OEM 12 V battery in the car, it is about time to replace it anyway and when you get back from your trip would be a good time to do that.

 

long term storage tips from toyota tech on hybrid storage

 

I believe toyota says to pull the orange safety plug on the traction battery if you will not be using the car for a while.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Before going to the airport remove the hatch cover and remove the plastic basket that covers the spare tire. Leave them at home. Drop the rear seats down and remove anything in the back.

Way before the trip Spray some lube in the drivers side keyhole. Remove the metal key from the fob and make sure your key works. If you have not opened that door with the key before spray lube in the hole then rock the key gently back and forth till it Free's up and easily opens the door.
It will probably be freezing when you return. I hate WD40 but its perfect for this as its more kerosene then lube.

Then at the airport remove the two12 volt plugs from the 12 volt battery there easy they just unplug by pressing there lock tabs then remove the 12 volt battery back up black box connector which sits right next to the 12 volt battery and if all 3 of those are unplugged the entire 12 volt circuit is disconnected from the car then remove the orange safety switch for the hybrid battery. When these 4 plugs are removed the 12 volt is completely disconnected and so is the hybrid battery. No tools required. NOTE: in order to get to those 12 volt plugs you have to pop off the plastic red cover on the battery. Mines been off for 13 years lol.

Here's why I asked you to remove the hatch cover and leave it at home:
When you return you can easily open the front door with the key and then lay in the back and plug in all 3 wires for the 12 volt circuit then plug in the orange safety switch. Takes like 25 seconds and I'm 65 years old. Its really easy and quick and foolproof. This is actually much easier then trying to open the hatch with the 12 volt dead. That sucks.

It may be dark when you come home leave a flashlight in the hatch hole.

I just did it today I needed some welding done on my g2 today. Never have to open the back hatch.

No tools no wrenching required Toyota has given you all the disconnects you need to disconnect all power to the car.

My way takes literally 30 seconds to restore.

PS: If your 12 volt battery is older then 2 years old you may want to buy a jump pack and leave it in the car just in case.

 

As noted in the video above, get a comprehensive car cover. Be careful about disconnecting and reconnecting the fuse box 12v cable, you could have a bad day if it shorted with the 12v battery still attached. You will also end up with a hot lead dangling. There is a big specialized fuse in the batteries positive terminal that would easily blow and might be hard to get on the spur of the moment.

Personally I would leave a lithium jump pack in the car and disconnect the battery ground. Then use the jump pack to power up the system when you return. Plus if the 12v battery was marginal you might need the jump pack anyway.

The hv battery does not need anything since it is already disconnected by internal contactors on every shutdown.

I would change the oil the day before and again soon after your return. Use the cheap oil before and return to normal on return. The filter could remain in the second time.

Be aware the system may not go to Ready on the first attempt after connection of the 12v battery. Just try again once or twice.