I got an error code that a cell in the high voltage battery was bad so removed it, located the defective cell and replaced it. Afterwards every cell read around 7.9 - 8 volts, and the battery itself 220 volts. I reinstalled the HV battery, replaced the 12v battery, and when I connected the orange service plug nothing happened. No power to the dash or to anything. I read the voltage on the battery while installed and it was bouncing around from 0 volts to 300 and everywhere in between. I disconnected the battery from the car and the voltage now reads 217. I checked the voltage on the cells as well and they all dropped a couple tenths. I have double checked every connection and all the fuses. Does anybody know what's wrong?
Recheck your 12v connections including the 12v battery cable to body ground bolt. You may also want to check the fuse attached to the 12v positive terminal. Your complete loss of power issue is definitely with the 12v system and not the traction battery.
welcome! most likely, you haven't seated the orange high voltage safety connector properly. happens to most people the first time. see you tube for instructions about sliding it up, after locking it down.
Thanks for the help. All the connections are good and the orange service plug is properly seated. I don't suppose there is anything else that could be causing this is there?
i won't argue it then, except 9 out of 10 people who think it's properly seated are incorrect. if it's not that, there has to be something else. are the 12v connections clean and secure, especially neg to ground at body?
Just to make sure, did you: 1.) insert the service plug 2.) fold the lever upward 90 degrees 3.) push straight down on the plug to close the safety switch?
This is our number one reason for post sales customer calls. I ask them if they can remove it by hinging it up without sliding it sideways. 9 out of 10 times they say "Yup, hinges right out". I then explain that the fact that it hinges without sliding means it's not installed correctly. Only at that point do the callers finally understand. I need to make a demo video for this one . . . EDIT: Second most common for a no-start is not pressing the Start button twice.
I was able to get a voltage reading off of it after installing the plug so I'm pretty positive it's seated correctly. Pressed the button twice as well. There just ain't any power. Damnedest thing.
Welp, I started over and went over everything once more to make sure, and although I didn't notice anything loose or unseated, it turned on. Obviously I missed something, who knows what. But thanks everyone for your help. I'm glad it was the simple solution.
So I have a new issue after changing a cell out of the HVB and getting it running again, now the car is very sluggish and hardly accelerates, it also won't accelerate past 40 mph and doesn't really want to decelerate after you take your foot off the pedal. All the warning lights are on, and the error codes I get are: P0AFA P3011 P3022 P0A80 Is it possible the issue is the HV ECU? I'm strapped for cash so I don't want to buy one and have it not be the problem.
i would get yourself a mini VCI setup ( https://tinyurl.com/z8ocly3 ) and use a PC laptop (borrow one if you need to) so you can see what's really going on with your battery while in operation. This will confirm which module blocks are bad, then you can load test them all ( Prolong™ Battery Module Load Tester – Hybrid Automotive ) and you can buy suitable replacements from folks on here.
Thanks, I didn't actually know they made OBDII to USB adapters. I'm going to try that. What software do you use?
X2 (Techstream, same program as the Toyota dealers use) You can see how to install it and what you need here. XP Home or XP Professional with Mini VCI? | Page 3 | PriusChat The mini VCI cable should have a CD with drivers, make sure to follow the proper install order for it all to work.
