Prime electric bill cost to operate

I know.

Can you let it go now ?

 

Reboot?

 

The OPs rate was .17, not mine. I simply said my car charges in 2.5 hours or less.The bar graph from SMUD
shows my usage but unfortunately they have dropped cost, which was also in a bar graph form.

 

How long it takes to charge your car is essentially irrelevant. The cost to charge the car is the number of kWh it takes to charge (probably 7kWh when you figure losses) times your rate.

 

Toyota reported EPA to put 6.33 kWh (25*33.7/133=6.33) in their test score. Some owners confirmed it already. That is from the wall and full charge from 0 EV miles. Can be somewhat higher if starting point is lower SOC into HV.

 

does this include charging losses?

 

I'm not doubting their figure but I imagine that figure is "power delivered to the battery". But it will take more power than that to "deliver" that much power to the battery. There will be some losses for loose sockets/plugs, extension cables, even temperature. Your electric company is billing you for "power from the meter" and there will also be some losses from your internal wiring.

So I just allowed for a small fudge factor. 5¢ one way or the other isn't going to change my life.

 

The EPA requires it to be wall power.

 

Ok 3¢. There are still losses

 

Of course there are losses, but that just means the battery is getting less than 6.33kWh of power for a full charge - by the amount of the losses. What you pay for is the wall power.

 

That is not written often ;-)

(I know what you meant)

 

The battery is gonna keep drawing power until it's fully charged (or whatever the cut-off is), right? But it's gonna take more than 6.33 on your meter to do it. Or are you saying that the draw is limited to 6.33kWh. It don't have access to the real tech docs, so I'm guessing. In my mind, either way, it's a difference without distinction. We're still talking about a few cents.

I'm thinking that what you pay for is power at the meter, not at the wall. Isn't that correct? So depending on what kind of wiring you have and the distance you are from the meter comes into play here.

In any event... my real point here was... it really has little or nothing to do with time. A little for a long time or a lot for a little time ends up basically being the same thing.

 

I'm saying Toyota has to report to the EPA how much wall power it takes to go from 0 Ev miles to full charge. That amount appears to have been 6.33kWh. It's easy to generate this number. It's EPA's gasoline equivalent in electricity (33.7kWh) / reported MPGe (133) * rated range (25 miles). 33,700/133 * 25 = 6,335Wh.

 

Right. So how many kWh is the electric company gonna bill you for to "deliver" 6.335kWh into the plug of the factory charging cable? (That's the title of this thread)

It's gotta be more than 6.335. How much more just depends.

 

Should be very, very close. The only difference is the loss in the house wiring.

 

That's what I said back in post 87

 

kWh is equal to power * time

kWh is a big clue: kW * h

 

plus, there's charging from different levels of the hv portion.

 

That IS allowed for in my statement. It says the "number" of kWH's

You are not understanding. A kWH is an "amount" of power. But whether it take 5 hours or 5 minutes to draw it out of your wall it is still the same thing and costs the same (minus some very small losses).

When you pump 10 gallons of gas into your car, sometimes the pump is fast and sometimes it's slow, but either way you get charged for 10 gallons. Time is irrelevant.

So the point in charging your car is it takes 6.3kWh and not how long it takes to charge your car. So whether you charge with. L1 or a L2 charger (or anything else), you still have to put the same amount of power into the car to charge it. Time is only relevant as the time you have to wait but not to the cost.

 

i have read that there is more efficiency in L2, thus, less losses. or is it L1?