Better to change oil with engine (oil) hot or cold?

I've found the leading underbody panel very susceptible to damage when going too far over curbs: it's not so bad going in, but catches and tears as you back off it. I noticed ours was badly chewed, at the circled zone:



Before:



Repair:



That part, to replace, is currently threatening $400 on Amazon Canada :



Meanwhile, $132.80 on the US site:

 

Nice repair in the above post.

Cut some screen for support and epoxy the break it seems.

FWIW Noting the orientation of the pan's drain plug, I prefer hot with an extending drain time.
Additionally, going to a 1970 Ferrari Daytona I recall the service manual directions to change the oil twice.
Drain, then refill.
Run engine to temp and drain again.
Next replace oil filter and do final refill.
I always termed that an Italian oil change procedure.

 

Which is why you are in the service! Order is everything! I appreciate you and your service!!

 

I use JB weld for things like this also. Works as well and stays put forever.

 

Yeah I've read good things about it. Was using Gorilla 2-part epoxy. Strong like gorilla??

Hmm, on jb weld site, just the plastic specific glues mind you, a mere 8 choices:

Plastic/Composite/PVC | J-B Weld

They need some sort of chart, showing pros and cons of the various products, best application.

 

I've had good luck using ShoeGoo on the plastic parts . It stays a bit flexible, or maybe one of the JB blends stays flexy too.

ShoeGoo air dries and does better with multiple layers, I use three. Maybe JB is quicker and easier since it's a mix of product and a catalyst.

 

Mendel, bummer you need a friend south of the line to have stuff shipped to.

 

Yeah I tried checking shipping for Amazon US site, but they won't ship out of country. In this case a repair is the best route regardless, but maybe I should look into one of those mail box places.

 

I would totally go the repair route. If you have a big order let me know, I am 20 miles south of the boarder, you can even load up on milk and gas from Costco

 

Hmm, on jb weld site, just the plastic specific glues mind you, a mere 8 choices:

Plastic/Composite/PVC | J-B Weld

They need some sort of chart, showing pros and cons of the various products, best application. [/QUOTE]

Sounds like a great idea. Looking to volunteer your services with some of your free time?

 

Maybe when the Gorilla 2-part is done, lol.

 

Can't help but have a big grin at this whole discussion.

I learned a LONG time ago that replacing OR fixing that part was an exercise in futility, at least for me, because both new parts and repairs lasted all of two weeks, if I was lucky.

These days I just let it GO; unless it gets bad enough to hang down so it's obvious.
That has only happened to me once in about 30 years.

 

I have to agree with you. I actually cut the door off the access panel to the oil pan to make oil changes easier. It serves no purpose but to make oil changes more difficult.

 

I doubt that is true. Many things like that are there to direct air flow.....to improve cooling or lessen drag.

 

The only purpose it serves along with the rest of the panels are to lessen drag. Having a 6inch opening has not changed my mpg at all. It also makes the oil changes a breeze. Well worth it

 

Those underpanels both improve air flow and keep the engine bay warmer. It is frustrating, dealing with finicky fasteners and brittle plastic. But doing DIY oil changes, I've kept on top of it. For example, with every oil change, I pull off the entire engine underpanel. I used the "oil change flap" once, the first time, and decided that's not happening: way too brittle. The whole panel is flexing in concert when you try to bend that flap the first time: poor design.

Taking off the whole engine underpanel takes all of 5 minutes, and affords a better view of problem areas, the drive shaft boots, potential leak zones, etecetera. And before reinstall I wash the grit out of all the fasteners, coat the bolts in a little oil.

The repair I did on the at front underpanel is sound, and I think a stitch in time to save nine. Couple that with just avoiding driving too far over curbs, to protect Toyota's problematic design.

 

i change mine warm. If i do it first thing in morning I'll drive it a couple miles down the road and come back and get it on ramps and drain it. I'll let it drain while i take care of some other things... check air filter, check levels of other fluids, vacuum interior, get my tools for getting the oil filter off... etc.. usually about 20-25 mins of draining before i put plug back on

 

Just get the stuff you need from a boneyard. It'll be dirt cheap and just as good