Instructions / tips and tricks 04 prius front and rear struts and passenger side CV axle

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by terramir, Nov 23, 2016.

  1. terramir

    terramir Member

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    Ok, picking up the front KYB struts from fedex, rear ones got delivered to door, was cheaper than buying set of four on fleabay go figure. Then again got a killer deal on the front ones, but even 135 for the rear was cheaper than buying 4 for 300 - 350. Got the McPherson sprung compression gadget, looks straight forward, but I'd like to get some tips and tricks in regards to the procedure. I have the prius 01-12 Haynes manual.
    Several questions,
    #1 I will be inspecting the rear bushings, front plates and bushings hopefully there reusable.
    But I was wondering if there is somesort of rubber treatment/grease to keep them in shape.
    #2 front ones I understand the removal, spring compression, swap cartridge etc. Rear ones look a bit odd in what pictures I have seen.
    #3 how long will this take for someone with only hand tools? i.e. I own an old fashioned needle torque bar. 1/2 with 3/8 adapter. Regular ratchets and a deep metric socket set 8-19mm 3/8 do I need others for this .
    #4 I got a rebuilt axle off eBay because the mechanics keep telling me about a leaking boot. Came with a big nut can I assume it's the one in the wheel that should be replaced each time?
    #5 how much leakage should I expect from the transaxle, replacing this?
    #6 would you replace this while replacing the front strut? Would it be easier if the strut was removed while replacing the axle?
    Any hints tips and tricks appreciated since I am talented in all things fixable, but I have only replaced rear mustang shocks before, changed the transaxle fluid on this one etc.
    I know I can do this, but experience gives away to a wealth of small annoyances I will probably run in to unless you guys tell me to watch out for it.
    Have to replace my struts before I put on my four brand new truecontacts in my living room closet ;-) and get this thing aligned.

    terramir
     
    #1 terramir, Nov 23, 2016
  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    If original struts replace all the rubber stuff and on the fronts
    Replace the top steering bearing. I used kybs and they were ok for about 20k miles then felt like the OEMS.
    spring replacement is very dangerous and at the least
    Requires a good bench vise. Most autoparts stores can swap the spring for u they have a machine. Its dangerous at home
    Because u never have the factory spring compression service tool
    That fits perfectly. One slip and that spring can really hurt u.
    If inner CV drain trans first and make sure u have new trans seal
    If u use old seal trans will leak at the axle. After done park on cardboard for a while to make sure your not weeping at seal.
    Look for leak on fresh cardboard.
    Good luck alot of work very physical.
     
    #2 edthefox5, Nov 24, 2016
  3. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    1) Maybe silicone grease or just silicon spray but it won’t help that much.

    2) Rear ones are basically the same you need to remove back seat and all interior panels from trunk. Then open couple of nuts per strut from inside. Then support the car on jack stands. And the axle bean with something scissor jack and peace of wood is good for this. Then one bolt and one nut will remove the coilover.
    To disassemble it you need spring compressor(s). Especially with hand tools you need good spring compressor. Other option is to take it to shop. I suggest replacing the rear spring while at it since they have tendency to break. Remember to tighten the nut on the bottom only when vehicle is on its wheels with full weight so that you don’t stress the bushing.

    3) 3 hours to full day depending on your working speed and other stuff.

    4) Yes. Check that you have socket that works with both old and new (they might not be the same size).

    6) Yes. All front end work is easy to do at once. Just remove the cowl first then unstake and loosen the axle nut. And then you jack and support the car and start working on it.
     
    #3 valde3, Nov 24, 2016
  4. terramir

    terramir Member

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    I have an old style McPherson spring compressor tool, with the brackets intact and included.
    I understand that compressing a big spring like this is dangerous if you don't do it right. you have to tighten both sides a little at a time if you don't you can snap the spring or the tool. this is the least of my worries. Tightening it one 1/2 turn at a time is a royal pita but safety first.
    That's the part I understand, top steering bearing?
    I can't afford the tops really, if I can avoid it for now I will. The tires and struts and the axel were already 700 bucks plus and well my income is about a grand a month. if it wasn't for those dents in the door it would have been one part at a time. Still was in the hole from hybrid battery rebuilding.

    If anyone here is replacing the struts with top mounts at 50k miles, it would probably be better than mine with 180k on em.
    Could use some used ones younger(in miles) than mine .
    I do have jack stands like three of em so supporting the car won't be a problem.

    terramir
     
    #4 terramir, Nov 24, 2016
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Here are a couple of my posts which address how to replace the front struts and rear shocks. They may be of interest:
    Hints Regarding Replacement of 2G Front Struts | PriusChat
    Replaced Rear Shocks | PriusChat

    Regarding the spring compressors, I hope you are not using the really cheap ones that will slip off the coil spring. Those are dangerous. The ones that I use have locking pins so that they will not slip. This makes the spring compression very easy.

    If you can't afford to buy the strut top bearings, then you can't. It is not the end of the world. However at 180K miles it would be a good idea to replace those bearings as they do wear out...
     
    #5 Patrick Wong, Nov 25, 2016
  6. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    It is best to replace the strut bearings (at top), also the lower ball joints at this time because you will NEED an alignment any way.
    Be DAMNED careful!!!!
    A day, ~8hrs, maybe less depending on your familiarity and tooling.
    Yes, they are considered "single use fasteners" on most cars, although tons of folks reuse them :( PS: Why not just replace the boot???
    Little, if any.
    Absolutely!!! Remove the axle nut, then strut assembly and you should be able to extract the axle shaft easily.
    Spin the hubs by hand and check for roughness/vibration/looseness or noise, replace if ANY of those is apparent. As I mentioned prior, do the lower ball joints while it's apart and check the tie rod ends for play, replace if you can feel ANY play in them.
     
    #6 05PreeUs, Nov 26, 2016
  7. terramir

    terramir Member

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    Hate reviving a 4 month old thread, but since I have not found a place to do the work yet.
    I was advised to replace the top parts at least the bearings, well for the rear since I had a little money to spare I ordered some "top choice" generic rubber pieces on eBay http://m.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-Rear-Strut-Mounts-for-a-Pontiac-Scion-Toyota-Vibe-TC-Corolla-Matrix-/401211228343?hash=item5d6a0d80b7%3Ag%3AVgsAAOSwa~BYYKXD&_trkparms=pageci%253Af23e4251-ff58-11e6-9b35-74dbd180eb4b%257Cparentrq%253A8f892ee415a0a2af77840837ffe97818%257Ciid%253A1
    And at the time they were discounted more paid like $14, and for the front I found Monroe top mounts, I figured in the rear how badly can you screw up rubber parts, as for the front I figured Monroe is a national brand they shouldn't be screwing this up, at 11.80 bucks a piece on eBay it was alot cheaper than what pepboys charges for the pair 23.60 vs 133 bucks, got lucky there. Any input on the longevity of the Monroe and the generic rear rubber parts vs the KYB or originals.
    terramir
     
    #7 terramir, Mar 2, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2017
    SFO likes this.
  8. terramir

    terramir Member

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    Also I see lower ball joints for like 23 for a pair and tie-rod ends for like 40 but then I'll need to buy two special tools as well :(
    cheap parts versus old 180k+ original stuff Hmmm need some advice
    terramir
     
    #8 terramir, Mar 2, 2017
  9. Jmack111

    Jmack111 Member

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    To remove tie rod from shock both the front tire need to be off the ground and a open end lunch and Allen socket Allen socket holds the bolt shaft so you can remove the nut 1488590136785.jpg
    You will need to remove a windshield wiper assembly and the tray under it but not completely just taking access to both of the top you can listen either side it's not spring loaded at this point And need two spring clamps to compress the Big Spring tighten clamps once the spring Wiggles a little you could remove the nut off the top it's under rubber cover not the outside but the inside of the rubber cover the back ones are even easier you can buy them on eBay with the springs but the ones I bought were one inch lower so my car would rub going up driveways ended up replacing the the springs that came with the front shocks with the OEM Springs just for the Clarence the back ones seem to be the same size has the OEM

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #9 Jmack111, Mar 3, 2017
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