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Overheating or 12 volt battery?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016.

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  1. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    I can't figure out why my prius reset trip a and b back to zero. Also, reset reverse to beep on. Thought it was battery but did the diagnosis and battery came up good. Any thoughts? No warning lights came on just reset everything. Drove 109 miles then parked for approx 45 mins then another 109 miles. Parked for about an hour then went to drive and everything zeroed out when I started it.
     
    #1 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  2. AzWxGuy

    AzWxGuy Weather Guy

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    Did you lose your radio presets and driver door auto up setting too? You might want to remove the 12V battery and have it load tested at your favorite local auto parts store just to be sure. I don't think overheating, as in ICE overheating, would cause a voltage drop and reset.
     
    #2 AzWxGuy, Oct 23, 2016
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    How did you test the battery? How old is it too?
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Oct 23, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2016
  4. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    Yes I lost both. I will take it and have the battery tested. Thanks.
     
    #4 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  5. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    I tested the battery with the self diagnostic system in the dash.
     
    #5 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  6. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    I bought the battery august of 2014. It's an optima with a 3 year warranty.
     
    #6 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  7. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    I tested with the self diagnostic in the dash. Bought the battery august of 2014, it'sa optima with a 3 year warranty.
     
    #7 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  8. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    Yes, I lost both. How would I check to see if voltage dropped?
     
    #8 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    You could try measuring the battery's voltage directly, with the car off, with a digital multi meter. You can get a cheap one for around $20. If you do, please post the voltage reading.

    It's not that old, but there's a lot of factors that might impact it's life. A door left open, or just regular infrequent use.

    The next step up in testing would be a digital load tester, Solar BA5 for example. They're kinda pricey, but any reputable battery retailer is likely to have a nice pro version of such a reader, and would be willing to show you the results. A battery might show semi-decent voltage (12.4~12.7) but still be "impacted", ie: not much potential in reserve. This can be referred to as Cranking Amps or Cold Cranking Amps. The Optima battery should have a rating for one or both of those, on top of the case, and the digital load testers can see how they compare to the published ratings. They'll typically come out with a verdict, one of the following:

    1. In good shape
    2. Decent but in need of recharge
    3. Time for a new one :)

    All the symptoms you're having point to a flakey battery, btw.
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Oct 23, 2016
  10. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    Alright. Thanks.
     
    #10 shells2skis, Oct 23, 2016
  11. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    So now the check engine light just came on.
     
    #11 shells2skis, Oct 24, 2016
  12. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    I ran the self diagnostic by having the car in ign on but not ready and pressing and holding the info button while cycling the parking lights on and off 3 times. This is the results:
    LAN Monitor EMV:
    01-DB 190-C7-F
    01-D5 190-27-8
    01-DB 110-20-8

    LAN Monitor Audio
    01-DD 110-6D-2

    LAN Monitor G/W
    01-DC 110-6D-5
    01-DD 110-6D2

    Anyone know what this means?
     
    #12 shells2skis, Oct 24, 2016
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Nothing useful about why the MIL (message indicator light) came on. You need to have the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) read to determine why the MIL came on.

    Have you had your 12 V battery tested as previously advised in earlier posts?
     
    #13 dolj, Oct 24, 2016
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    also check the battery connections, and where the negative cable attaches to the body.
     
    #14 bisco, Oct 24, 2016
  15. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    Had the battery checked 12.58 and under full load 12.55. What would make it charge instead of an alternator?
     
    #15 shells2skis, Oct 24, 2016
  16. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    Had the battery checked. 12.58 and 12.55 under load.
     
    #16 shells2skis, Oct 24, 2016
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    That's not bad. Just voltage, not a load test, that will show the battery's actual CCA. But still, a battery showing almost 12.6 volts should be ok.

    I use a Solar BA5 prosumer level tester, they're around $60 I think? Again, a decent battery store should have that sorta tester's big brother.
     
    #17 Mendel Leisk, Oct 24, 2016
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it is charged by the inverter/converter from the hybrid battery when the car is in ready.

    you checked the battery, but that doesn't mean you don't have a loose connection.
     
    #18 bisco, Oct 25, 2016
  19. shells2skis

    shells2skis Junior Member

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    How would I check for a loose connection? When I reinstall the battery, just make sure everything is tight?
     
    #19 shells2skis, Oct 25, 2016
  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    exactly, and clean. the connection from negative to chassis is especially important.
     
    #20 bisco, Oct 25, 2016
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