Not charging at home - GFI tripped

Should still be under warranty. The dealer replaced mine when it became intermittent. Former owner may have driven over it compromising the cable insulation, or rain may have leaked past the seals on the controller.

 

is it a dedicated circuit?

 

At work, are you using your own charger, or a facility-supplied charger?

If the former, I'd first suspect your GFCI is going bad. They do that, DIY replacement is not hard for folks comfortable with basic electricity. If the later, then no clue, it could be either.

Does the charger have its own built-in GFCI? If so, try plugging it into a non-GFCI outlet. If not, you may be able to plug into a non-GFCI outlet with an portable plug-in GFCI. Not the best long-term solution because Toyota advises against extension cords, but it may help long enough for troubleshooting purposes.

 

Is the circuit 15A or 20A? What else is on the circuit that may operate at the same time as car charging?

Plus, not being a PiP owner, can anyone else answer: Does the charger have its own internal GFCI?

 

Check and see if the GFCI is a stabbed type installation. That means the wiring is simply pushed into holes (stabbed) and not locked in by screws. I've gone/burned through two of these types in our kitchen that needs to pass a lot of current to other receptacles further along the wall that power a microwave and toaster.

 

yes

 

but it can still plug into another gfci, i have not had a problem.

 

agreed

 

I have used a "kill a watt" meter and found that the charger draws about 12 amps max

 

The electrical panel should have labels for the circuit breakers. The 15A or 20A rating will be stamped or embossed in the breaker handle for the Garage circuit. But the light doesn't really matter much, if the garage door opener doesn't run at the same time as the charger, then it doesn't matter what the circuit rating is. The circuit rating would matter if additional devices were plugged in and running.

That means the charger is safe for a 15A circuit, as long as it is not being shared with anything significant. Any measure higher than 12 amps, up to 16 amps, requires a 20A circuit.

 

Get a Kill A Watt meter from amazon $18.56

 

That says to me it's your outlet.

 

use the charge finder website to find free 120v outlets in your area where you can plug in to test your evse.

 

That simply tells us that the light is on the circuit branch protected by the GFCI. It is highly unlikely that the light itself is significant.

Because he isn't using the same charger at work, I don't believe it helps separate the outlet from the charger.

While very useful in general, I don't see how it relates to this particular problem.

 

Have you tried a different circuit in your house? If the cable doesn't reach you can use a 12 gauge extension cord, but don't use the cheap 16 gauge orange ones since you want thicker wiring.