PCV Valve Replacement Questions

It's referred to as "Ventilation Valve Sub-Assembly" * in this, torque value 15 ft/lb, and there's an adhesive spec: Toyota genuine adhesive 1324, three bond 1324 or equivalent. Also, have you watched @NutzAboutBolts video, pinned in the Maintenance section?

(* good 'ol Toyota nomenclature, they do call it PCV and Positive Crankcase Ventilation elsewhere, and in the directory tree of this section)

 

Found this, about a Loctite equivalent:

Where to get Three Bond 1324 (or what is good replacement?)? - NASIOC

And:

Three bond ?? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Get a feeling it's not super critical.

 

but honestly, I consider that almost too much of a good thing/
I would use the blue loctite (242) for a job like this//

 

We didn't use any loctite because its a part that gets replaced every so often. We only use loctite if its a part that we don't plan on replacing because it keeps it sealed tight for good. We just used anti seize to thread it back in.

 

Was thinking the same thing, loctited bolts can be a bear to remove later. Good to hear from the pros!

 

The spark plugs are torqued around 13-15 lbs, I guess its tight enough lol

 

That makes no sense at all. Loctite is used to prevent certain fasteners from loosening due to vibration - it is unrelated to whether or not the fasteners is to be removed on a regular basis. If the OEM calls for a thread locker then it should be used.

 

What is the typical interval for replacing the PCV valve?

 

Ah the personal preference question. Expect many different variants.

I did my 2010 Prius II PCV valve at 120 k and it was still checking.

Some will say every 60k. Some every 90k. But I will do mine at 200 k when I have the intake manifold apart and it is easier to do. So I fall in the "when convenient" category.

 

I was just checking a Honda pcv valve, incredibly hard to get to. I actually did get to it, was able to pull the hose off, and even get a deep socket on it, but was stymied by intake manifold proximity. Shop Manual step one was "remove intake mainifold", which I was hoping to circumvent. Anyway, regrouped, and tested it:

With the car idling, pinch the vacuum hose leading to PCV valve. If you can hear it click with each pinch, it's working. It was clicking. Done.

 

If it were only that easy on the Prius .

 

Thanks, Ray.

 

I can only imagine what the bill for that would be. Probably north of $100 given they will go from the hood and not underneath.

 

I changed mine trying to help solve an oil consumption problem ( I'm trying everything I can think of ). Car had 82K or so on it.

By the way, the NutzAboutBoltz PCV valve replacement video on youtube video was very helpful. Watching it will help you come up with a plan of attack on how to tackle the job.

I did not use Loctite on it...I plan on checking it each time I am under the care to change the oil.

 

Did it help? Too soon to tell? Just curious.

I've read up a bit, see a clogged valve can cause oil use, due to increased air pressure in crankcase.

 

The things I have done so far are listed here :

• Excessive Oil Consumption on 2010 Prius | Page 2 | PriusChat

However, it is still too soon to tell if any of that improved the consumption issue. I will update the thread above when I have more news to report.