Post bearing axle repair roaring....

Toyota manual does tell you to remove the steering knuckle http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/GA8AAOSwHoFXwE77/s-l225.jpg But it’s only removed it to make it easier to remove and install bearing dust deflector (which needs to be removed before the bearing). Actually manual tells you to use press to install dust deflector which can be installed with small hammer.

For bearing manual just tells you to remove the 4 bolts and the bearing (front axle hub sub assy). And then just to install it and tighten the bolts. This would work if you had new knuckle. But old bearing (especially if you have driven on salted roads) can be so rusted in place that it might be hard (even impossible) to remove the bearing with press. After that you need to remove some of that corrosion to install the new bearing.

Bearing is bolted to knuckle with 4 bolts tightened to 56 Nm or 41 ft lbs. But even more important than tightening torque is that bearing is fully seated so clean the corrosion enough. Axle nut is tightened to 216 Nm or 159 ft lbs.

 

Do you know the Torque for the calipers? One Toyota source says 81 ft-lbs while the other Toyota sources says 101 ft-lbs.

My 2008 has been in snowy-salty NYS it's whole life, but the bearings were replaced just 25,000 miles ago. I hope the corrosion isn't too bad after less than 3 years since the bearing was put in. A dealer put in what i presume was a Koyo part so I am angry that it failed in only 25,000miles. (I didn't know the dust shield had to be removed before the bearing.)

I really want to avoid detaching the knuckle from the strut.

 

Caliber bracket to knuckle is tightened to 109 Nm or 81ft lbs. Caliber to bracket 34 Nm or 25ft lbs.

Loosen the axle nut. Free the axle from bearing. Remove the axle nut. Remove the brake parts. Remove the abs sensor (if you can) (if not just leave it). Remove the lover ball joint from lower control arm (2 bolts and a nut). Then you can remove the dust deflector from the back of the bearing with flathead screw driver. Then just remove the 4 bolts and see if you can remove the bearing. Maybe you can get a bit more force if you reinstall lower ball joint? If you can’t remove the bearing then you have to remove the knuckle with bearing and use press.

 

Yeah, as I already stated. Can you cite Toyota documents for 81 ft-lbs? Because every official document online from Toyota about the Prius I can find seems to say 101 ft-lbs, not 81:

https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/rm/RM07X0U/xhtml/RM00000216E002X.html?sisuffix=ff&locale=en&siid=1473578022229

https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/rm/RM07X0U/xhtml/RM00000212Q002X.html?sisuffix=ff&locale=en&siid=1470899190520

https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/rm/RM1290U/xhtml/RM0000012L0020X.html?sisuffix=ff&locale=en&siid=1473630958176#RM0000012L0020X_01_0020

I can post a lot more Toyota.com links saying the caliper torque is 101, not 81. Anyone know why the discrepancy exists?

 

Maybe they changed the torque at some point. I think older manuals have that lover torque value. http://static.hybrids.ru/files/OfficialToyotaInfo/RepairInformation/RepairManual/BR%20-%20Brake.pdf

Anyways bracket will stay on with 109 Nm or 81ft lbs and you have less change of wearing or stripping the threads on caliber bracket. You’re also fine with 137Nm or 101ft lbs.

Most of people won’t even use torque wrench while tightening bolts like these so you’re making too big of a deal out of this.