Hi all! My 2004 Prius has a short-cycling actuator assembly. Finally took it in to Toyota and the codes are C1256 and C1391. Estimated repair bill: 2023.56 + tax. The part number they're showing is 44500-47090. Now, I found a nice '07 actuator with part number 44510-47050. Anybody on this forum know what the difference is between the two actuators and can I use either one in an '04 or do I specifically need the 44500-47090??
Well I got the PN 44510-47050 from a '07 w/52K and went ahead with the replacement. I would recommend the Bently factory manual available for around $50. So I looked up inverter in the index and it wasn't there. But I remembered seeing the R&R procedure somewhere in there. After a while of looking, there it was under changing the O2 sensor. Go figure. So I removed the inverter (simple) and there was the actutator with the PN 44510-47050 on the side. So I ended up with the correct part after all! Unless the different part number is an upgraded replacement. There's a lot of stuff around the actuator. Here are some tips. 1) Be careful of the fuel line jumper. It comes up from the fire wall as metal and then down into the engine as metal and there is a rubber part that connects the two. Two complicated quick couplings are right there. If you bump them you can get a fuel spill, so be careful. 2) Cut a stick that fits from the steering wheel to the depressed brake pedal. This will close off the feeds in the master cylinder so brake fluid will not drain from the reservoir. 3) We disconnected all the pre-formed metal brake lines from both the actuator and the other ends (all 6 of them) and carefully removed them from all the clips but did not attempt to extract them. 4) With one person extracting the actuator millimeter by millimeter, have the other go around and around the actuator moving thing after thing out of the way. The reverse is the same: gently jamb the actuator into the impossible space while a second person carefully moves each item out of the way. It looks impossible, but it is not that hard. You can bleed most of the air right a the manifold block on the firewall. Quickly schedule a full brake bleed at your dealer. They charge 1.7 hours to replace the brake fluid and bleed the actuator and all four corners. New (old) actuator works flawlessly and is 1/2 as loud.
Thanks Steely, Do you mind if I ask how many miles your car has and how did you know you needed on was it the codes, could you hear your accuator getting louder, can you drive for quite a while with it not working properly? TIA...
Greetings..help! I have a 2005 Prius, standard trim and am told at the dealer that I need a rear brake actuator assembly unit and AC compressor. Car has 174,000 miles, hot air blowingout of AC ( theytried flush- it is the original. Otherwise is great!! Brake and ABS light are on but car drives fine! I cannot pay 4K ( cost w labor and parts)--not with this many miles and am looking at a trade in or personal sale with a private mechanic to fix . Found on ebay 1. $ 249 remanufactured Nippondenso AC compressor, manufactur part 42000-0198, ships precharged with PAG oil with one year warrenty. Am told I need a reciever and dryer. Do I buy this seperately? 2. ebay between $125 and $179 " Prius Anti Lock Brake Part Actuator/Pump Assembly, ID 44500-47090, part number 113291, from a 2007 Prius Dooo45, company central autorecyclers-2009 Concord, NH on ebay. ALso, B and R wrecking part # 4632401 and part number 5178160 ( 90 days warrenty) and also a part number 4506162.Will this workout of 2007 or is it beter to get a used part out of a 2005? Can you find a remanufactured brake actuator assembly or woudl they all be used? Is this all I would need? Any advise warmly appreciated!!! Clueless other than taking the car in for routine maintanence.Thanks!!!!!!!! signed...damsel in distress.....Atlantic Beach, FL, email [email protected]
Pump just kept cycling. I got the codes reset at the dealer as part of a free 'read your codes' special. Here in Maine, we have to get the vehicle inspected every year and there can't be any error lights on the dash. That's what finally made me fix the problem. At no time did the brakes give me any evidence that there was anything wrong.
Im know this is a slight old thread, but Steelydev how has the actuator worked for you. I have the same 2 codes and im about to order the part number you gave(44510-47050). I called toyota about the other one (44500-47090) and their quoting me at 1400 for the part and about 400 for install including brake bleeding. The good thing is they will install a used part for the same labor price .
The actuator is working fine. 194000 miles. If your dealer will r&r and bleed for $400 that is a steal!
Well they miss quoted me on labor but the ate most of it. Total was 540$ will brake flush + $100 for the used part. Thanks Steelydev
Looking at the possibility of having to do this myself. Can you guys give me any more helpful tips for the diagnosis to make sure it actually needs this part.
How often does the actuator cycle? If the car's just sitting there and it's cycling every 20 seconds with your foot off the brake, then it's about time.
I had a stupid buzzing sound every time I started the car and hit the brakes as heard on here around the 6 second mark. I didnt change it but heres a breakdown of what to expect That part was hella expensive so I got a used one. I think its $1k+ brand new As far as techstream I had codes and warning light all over my dash.
All the dash lights that indicate a brake actuator failing is happening just came on last night so I am looking for a source on a refurbished -or- rebuild kit for a 2006 Brake Actuator unit. Can you point me in the right direction where I might locate such item? From your video it's seems like a "doable" project in one day. Yes/No? Did you bleed the brake lines yourself? Any other tips? Many thanks. JS
Hold the phone—all those dash lights that might indicate an actuator are the same dash lights that indicate any of dozens of issues with the brakes. Unless the money for an actuator is just burning holes in your pocket at the moment, it might be worth the time to read the trouble codes from the brake computer and find out what it's really trying to tell you about. If you don't have a scan tool, you can get those codes with a skinny piece of wire by counting light blinks, as many posts you can search up here will explain. -Chap
Since you don't offer a location in your profile, could you please share which dealer this was? Thanks!
