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CVT vs ATF

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Mazen, Jul 6, 2016.

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  1. Mazen

    Mazen New Member

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    Hi guys!
    Today I was at service by Toyota dealer, everything was just fine, but when I asked about the vibrations and sound that comes from the engine when starting the car, he said we have to check spark plugs, I told him that I just changed them with double iridium ones 6 months ago, and that I even changed the ATF fluid, but he was surprised and told me that:
    First I didn't have to change it at all (although the car went 330000 km 2010 model) and
    Second that it should be CVT instead of ATF !!!
    Anyone can tell me if that is true and what differences between CVT and ATF ? And how this can affect the car engine and economy?

    Regards
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    In the manual it says to use "TOYOTA ATF WS", and that anything else could cause damage. I'm guessing that's what you used? If so you're fine.

    Toyota does not recommend a transaxle fluid change, ever, which is a bit frustrating. A lot of owners replace it, quite early. There's no harm, and it's fairly cheap.

    Dealership service departments seem to follow Toyota's recommendation for the most part, will call you nuts for considering a change, and are sources of a lot of misinformation on the subject.

    From the North American Owner's Manual, page 563:

    upload_2016-7-6_11-32-25.png

    (Sometimes Toyota says "transaxle", other times "transmission", same thing.)

    And excerpt from the Repair Manual, bare bones description of the fluid change:
     
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  3. Mazen

    Mazen New Member

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    image.jpeg I am still confused
    Do I have to change it again ?
    Last one I changed it was this:
     
  4. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    I would change again with toyota fluid
     
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  5. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I don't see anything on the bottle that says compatible with Toyota ATF WS. And even if there was, I wouldn't use it. This is just one case to stick with the proprietary fluid, no upside to doing otherwise.

    Then there's me: I would change with the Toyota fluid, drive it a day, change it again, drive it a day, change it again.

    That's the drill for a typical transmission that's had contamination, one that drains only 50~60%, so with the Prius transaxle draining about 90%, I'd be more-or-less comfortable with that. But kicking myself.

    OTOH, there are a number of people here who can't resist trying an alternate fluid. Good on them I guess. That's one reason I've no interest in a used Prius though.

    FWIW, I once started dumping motor oil in a Honda automatic. Got about 1/2 cup in before I woke up. Did the three changes drill right after. :oops:
     
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  7. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    The fluid has to withstand about 600V DC. That's why it's "special". It also has to not damage the electrical windings on the electric motor/generators and the insulation therein. It is also a coolant for those motor/generators.

    Better get the correct fluid and change it.
     
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  8. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    +1.

    I'm normally quite skeptical of using proprietary oils and potions, but the CVT in the Prius is a notable exception because if I'm not mistaken the Prius' CVT has stator windings (something a normal CVT does not deal with) which is the main reason that I'm an advocate of replacing the fluid every 30-60K despite the fact that the mother ship calls it a "lifetime" fluid.
    I'm pretty sure that most non-OEM fluids would not cause electrical problems with the windings, but I'm not willing to bet a stator replacement on it, especially when the OEM fluid is available online, and the price difference is insignificant.

    Some things I'm just not willing to roll the dice on..... ;)
     
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  9. Mazen

    Mazen New Member

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    Thanks guys
    I will definitely change it
    What can I expect after that?
    More power? Less consumption? Less noises? Better performance?
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I don't think you'll notice anything. Well just peace of mind. :)
     
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  11. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    CVT = Constantly Variable Transmission The Prius transmission emulates one.

    ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid The Prius transmission uses Toyota's ATF WS.

    A transaxle is just a transmission and differential in the same housing. Many Front Wheel Drive cars use a transaxle.

    Toyota never mentions replacing this lubricant ever, which seems unlikely. As there is no official schedule, everyone has their own idea. I like 30,000 miles, then 90,000 miles then every 90,000 miles.
     
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  12. Robert Holt

    Robert Holt Senior Member

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    I felt that before the ATF fluid change in my eCVT , the starting of he ICE made a more noticeably hard "clunk" than it did after the change, when it again became more of a soft "thunk" as when it was new. I recall one other post that mentioned that same phenomenon. Might have been a level problem or viscosity degradation (the drained ATF at 45,000 miles was quite black), or just my imagination!
     
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  13. bhtooefr

    bhtooefr Senior Member

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    If you're going to use a product from that company, this one claims to meet Toyota's WS standard:

    [​IMG]
    Edit: That said, Toyota ATF T-IV (which is, I believe, a variant of GM's Dexron III fluid) has been used in Prius applications before, though - the Gen 1 used it. That said, is MPM ATF HFM (or, for that matter, MPM ATF LV) actually non-conductive? I could easily see these aimed at some more generic specs, and working fine in T-IV and WS's conventional applications, but not the Prius.

    I'd personally run genuine Toyota ATF WS in this application.

    (It is worth nothing that the MPM ATF LV is also specified for Mercon LV, which likely says what it was originally designed to meet, though... and Mercon LV is what Ford recommends in their power split hybrid transaxles.)

    Edit 2: Except Ford called for Mercon V in their earlier power split hybrids (before 2009) - which would be an application of MPM ATF HFM. In any case, I'd expect better fuel economy from using Toyota ATF WS (or probably ATF LV) - ATF WS was thinner than ATF T-IV.
     
    #13 bhtooefr, Jul 6, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
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  14. Mazen

    Mazen New Member

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    Hi , dears
    I was at Toyota yesterday, they changed the ATF with CVT (they used about 4 liters)
    I really feel the difference with the original CVT, There is no vibration of the motor when the car uses electric force when the main battery is empty.
    I recommend everyone who have milage more 200-300.000 km
     

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    #14 Mazen, Jul 16, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
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  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    well done, congrats! finally some positive feedback for fluid change.(y)
     
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  16. bhtooefr

    bhtooefr Senior Member

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    That's actually not the right fluid either - ATF WS is the right fluid.

    CVT fluid is for the true CVTs.
     
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  17. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I will second the above. The correct fluid for the Prius is this

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Mazen

    Mazen New Member

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    Maybe for the older models of Prius (like 1st and 2nd Gen)

    But I confirm that this was the original Toyota company's advice, and the performance became better.
     
  19. bhtooefr

    bhtooefr Senior Member

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    The 1st-gen takes ATF T-IV, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th-gen take ATF WS. (Verified the 4th-gen myself per the owner's manual in the US.)
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Third gen and fourth gen North American Owner's Manuals say to use "TOYOTA GENUINE ATF WS" fluid, and caution against using anything else. This is an excerpt from the 2016 manual:

    upload_2016-7-16_10-56-36.png

    That said, I've never seen description like the picture you've posted. I wonder if it's in fact the same fluid, or not.

    I would recommend a change, with the correct fluid, quite early, say after one year of ownership, and/or around 10,000~15,000 kilometers. Subsequently changes can be around every 30,000~60,000 km interval, depending on your time and inclination. It's quite easy and cheap, especially for DIY.