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Newb with a 2003

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by FireFighterHill, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. FireFighterHill

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    Bob, ill be careful. I have some experience dealing with HAZMAT.

    Well part of my order came in today. Got the power supply for the Reaktor charger, but no charger yet. Got a brass brush for cleaning corrosion and the dielectric grease came in too. I'm going to go to Walmart this evening and pick up a quart or two of Acetone to clean off all the sealant all over everything.

    Got the old 12v battery up to 12.1 volts. When I get a chance gonna go have it tested. A friend gave me a used battery from a 2013 Prius. Not sure if it will fit. Its a different shape and the terminal are opposite. He said it tested good a few months ago but has been sitting ever since. It only had 4 volts in it when I check it with my meter. Its on my trickle charger now and up to 10.8 volts.
     
  2. FireFighterHill

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    Didn't accomplish much today. Looks like ill be at idle until I either get the Reaktor charger in the mail or until I get some replacement modules.

    What I did accomplish today is to clean more corrosion and clean all the sealant off the bus bar harness's from both traction batteries. I took the harness's apart, soaked all the copper pieces in acid and soaked the plastic pieces in Acetone. I got some spray on battery terminal cleaner and protector from the store. I sprayed it on the module terminals and then brushed them clean with a brass brush.

    I'm going to need to order some ring connectors for the sensing harness. One harness is usable, the other has about 4 broken wires. Anyone know of a good replacement ring connector that fits? I also might need to lengthen a few wire, anyone know the gauge of the wire?

    I'm going to try and give the Cases a coat of paint. Bought some Rustoleum spray paint that was on sale. Just gotta clean the corrosion off the cases sand them a little and ill try putting a few coats of paint, see how it looks.

    Still searching for a cheap 12v battery. I think ive found a good alternative that is sealed AGM and will fit. I will have to modify the connections though. Anyone ever try using a YTX30L-BS battery? I can get one for 60 bucks. Its 30AH 385 Cold Cranking Amps. Dimensions: 6.60 inches x 4.96 inches x 6.88 inches. Polarity: Positive on Right, Negative on Left.

    Picked up some R134A for the A/C. Gonna put a can in and see if the A/C will start getting cold. Now I just gotta search through my storage unit to find the recharge hose.

    My goal at this point is to have the traction battery fixed and back in the car by Friday June 19th. That way I can drive it around over the weekend and if all is good and no problems arise then drive it 200 miles down to West Palm Beach on Tuesday.
     
  3. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    CCA is not important, concentrate on finding a deep cycle AGM. Also, concentrate on 35-40 Ah or better. Finding a battery that can pack all that into the required small package is going to cost a bit more.
    If you have used this on conventional A/C units, then forget about finding it. You need to use a clean set for use on the Prius system and use it on the Prius only. You do not want to cross contaminate and cause you more problems.
     
  4. FireFighterHill

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    The original battery is 28AH and 270CCA. The battery I found is better on both specs.

    Conventional A/C? What are you referring to? I've used it on other cars. The A/C hoses you would use on a building unit, wouldn't fit a car without adapters.
     
  5. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    With a Gen I your fine with using an AC hose that has been used on other cars. The Gen I AC compressor is belt driven. Gen II Prius have an AC compressor run by an electric motor. They use ND-11 that is non conductive. Care must be used to avoid contaminating a Gen II system.

    Why not just use the good harness?

    That should be fine.

    A common problem with the Gen I is the AC compressor clutch not engaging. There is a shim kit (washers) available to to adjust the clutch. Too thick and the clutch will not engage. Too thin and it will not release. The washers install under the clutch center. No need to open up the system.

    Check the orange plug on the battery computer for corrosion. They can start on fire from corrosion.

    That is very optimistic. You have to test the capacity of all your modules. Then you need to get some matching modules. It would be best to get all the capacities within 500 mAh. I don't know that you'll be able to do that. If you assemble a battery with widely different module capacities it will fail again sooner rather than latter.

    Brad
     
    #65 strawbrad, Jun 9, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2016
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  6. FireFighterHill

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  7. FireFighterHill

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    First picture is painting the bottom of the case.
    Second picture is all the bus bars after cleaning them
    Third picture is the Traction pack that came out of the car that only has 0.1 volts in all the modules.
     
  8. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I like this and would suggest extra coat or two with an exterior paint. One common fault is ground fault due to leaked electrolyte. An insulating paint layer could delay it. The only problem is KOH is often used to strip paint. You want a coating impervious to a strong base. Perhaps food wrapping plastic?

    Something to consider.

    At one time I had thought about a fiberglass case.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  9. FireFighterHill

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    An epoxy type paint would be the best to resist chemical. But that stuff is expensive. I'm doing this mainly to stop the old corrosion and so I can see any new corrosion.
     
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Perhaps a 1" wide stripe on each side. I do like the epoxy paint idea and wished I'd thought of it.

    Bob Wilson
     
  11. FireFighterHill

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    Well if I ever take the case apart again to install Gen II or III cells ill consider the added expense of epoxy coating the case. For now I just cant justify the added expense.
     
  12. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    Nice Progress :)
     
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  13. FireFighterHill

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    Well I got some modules in the mail today from our gracious Prius brother in arms Bob Wilson a.k.a. "bwilson4web". The two good modules he sent me get me one step closer to my goal. I now have 33 modules all 7.4 -7.8 volts. I have taken the best 5 modules that are under that voltage and I am going to try and bring them back to life. I paired them up to the closest matching voltage. I have two hooked up in series, under compression in my old traction pack. I have my 1.5amp 12 volt smart charger connected to them as we speak. (Still waiting on my Reaktor charger.) The two I am charging now were about 6 volts each. So together they gave me alittle over 12 volts.

    Right now the charger is putting out 14.7 volts at 1.2amps. So I figure that 7.35 per module. The max it will put out is 14.8volts and 1.5 amps or 7.4volts and 1.5amps. Well within its tolerance.

    Am I doing anything wrong? Do I have to have them under compression while charging?
    I also have a box fan blowing over the traction pack.

    I cleaned off all the corrosion on the traction battery cover, washed it and let it dry. I just gave the interior side its first coat of paint. I plan to give it at least 3 coats top and bottom. White on the top and black on the bottom.
     
    #73 FireFighterHill, Jun 11, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016
  14. FireFighterHill

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  15. FireFighterHill

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    Well the smart charger says the first two modules are charged. Im going to let them rest and then check there voltage randomly for 24 hours, see if it stays in the 7.4 volts or above. I know this doesnt mean they are good, but its a start. I went on to the next two modules. The 5th one ill have to charge by its self. Thinking about picking one of these up to speed up my charging/discharging/balancing X120 120W Touch Screen Smart 6S Balance Charger What do you guys think?

    Painted the top of the case. Someone must have switched caps on the paint, it came out brown. I dont really care what color it is. I might try to cover it over with white. It looks a whole lot better than it did before.
     
  16. FireFighterHill

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  17. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Your money would be better spent on another Reaktor 300W. Or get one of these for $45.

    New TRC 150S105ST 150W IP67 High Power Current LED Driver Waterproof 85 142VDC | eBay

    Led drivers are constant current and variable voltage. They are what the HA grid chargers evolved from. They come in all amp and voltage configurations. That one will go up to 142 volts at a constant 1.05 amps. So in three hours it could pump 3 Ahrs into a series string of 15 modules. It most likely will need a diode in the line.

    With that charging and just one Reaktor discharging you could test all your modules in a day.

    Brad
     
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  18. FireFighterHill

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    Brad, ill add that to my list of future purchases. Do you know if they make a similar one that puts on 285vdc @ 1amp?
     
  19. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    1 amp is high for a LED driver. Most run at 350 or 700 mA. These are more money and hard to justify for just one pack

    What is a good way to charge a traction battery out of the vehicle? | PriusChat

    I understand that you have to prove it for yourself. You will get them up to voltage. Check the voltage after a day and a week. Run a discharge test when you get your Reaktor.

    Brad
     
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  20. FireFighterHill

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    Well I swelled another battery module :( Looks like im going to have to breal open my piggy bank to get some "good" modules.

    Found a new iMax b6 for 15 bucks, ordered it. Im thinking for that cheap, its probably a clone.