Ground wire to Fusible link snapped

You will need to order a new connector from the parts department at a Toyota stealership. It does not appear that
your connector can be repaired

 

Your dealer should have a replacement connector. If the metal contacts do not come separate from the plastic body, ask the dealer to have a tech remove it for you.

Depending on how the bare white wire connects to contacts, you may have to solder wire to the contacts.

Once wire is connected you should be able to slide the contacts in to the plastic body until it locks in place. Then replace connector on fusible link.

 

Fusible links don't have ground wires. Can you provide a photo with a wider view of the area showing where the fusible link goes and what it is for?

 

The metal contact can often can be slid out of the plastic housing after depressing a small tab or tabs. After removal reattach with solder & soldering iron.

 

Whats an "improper ground" wire?

If that's what I think it is its the 12 volt lead off the positive battery terminal 5 amp fuse that goes from that pos terminal to the brake back up battery capacitor assy box right next to the battery. Its broken off because you pulled on it instead of releasing that white clip's connector in its socket. There's a clip you depress on that white clip to release it.

You can connect it directly to the positive terminal by stripping it down an affixing a lug to it but that would bypass the 5 amp fuse. The fact that your calling it an improper ground concerns me you don't know whats going on back there. A Prius can be significantly damaged $$$ wise by
improper 12 volt hook up.

 

That connector is part of the car's wiring harness. Toyota will not stock the connector as a separate part. You do not want to know how much the wiring harness costs. In addition to the repair options already noted, you can try to find a salvage dealer who will sell you the connector with a "pigtail" of wire attached, snipped from a wreck. Then a qualified technician will be able to make a good wire splice. That's much easier than working on the pins of the connector itself. Good luck.

The wire at the connector failed due to metal fatigue from repeated bending, like you can with a paper clip. That connector was not designed for that kind of "switching duty." It's meant to be used only a couple of times in the car's lifetime.

 

Why would you tell someone that? You mean connector F15, part number 90980-10916 right?


techinfo.toyota.com's a wonderful resource. $15 for all you can eat in two days.

Now, it's true they do state that not every part number shown in the EWD will be available through the dealer parts counter. So it's possible that one is non-stocked. You just don't know until you call the dealer with the part number (or put it into Google and see it at toyotapartsdeal for $5.37).

That's also the way Toyota sells the repair terminals. I should mention the part number above is for the connector housing (white plastic piece), not for the wire terminal that clicks into it. Those part numbers aren't in the EWD. Your dealer parts counter person can look up the repair terminal P/N when you give the housing P/N.

The way they sell each repair terminal is: already factory-crimped onto a short pigtail of wire, usually in some color that won't match what you're repairing. That's helpful if you have some damage to the wire end and want to splice onto good wire a few inches back. If the wire is good right up to the end, you might prefer to just crimp a new metal terminal on, click that into the housing, and be done with it.

Toyota parts counter won't sell you the plain uncrimped metal terminal (at least they won't sell it to me). When I want one of those, I go to my friendly local independent auto electrical shop, who sells me one he bought from the same dealer who wouldn't sell it to me.

As you can see from the screenshot above, there's a 'wire harness repair' link that will expand to everything you need to know about how that connector housing works (to release the old broken off terminal and click your new one into place), their accepted splicing techniques, etc.

-Chap

 

The OP and I thank you for the correction.

 

Oh, I don't think I put in any specific link, besides the techinfo screenshot showing the part number. Once you have the part number, you can honestly just put 90980-10916 right into Google and find a bunch of Toyota dealers selling it on line. (The very top thing Google will tell you is that 90980-10916 is 80064 ... it always does that, 'because Toyota went and made their part numbers look like little math problems.)

You can also go with the same part number to the parts counter of your friendly local brick-and-mortar Toyota dealer, and they can probably have the thing for you the next day or so. You might want to do that anyway, because as I mentioned, 90980-10916 is the part number for the white plastic piece. You'll also need the metal terminal that goes in it, and the only way I know to get that part number is to just ask the person at the parts counter, "say, could you please look up the repair terminal part number that goes with connector housing 90980-10916?"

Then, assuming the white plastic housing you already have is not damaged in any way, you don't have to buy one, just the repair terminal.

If you sign up at techinfo.toyota.com you can browse the same Electrical Wiring Diagram document I did, which can be very helpful because it also includes a Wiring Harness Repair section that explains how to unlock the presumably-broken-off old terminal that's still in your housing, so you can click the new one into place. The techinfo access has various different rate plans, the two-days-for-$15 can often save you more than $15 worth of head-scratching....

-Chap

 

Wait, what?

So the entire terminal had just come out of the plastic housing intact, you didn't need to crimp on a new one, it could just be clicked back into the housing?

But then, there shouldn't have been anything you had to pop out of the housing ... I'm missing something ....

-Chap

 

still not even sure if it connects to the battery positive post assy. if it does its the 12 volt to the battery backup band right next to the battery.
You have to press the release tab before you pull on it.