Is there a way to test HV Battery ECU?

It's not the ECU. You would have received a different code.

ECUs fail very rarely, and when they do, fire is typically involved (search this site). HV batteries fail all the time in comparison. Under magnification, carefully inspect.the ECU pins and the voltage sensing harness (orange connectors) for indications of corrosion. The presence of corrosion indicates a potential for subsequent failure.

Did you find a significant voltage disparity when you opened the pack?

Typically the 2 end modules will be 0.05 - 0.20V lower than the middle 26. The middle 26 are typically within .05V or less. Anything outside that range is likely confirmation of the P0A80.

You can also reinstall the battery and conduct the discharge test in my signature and confirm the reduced capacity.

Lastly, severe corrosion of the bus bars AND sensing wires can lead to bad input that can trigger a code. Doesn't happen often, but it can.

Steve

 

IMHO, the smell of a battery is not "barnyard" in nature. It is specific. Having smelled several, it's subtle and consistent.

I suspect your odor issues are more related to fecal matter on the previous driver's boot/clothes.

Your voltages are a little messy. 7.63 - 7.75, and they don't follow the typical spread. Were they taken after the bus bars were removed? If not, I recommend you re-measure directly on the terminals.

Look at the back side of the bus bars. The copper "circle" that contacts the terminal should be relatively clean even if the surrounding area is heavily corroded.

At a minimum, you need to completely clean your bus bars and sensing wires.

You might want to consider the Hybrid Automotive Prolong reconditioning system instead of replacement; however, without a discharge test confirming consistent in-car voltage response, I can't be certain.

 

1) as described in the test; Ready mode, in "D", parking brake set, foot brake firmly pressed, full throttle to charge until it stops charging as described.
2) Not sure.
3) Not really. Capacity distribution in the middle 20 modules is pretty random. IF you knew the individual capacities of your modules, then yes, populating strongest in the center and getting weaker outwards is good practice. If you don't know the capacities, it's a crap shoot. Might make it better or worse.

 

I didn't see that you mentioned it, but you have to remove the ECU to inspect the pins in the orange connector. Best results or had when you use 10x magnification

 

Forget checking ecu, block 5 is the problem

SM-N900P ?

 

Yes (sorta).

The good module in block 5 is probably fine as it was "protected" by the failing module; however, there seems to be a preference for replacing pairs. This is likely due to the assumption that a presumed good pair from another pack will be well matched to one another. This is just playing the odds that a pair will better match each other than a single module with the block's good module.

It's totally chance. If you actually recondition/rebalance, then yes, you have a very good chance of significantly extending the life of your pack. If you just swap in a replacement single or pair, it's a total unknown.

 

I'm quite surprised at the resting voltage of block 5, wouldn't even know a problem existed. I guess if you let it sit a week, the true colors would show

SM-N900P ?

 

This is true in some cases where one or more cells have excessive self-discharge; however, it can just be a symptom of a very weak cell compared to the rest. I have a module that is only 2700mAh capacity and will hold boss voltage for months. If I run the discharge down to 5.4V, the capacity approaches 4000mAh indicating the other 5 cells are carrying the weak one.

 

You probably will get more benefit at this point by using the HA grid charger, as mentioned by S Keith previously (Post #4) before tearing your pack down and doing any replacements.

You've done at test now and got some metrics.

As it is all easily accessible at present, it would still be a good thing to do, even if just for the sake of thoroughness. In any case you cannot categorically make the statement above, it may be a factor. It is not necessarily the factor.

And as an aside JC, can you seriously not change that default sig to say something like "Posted from my SM-N900P" or just blank it out? And why the question mark at the end? Is it not sure what it is? It causes so many noobs unnecessary confusion.

 

Using quick reply in tapa talk, that sm-n900p comes up automatically, only way that I'm able to turn it off is doing non quick replies.

I'll have to look into it some more

SM-N900P ?

 

Ok fixed

 

Most get them from eBay. Total chance.

You need clarification on what's warranted. They need to guarantee CAPACITY, not voltage. If they're just giving a "voltage" warranty, it's a shot in the dark just like eBay, and the wording concerning their "testing" sounds like it's voltage based.

 

I almost always sell modules in pairs.
Because the reality is if you have one bad module now, you will have more in the future.
This way you have a spare and you limit the amount of variables as you replace module in the future.

 

I noticed the main question of this topic still hasn't been answered.
The discussion has quickly shifted into battery modules. I had the same question too, so it may be helpful for others in the future.