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Quantitative Results of Grid Charge/Discharge

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by S Keith, Dec 6, 2015.

  1. Bobakanoosh

    Bobakanoosh Junior Member

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    So why can't I run Techstream on Windows 8? And do I have to run on 32 bit? Or do they offer 64 bit versions of the software and hardware? And where is a good reliable place to download Techstream? I purchased an OBD2 from Amazon to use with Torque Pro because that was cheap and fast, but I am still definitely looking at getting Techstream up and running hopefully soon.

    Jordan
     
  2. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Because it's bootleg. You can go legit and run on whatever you want for what? About $1,000? I think that's a subscription too.

    Torque Pro will probably get you there, just a little more difficult. You'll need a display screen that shows SoC, battery current, min block voltage, min block #, max block voltage and max block #. You'll also need to flag them so they get captured. Also, flag all the 14 block voltages for capture, but don't display them.

    Torque only works on Android. If you're an iphone user, you need to get a friend with an android phone or use an android tablet.

    Steve
     
  3. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Jordan,

    Read: The thread What is Techstream? | PriusChat which discusses how to install Techstream on Win10 64-bit.

    JeffD
     
    #63 jdenenberg, Mar 2, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2016
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  4. Bobakanoosh

    Bobakanoosh Junior Member

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    Where can I find a fairly simple guide to build my own load tester? I already have 2 voltmeters so I don't want to buy the load tester from Jeff for 50 and get yet another voltmeter. Do I need certain wire? A specific bulb or will any 55W 12V halogen car headlight bulb work? And how exactly do I wire the bulb so it will work with the battery? I'm struggling how to get that to work. I've been using the bad module I already pulled out of the pack to try and figure out the load test, but I don't seem to have any success... Wires get hot, but bulb doesn't light up. I got a 5 dollar 55 watt 12V halogen car headlight bulb from walmart with two alligator clip wires to make the connection. I thought the connections were good, but I suppose not...

    Also, I think I just plan on buying a win 7 32 bit laptop if I can find a decent deal. My fiance is wanting one for her Scentsy business anyway so might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone. But with that said, how confident is anyone that I can put Techstream on my current win 8.1 laptop and not get viruses? Is that really a big issue?

    Jordan
     
    #64 Bobakanoosh, Mar 2, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2016
  5. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I'm kinda losing patience with you.

    It is as you describe, but it also involves a human, trying to make a living, putting it together. It also requires the expertise to know how to do it, which you clearly don't have, but you're willing to have us spoon feed it to you, so you can avoid spending a little more money in an effort to avoid a $3,000 repair.

    "I can't see paying for that, so I'll do it myself. Now, please, everybody... tell me how to do it."

    You need to size your wire/clips according to the anticipated current. You need to anticipate the current based on the load and the power source.

    You have Google. Educate yourself and answer the two questions above.

    Now, on to your legitimate question: I believe the issues regarding Techstream/virus are unfounded. MUCH anti-virus reports cracks and hacks as viruses. IMHO, if the virus does not intend to do harm or propagate itself, I don't regard it as a virus. I have no issues with a cracked Techstream on my Win7-32 laptop. I use it for a LOT of other things.
     
  6. Bobakanoosh

    Bobakanoosh Junior Member

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    I get I'm avoiding a $3000 dollar repair (which is only about half that unless you go through the dealer). And I purchased necessary equipment to do the voltage test myself (as I said) and I apparently did something wrong that I don't understand. The wire and clip and voltmeter from HA is NOT worth 50 dollars. That's not tough to figure out. I know I can put one together for cheaper, and with the research that I have obviously already done I have not been successful in getting the load test to work. So when I go asking for answer to a question I just want someone (if they have any idea) to let me know if they have a suggestion for what I can do next. Everyone on the planet is not an electrician, or an engineer, and so obviously everyone can't afford $3000 dollars to fix their battery so they are ALL going to go looking for help so that they can do it themselves. Please do not be rude and make me feel stupid. I know that I don't know how all of this works (otherwise I wouldn't be on this forum to begin with) I'm trying to make this work as inexpensively as I can, and there's nothing wrong with that. Everyone has a different budget, and if I can save 50 dollars building my own load tester then I think that's the best way to go. I'll check your suggestion and see if the wire I have is not enough. Thank you for that. I think I'll download Techstream on my win 8 laptop, and save some more money on an extra laptop if I don't NEED to purchase an extra one. Thanks.
     
  7. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    lol :) what's the voltage of the bulb you purchased? the guys are saying you need a 12v ~ 55w bulb for the individual module test, sounds like your trying to test an individual module with a 120v household bulb, go buy an automotive style bulb.

    You really need to move across to the individual module thread and read all 50 od pages and gain a bit of an understanding as to not blow yourself up, or burn your car to the ground.

    cheers :)
     
  8. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    You're not going to get a new battery that guarantees you have a fix for $1500. DIY will still cost you >$2500 for toyota new.

    I'm sure you see me as rude. I see you as rude. It's to be expected. I can't MAKE you feel stupid (I'm in AZ, you're in UT, I have no power over you at that distance). Those are your own insecurities. You should consider if you have the temperament for DIY or if you should own a car with additional failure points at all as you can't afford the repairs because $50 is a break-the-bank issue.

    Perhaps the materials you state are not worth $50, but a working system is. Jeff has the knowledge to put something together that works. If he puts $10 of materials into an item and spends time putting it together, does it really not have a value beyond its components? Is the work YOU do so valueless?

    How much of your time have you "wasted" doing research and buying materials? What's that time worth to you?

    I think the real issue is that you're pissy you didn't get an easy fix. You feel like you've wasted your money, and you're reacting accordingly. DIY requires patience and diligence.

    You're not just asking for help. You're saying something that will fix your problem has no value beyond the sum of its parts. That's pretty rude. If I'm rude for calling you out on it, so be it.

    Frankly, had you framed it in a respectful way, I would have been happy to make suggestions.

    Concerning use of the Win8 laptop, if it's 32 bit, it may be fine. If it's 64 bit, make sure you follow the instructions JeffD linked.

    Good luck,

    Steve
     
  9. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    The Bill of Materials for the load tester, with the proper clips, meter, CPC sleeving, H4 socket, and on/off switch, is just a hair under $20
    Payment processing fees are 3% off the top
    The Labor I pay my guys is $15-$25 an hour depending on who builds it, and they don't go together with the quality finish I require in only 5 minutes
    Emplyer Payroll taxes are 9% on top of that
    Workers comp is 8.5% on top of that
    Product liability insurance is close to four figures every month
    Our warehouse rent is not free either
    Plus the lights, phone, etc etc etc

    I make very little on the load testers. We make them primarily as a service to help our customers identify failed modules so that their total battery repair costs can be as inexpensive as possible. We encourage people to build their own if they don't want to buy ours. Most people do build their own since they are so easy to make. It's offered as a helpful item, not a mandatory component in the process.
     
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  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Jordan,

    All these questions were answered my previous post (post #60).

    I get the impression that you are one of those people that skim reads, but does not actually take the time to comprehend and digest the information that people are making available to you. Asking the same questions that have already been answered is a sure fire way to have people withdraw from their efforts to help.

    To try and help you, I again answer some of the above questions.

    No-one said that you can't install Techstream on Win 8. It is that the bulk of VMCI on offer come with 32-bit drivers, so it it is easier to install those on 32-bit systems such as Win XP or Win 7 (32-bit).

    If you try and install 32-bit drivers on a 64-bit system it is more complicated and not necessarily 100% successful. So the easy route is install 32-bit drivers on a 32-bit system.

    The good news is there are sellers out there selling VMCI with 64-bit drivers. If you want to install on WIN 8 (64-bit) make sure you buy a VMCI with 64-bit drivers.

    You can download the latest version of the (virus free) genuine Techstream from here, but you will not be able to do anything with it until you have a cable and install the cable drivers to make the cable work.

    The remaining questions see my previous post (post #60).

    Hope that helps.

    PS: My father used to tell me (over and over again, cos I'm a little slow) these two sayings (among others):
    • More haste, less speed.
    • Don't spend a dollar to save a penny.
    PPS: Please don't think I am being rude, because I am not. I just prefer to take a more direct approach than is starting to become common in this PC world we live in. I apologise if that offends you. The alternative is that I won't say anything.
     
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  11. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I was contacted by a local PC member to help him install his HA Prolong grid charger on his 2006 w/130k he acquired in Dec, 2015. I agreed for a small fee, but on condition he allow me to do the entire process myself and conduct before and after Techstream tests as well as follow-on testing (next is scheduled for end of April prior to it being parked for 4-5 months).

    The results were very favorable.

    Short version:
    Before: 38.5% SoH, 0.4V max deltaV
    After: 76.5% SoH, 0.2V max deltaV

    Nearly a doubling of usable capacity @ 15A test load. He left my house with 3 bars on the display following the discharge test. His drive home was about 45 miles. He averaged 56mpg on the drive home. He has never seen mileage that high in the 3 months of ownership.

    Long Version:

    Prior tests have been plagued with inconsistencies due to my efforts to produce a very high load. While successful in that regard, consistency has been out the window. Nonetheless, even those results are favorable given that higher current tests were shown to have notably higher capacity. I have devised a new test using the A/C compressor as the primary load. It is possible to consistently generate loads of about 15A for before and after comparison purposes. I have added a link in my sig concerning the test. It is also intended to permit a user to conduct this test with no equipment beyond a timekeeping device.

    This was my first HA install. The package is well put together and is clearly "drop in". Installing the fan controller is a little involved, but it went very smoothly.

    Since I only had 48 hours to complete the test, I deviated from the Prolong process. I did this because I've done it so many times before with favorable results. Process as follows:
    1. Force charge to 80% SoC
    2. Grid charge to peak voltage of 240V and a pull back to 236V. 14 hours total grid charge time.
    3. 2X 200W bulbs to 180V (missed 185V target) - only 1 hr 40 minutes = 2300mAh extracted.
    4. 2X 25W bulbs to 60V (missed 84V target due to the need for sleep) - about 18 hours - about 2600mAh extracted.
    5. Grid charge for 4 hours
    6. Idle charge until it terminated
    7. Force charge to 80% Soc
    8. Grid charge for 3 hours.
    I opted to shorten the grid charge as the initial deltaV of 0.2-0.4V did not suggest severe imbalance. The abrupt change in SoC slope suggested severe voltage depression. The force charge to 80% SoC reduced the need for an extended "balancing" charge.

    Step 5 was to bring the pack into a safe range for use in the car. Steps 6 & 7 were used to expedite the recharge process. Step 8 was because I took the kids to see Zootopia, so why not?

    Following the grid charge, I conducted a timed-only discharge, which took 6 minutes, 53 seconds. I let the car cool and finished buttoning everything back up. Here are the before and after test results:

    View attachment 107049

    View attachment 107050

    In each chart, I have included a box showing a summary of the results, AND a comparison to the timed-only test linked in my signature.

    For some reason, in the AFTER test, the ICE fired and shutdown immediately. The spike is noted in the chart. I do not believe it influenced the test significantly. The duration was minimal, and the 50A spike to spin the ICE vs. the -10A charge it provided is clearly a net loss.

    In both charts, I have highlighted the region between 55 and 65% SoC. This range is what I typically see in my car in most normal driving. In the BEFORE chart, you can see this region encompasses a good chunk of the SoC line with a steeper slope. To the car, this registers as a more extreme voltage drop for a given current and thus limits usable capacity in the lower SoC ranges.

    Noting the same region in the AFTER chart, 55-65% SoC encompasses only the constant and shallow slope portion of the SoC line. The abrupt drop off is greatly reduced and occurs at a much lower SoC. Additional deep discharges should smooth this out.

    This post will be updated on or about 4/28 with follow-on test results.

    Steve
     
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  12. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    DISCLAIMER:

    At the time of this post (4/4/2016), I have become an authorized installer for Hybrid Automotive. I am eligible to receive a wholesaler's discount on their products. I am not paid by Hybrid Automotive in any way, and any financial interest is limited to the wholesaler's discount.

    I will continue to promote and endorse HA, not because of the discount, but because I believe in the process.

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
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  13. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    Thanks for all the info, and seriously considering getting a HA Grid charger.

    Two... Maybe three questions! First is for S Keith... To force charge to 80% SOC, do you put your foot on the brake and throttle pedals at the same time?

    Second... How much benefit will I see if I do grid charge only versus deep discharge+grip charge? I am a bit afraid of over-discharging my battery (Though I shouldn't be, it seems very straight forward).

    Third, the ScanGauge XGauge that indicates Cell SoC delta... Mine indicates a reading of 0.0 on my ScanGauge... Can that reading be trusted, or have users found that it is inaccurate?
     
  14. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Yes. In"D", stand on brake to prevent foward motion, full throttle.

    IMHO, very little in most cases with the Prius. Grid charging alone will do nothing to restore the capacity lost due to voltage depression. If multiple cells are lagging, you may see benefit from restoring all cells to 100% SoC, but you will still suffer from reduced capacity. Both cars in this thread had negligible balance issues as demonstrated by their relatively tight deltaV. DeltaV didn't start increasing significantly until SoC slope hit the steeper portion of the curve.

    I have personally discharged whole Prius packs to single digit voltages with 2X 25W bulbs in series. I have never observed a negative effect as a result; however, if you have a marginal cell/module, that level of discharge could take it out due to extended polarity reversal.

    If your battery appears to be otherwise healthy (no lights, no major symptoms beyond slight mpg drop), a gentle discharge to 134V (0.8V/cell) will restore a significant amount of lost capacity by reducing voltage depression. Even discharging to higher voltages like 168V or 185V will provide measurable benefit, but it will not be as pronounced as the two tests to 0.5V/cell demonstrate.

    If time, opportunity and patience allow, I will attempt to demonstrate the effects of progressively deeper discharges in the future. I do not see an opportunity to do that on the horizon.

    I can't comment on the scangauge issue.
     
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  15. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply and additional info! I'll just have to dive in with discharging, then! I feel like my pack is probably in decent shape (165k, '08 model) as I can get 50-60MPGwhen I try, and 44-48 when I don't, though I have noticed that once three bars are gone from the battery level, it does drop very quickly after that. It will stay in the green zone to top of blue (down two bars) for a very long time... After the third bar goes, it seems like it empties very fast.
     
  16. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Try the discharge test in my signature on a day where the temp is over 70°F. The prescribed test can give you a good idea of your battery's state of health. All you need is something to measure the elapsed time. Packs can perform surprisingly well down the the 40% level. Below that, problems are much closer on the horizon.
     
  17. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    I'm going to go give that a shot right now...

    Test completed.

    Ambient temperature was 72~F. Battery upper temperature according to ScanGauge was 104F, I forced battery cooling fan to run at max speed using ScanGauge override. (I drove the car today, so battery was already warm.)
    Forced charge battery until it stopped charging as indicated on MFD (ScanGauge indicated SOC was 82.0)
    Turn on low beams(HID since touring), Fog lights (Aftermarket LEDs), rear defroster, AC on LO, fresh air mode, max fan speed, put in reverse with parking brake on, food off brake and throttle pedals. Started timer. (ScanGauge indicated battery current was 12.6~ amps, not sure if this XGauge is actually accurate. With all lights, fans, accessories off, this gauge indicates an idle draw of 0.6-0.8 amps.)

    Here is the ScanGauge indicated SOC by time breakdown...
    0:00 : 82.0
    1:05 : 79.0
    2:00 : 76.0
    3:00 : 72.0
    4:00 : 67.5
    5:00 : 53.0
    5:30 (Engine activated at this time) : 38.0
    Lowest ScanGauge indicated SOC seen was 34.5, about 30 seconds after engine turned on to charge battery. Indicated SOC continued to drop after engine turned on. There was only one purple bar left on the MFD charge indicator.

    Math I did to get capacity : 5.30 x0.095 = 50.35% health.

    Welp. Time for that discharge reconditioning.

    EDIT : I can move this post to the "How to test HV battery..." thread if desired.
     
    #77 Augustus88, Apr 6, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 15, 2016
  18. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Some things:
    • 5:30 is 5.5; 5.5*.095= 52.3% (splitting hairs)
    • Techstream has very consistently reported 14.5A at the start and increasing to 16.5A near the end of the test on two different vehicles, multiple tests on each.
    • I suspect there is some error in the scangauge. If not, then the computation is high and your SoH is even lower. If it was accurate, you are closer to 46% SoH. Additionally, rather than 80-40% that I measured during my Techstream monitored tests, you used 4% more total capacity from 82-38%, so this would drive the state of health even lower by another few %.
    • Potential accuracy issues aside, I believe a conclusion that your battery is measurably deteriorated is valid.
    • Based on my experience, I would expect you would see measurable gains following a "recondition" via the Prolong process.
    • Again, based on experience, with a discharge to 0.5V/cell, you would likely see an approximate 50% improvement. More conservative discharges would also show gains, but I can't hypothesize based on experience.
    Steve
     
  19. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    I have replaced ALL of my lights with LEDs (Front corner lights, rear running lights, fog lights) and HIDs consume 35w~ I believe per bulb vs the 55w per bulb of standard, so that may account for some of the battery current difference reported by my scan gauge. Standard fog lights consume 50w each vs the 18~20w each of the LEDs that I have in there.

    But yes, I'd say around 48-55% SoH would seem to be a good measure.
     
  20. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I haven't made deliberate measurements, but standard low beams seem to pull 0.5-1A when I've been playing with it during Techstream measurements. It's not a lot, but every little bit helps.