I have a 2002 that I picked up cheap last year while working a courier job. Two days ago the dashboard lit up with the warning, check engine, PS, arrow through the car, you name it. It's got a 3008 (?) code, inconsistent battery levels. So I have I guess three questions. 1. With 190000 miles on it is there any chance it's not the main battery? I've watched various YouTube videos that suggest switching relays etc. 2. I bought it for $3000, I'm guessing it's not worth replacing battery?? 3. How long have I got?! I've driven it 60 miles since "I saw the light" runs fine but I imagine that it will just stop here soo
... Flatlining... Clear!...flatlining... Clear!... I regret to inform in you that it was pronounced dead at 7:30 pm. J/k Check your 12v battery. iPhone ?
Well, it does sound like some like HV battery's one or more of the modules are failing or failed. But that is a strange CEL Code. Did you get this from a OBD2 or TIS reader? In any case, you need a more detailed state of your HV battery. Go to the Prius Gen 1 sub forum, allot of info there. Generation 1 Prius Discussion | PriusChat
sounds like the blinker fluid is getting low causing the battery to electroplode.. I would look on craigs list for a local person to rebuild the battery for around $500, or do it your self for around $50 following the you tube videos and order the cells on e bay.. but first remove the 12 volt battery and have it tested...anything below 12 volts under load means it needs to be replaced.
If the car meets your expectations, that should drive your decision. With a Toyota battery, you'll have a one year guarantee on the replacement battery. Rebuilder warrantee varies. Then if you can turn a wrench, you could do it yourself. Use the search function to see what others have done. Fixing the traction battery does not mean another part won't fail (or you won't be in an accident that totals the car.) Used cars are like that so it really comes down to a personal decision based upon your personal situation. Still, we've tried to include some guidance here: Who should and should NOT buy a 2001-03 Prius | PriusChat Having tools, a place to work, and alternate transportation, the rest is just time and motivation. You've found a good resources for Prius expertise. You might consider an independent mechanic by contacting: ACDC Hybrid Shop Program Qualification Process | Auto Career Development Center Bob Wilson
It sounds to me that this might be a perfect candidate for Jeff's grid charger. 3008/inconsistent battery levels means he's outside the .3v variance allowed by the system but, from the sound of it, no cells are dead. Grid charging should restore this capacity. What do you guys think?
The quick way to tell would be to observe the "Energy" display and see if its going from full charge to empty very quickly. Other symptoms of a dead cell would include HV fan always on high and engine revving. If he doesn't have those symptoms, there is no dead cell but rather just an imbalance.
Thank you all for your input. I'll get the 12V battery checked out as the first step. The car is running fine, still, no revving, fan not on high, cruise control has stopped working though, no idea if that can be related.
My input is that if you want to save the current battery that you have, you need to get the grid charger ASAP. If you don't do something quick, this will end up being a much bigger job. Here's the link for it. Prolong™ Battery Reconditioning Package – Hybrid Automotive
Cruise control not working is "connected". When the computer identifies a weak HV (traction) battery it puts the Prius into a "limp" mode where it reduces the use of the HV battery to keep your Prius running until the HV battery can no longer start the ICE and you need a tow. JeffD
We have a lot of Gen1 Prius owners/battery rebuilders using our products. The batteries are quite aged and often a few modules or more need to be replaced. By reconditioning the battery, load testing/replacing failed modules (if any), and then cycling the pack again a couple times to equalize everything, it should not be difficult to get the vehicle back on the road. It's critical to keep maintaining the battery afterwards with regular charge and/or reconditioning sessions or else other modules in the pack will likely follow suit.
This is the part that many people ignore and pay dearly for it by playing "whack-a-mole" as other modules become out of blance or die over time.