Lugs Tightened to Different Torque On the Same Wheel?!

And you pay this guy? Time to get a floor jack, safety stands and some tools.

Are you swapping between snow tires and OEM all seasons on the factory rims? Then you're kinda screwed, for DIY.

 

Harbor Freight is selling click-stop torque wrenches for $12 this week (through 11/30), with a website coupon.

If you want a different quality level, I strongly suspect the other vendors will be having deals too.

 

i've never torqued my lugs, is it important? i can see not over tightening with a gun, but i just snug them down with a lug wrench.

 

If you put some weight into it, but don't go nuts (no pun intended), you're probably close. But for lug nuts, get a 1/2" drive for $20~30, it'll last forever. Torque them in a star pattern, and when done back off the torque wrench setting to 10 lb/ft, before putting it away. They don't like to be left on a high value, or completely loose.

Honda sedans and hatchbacks over the years, always said 80, Toyota says 76 for the Prius, that's what I use.

Our daughter's Pilot says 94, typically more for trucks I guess.

 

A previous car of mine was susceptible to brake disc warp, and other folks with the same model and problem claimed that uneven lug torque was an issue. Once I obtained and used a torque wrench, the problem vanished for the remaining life of the car (many years).

This isn't proof, just correlation. And even if correct, it doesn't necessarily apply to all vehicles, especially those with robust brake disks. But I do it anyway.

 

Over torquing lug nuts can warp your rotors. Replacing the stud is easy if its stripped, you can buy individual studs to replace them. Torque specs I always torque to is 80 ft. lbs, 76 ft. lbs is fine also. Trucks has a different torque specs on wheel lug nuts.

All in all, everyone's answers are correct. good work!

 

my papi taught me to loosen each lug a little at a time, alternating lugs, and reverse when installing. does this still apply? if ever?

 

I would break loose the lug nut while the wheels are on the floor then jack up the vehicle to remove the lug nuts. Then when torquing the lug nuts, you torque it in a star pattern to even out the torque on each nuts or else one side will have more torque than the other and can cause the rotors to warp.

 

thank you!

 

I've heard too, with locking nuts: loosen them first, and torque them last. That can require some real mental aerobics, when deciding where to start the star torquing pattern.

You should do final torque with the wheel back on the ground, kinda the inverse of the initial loosening. I figure leave the parking brake off too, not sure about that tho, just my thing.

I watched a Costco tire installer doing that final torque once, no star pattern for him: just 'round in order. Not good.

 

I been doing it wrong 50 years I recon, don't torque

 

it would be interesting to put a torque wrench on one of mine to see where it's at, just for funsies.

 

That might be possible, but kind of unorthodox use for a torque wrench: it's more for applying torque, not measuring a previously torqued bolt. You could set it, say to 76 lb, then see if you can loosen a bolt, without it clicking. If it breaks loose without clicking it maybe indicates you've under torqued a bit.

 

You're the paying customer. If that's what you wanted? That's what should of been done.

Without using the term "Moron"...I might return to the shop and demand it be done the way YOU want it, and to the spec's Toyota recommends. The way it was initially done.