2007 toyota prius wan't start at all

First check the voltage on your 12 volt battery, and report back. It is likely that your inverter coolant pump has failed going short circuit. Another possibility are you sure you did not run out of fuel?

John (Britprius)

 

Delete - answered above

 

Check for 12 volts under the hood at the jump point then check the dome fuse.

John (Britprius)

 

One other question. Did you try to jump start the car?

John (Britprius)

 

Please answer the questions if you do not we cannot help.

John (Britprius)

 

Now we are getting somewhere. I know you have checked the battery but is the 12 volt supply at the jump terminal. My strong suspicion is that you reversed the polarity and in doing so have taken out at least some expensive fuses "if you are lucky" and 12 volts will not be at the jump point. It is possible you may have damaged the inverter and even some other ECU's, but the only way to know is to do things step by step. I cannot guess where the problem is from a statement of the 12 volt battery is ok.

John (Britprius)

 

1. Can you turn on the headlights? If so, are they bright?
2. There is a good likelihood that your car has an electrical problem. To start working on that, as John already suggested, you need to measure voltage at the dedicated jumpstart terminal in the main relay/fuse box near the inverter. Remove the cover of the box by pressing hard on the latch at the front, and pivoting it up. The jumpstart terminal is under the red plastic cover. Report your voltage readings when the car is IG-OFF.
3. From IG-OFF, when you push the POWER button with the brake pedal firmly depressed, exactly what happens?

 

You need to check the fuses because one or more may have blown. Look in the main relay/fuse box near the inverter and also the fuse box under the instrument panel on the driver's side.

 

I have found that however much I have loved my car and think I know her when I ask these guys for help I listen to them.

I may not always think they are right but in the couple of times I have had to ask I find that if I just listen and do exactly what they ask I find my answer. It is a lot less painful to just trust these guys.

or you could just have the car towed to a dealership and pay out the nose.

 

I had a simular problem recently, my 2004 suddenly stoped working, my door ajar light and the missing key light would come on but nothing would happen when i pushed the power.upon further inspetion i found the 12v buss bar in the fuse box in the engine compartment. just below the 12vpower tap there is a long white rectagle with a glass top, underneathhe power post on the right side of the rectangle there is a fusable link , check it closely mine was burnt in two ( i cleaned the two sides with sand paper and then soldered it back together) everything came rite on. then onother problem arose,,it would run ok for about 30 seconds and then shut off also it showed my main batteries where low "one bar" the engine would go into ready mode with the red triangle of death and verous other red lights. the engine wasn"t charging the main batteries...?? found to be the third fuse down under the rectangle its a 10 amp fuse in the spot for ETCS fuse. changed the fuse and i had a running vehicle. it charged rite up when i went arround the blocki still have the warning lights on but it seems to be back to her old self again 47.8mpg @200+ thousand miles. i have ran it for two days now with no problems....yet. MR FIXXER

 

Usually, the cause of this is that someone botched a jumpstart with reverse polarity, which blows the 100A DC/DC fusible link. Did that happen to your car?

If warning lights are on, it is guaranteed that your car still has some problems. You need to have the DTC retrieved (get Mini VCI if you wish to DIY) to find out what is still wrong with your car. If the car was incorrectly jumped, the DC/DC converter may have been destroyed.

 

I had autozone read my fault codes, there where alot of faults, I don't remember them all but Ihad them reset the system. it said that it erased the faults but the lights stayed on. i still have the red triangle and other lights showing " trouble" but everything seems to be running good. I'm showing 14.2 volts when ignition is on, and my main batteries are in the green, I have been driving it for a week now with no problems except for the lights are still on? am I missing something? I am going to check the code reader again to write down what it say's, I'll post an update asap. Thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure if there was a reverse polarity jump.... I had some "help" once and it could have happend then.

 

If you are measuring 14.2V when the Prius is READY then the inverter (including the DC/DC converter) is working OK.

Although the Autozone code reader may have been able to clear the DTC, if the underlying cause(s) remain(s) then the DTC will be logged again.