Draining fuel pains has anyone done it yet?

Well, the woods are just getting darker before the clearing up ahead, like the morning star....

Just checked all fuses under hood for funnies. All good. Also did a HV service plug remove and relatch / reseat in the middle of above starting attempts.
Guess we are going to check all the HV orange leads for correct installation next. Saw this below post but we are not seing all the same symptoms he did with a bad CVT & bent MG sensor from lead swap improper assy. 06 Prius not starting, low battery? | Page 4 | PriusChat

Boys just said all leads are color coded and due to length are idiot resistant. Tried starting a few more times. Consistiently getting ready light flashing but she never goes into drive. Tried playing with park button also again as I omitted that before. Tried holding brake hard and accelerator to floor but if she never goes into drive ICE wont run.
Yes, I am getting 12.5vdc on aux batt which is fairly new, tried parallel another very good batt and 10a charger. Also tried the under hood lug in breaker & fuse box on DR fender and unpainter engine gnd proper OEM jump procedure.
Most the time boys and I hear only 1 relay close in HV box but he is noting that thre is a lot of relay action like more than normal as in some are dropping out as in commanded open shortly after closing due to some issue I am missing.

Later today I guess I will have them check the double pole brake switch as it can prevent her from going into gear. Like this thread discusses:
will not shift into drive or reverse | PriusChat
If not that not it then since that skid looking dummy light with the car and curvy road is lit on dash maybe the skid computer is wacky?

Think first we are check tHe ICE level for overfill & gonna pull white aux batt connector, reset all codes and try again. Apparently its in ICE fail mode. Very odd happening. Prius would not shift into gear. ????? - Toyota Prius Forum : Prius Online Toyota Forums

Did white plug reset erase, erased all codes only one pending. Checked oil its half way on dipstick. Still no joy. Thinking we need to check into crash reset issues :-(

This is ABS / VCI / ((!)) reset for Prius Gen 2 we will have to do later today also thanks to Paul Haler for posting:
"An ABS light can not be reset without a OBD2 compliant reader with ABS reset capability. Removing the battery leads will not reset the ABS light either. That said however, there is a way to reset the ABS light on a 2nd gen Prius. Find the can 2 bus link/ OBD2 port under the dash below your right knee.When looking up at it you will find a connector with 2 rows of 8 pins each. Connect a jumper between pin 4 (CG pin) and pin 13 ( TC pin) on the OBD2 connector. Starting at the top row reading from left to right, pin 4 would be the pin 4 pins away from the left on top row. On bottom row pin 13 would be 4 pins from the right on bottom row. Connect the two pins using a small paper clip, then put the car into ready mode. It will start blinking the ABS light on the dash and the touch screen display will not look normal. Press the brake pedal 8 times or more in 5 seconds after turning the car into ready mode. Turn off the car and remove jumper. The ABS light will not be on. This procedure only resets the light, not the underlying problem. If the original fault is not repaired the light will come on again. In my case I did a brake job on the car and the abs light came on because I moved the piston back in the caliper. The abs system detected a pressure difference between wheel cylinders setting the ABS light."
Also useful by Patrick Wonk IIRC:
"When you look at the OBD-II connector, you will see that is is shaped like a trapezoid. Look at the longer base of the trapezoid and orient yourself so that is at the bottom of your view. The pins along that row are numbered starting at the far right, so the pin to the far right is 1 while the pin to the far left is 8.

Then along the shorter base which is at the top of your view, the pin to the far right is 9 while the pin to the far left is 16."

Thanks for below to caffinekid:
"I just ran across this same issue with the VSC, ABS, ((!)) and tire pressure monitor lights (but no red triangle) illuminating orange yesterday after starting up the car on a cold morning. Of course I came here first to check it out and noticed that there is no image of the OBD2 port pin placement in this thread. Here is one for future reference:"

GenII OBD2 port


Patrick Wong,
This is what I need? Mini VSI & Techstream:
Fotga Newest V8.00.034 MINI VCI for TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Cable & Software Model: ZB031 Car/Vehicle Accessories/Parts

But I do not have a laptop so we have to lug a PC outside to connect the USB? Any other options for mobile? Torque Pro and my mini ELMS327 / OBD2 Bluetooth adapter (own 2 & 1 full size) is great but we just found its limits so how do I watch out for the reported / (alleged?) Trojan? Finally our PC is WIN 10 now and the old one kinda buried is XP which most comments by IT pros 1 star comments say does not work?!? 32bit WIN 7 & XP according to your past posts only correct ?

 

We do have a older PC running win xp in 32bit, just have to dig it out of desk behind chicken feed.

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We swapped the HV batt packs out with the '04 pack and boys said the '06 pack acted exactly the same in my '04, also reported the '06 pack being heavier (maybe its been changed to a gen 1 / gen 3 pack?). They will use the good '04 pack next to attempt to get the '06 wreck rebuild running correctly. Then we will swap out relays & computer to eliminate. Also asked for voltage reading from all 4 large series lugs internal to suspect pack. Then if not isolated we will get a carbon pile tester & check for high amp cell dropouts.

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With good HV batt IN '06 ICE ran 3 times. 2 times just few seconds once about 10-15 seconds. New faults are:

P2111 powertain throttle control actuator valve stuck open. We will check it physically as the air box above it was cracked & replaced with used one & compare resistance readings to the '04

P3190 Torque web lookup says no DTC code match query.???

 

Thank you Patrick,
Yes, we are proceeding down that path and swabbing that plate area out without spraying any in the intake / plenum area past the plate fter a good visual as they get sticky when neglected and sit a while.

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JeffD,
Really cool!
Would you be so kind as to look that up again and post the link here? Several of us I know would be grateful including me.
Is this it below? I am looking at buying the one with v9.30.002 and saw a lot of hits for v8... & v10...
MINI VCI FOR TOYOTA TIS Techstream on 64-bit OS | WOBD2.COM–World obd2 tool manufacture

 

Saw it but its for v8.00.034

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See above edit post #41 for what I think is the correct procedure above for my intended version.

 

Suspect? Would you clarify please?

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Anyone know if DriveDroid (it does require root :-( ) on Google play store(edit dyslexia) can be used to get this done to run win 7,8,10 + mini VCI? My search hits did not look promising. Reason is I have a transciever and audio chip crippled S4 that could pull this off if it can be done.
The DriveDroid dev site here:
DriveDroid - Softwarebakery
Tons of Lunix variants this page on their list:
http://softwarebakery.com/apps/drivedroid/distributions.html

Oooo! I found it for MS WIN 7:
Windows installation on DriveDroid - Softwarebakery
But the requirements I am severely lacking on:

Requirements for above:
1. DriveDroid v0.7.0+
2. 4GB free space on your Android phone.
3. A PC with Windows 7 and 7-zip installed & freeware Rufus.
4. Diskpart utility (installed by default on Windows 7).
5. A Windows 7 installation disk or ISO.

Only item I do have is:
#2. 4gb on S4 or can make it real fast.
#4 Making a partitian is no biggie but need everything else.

So then I would have to get 2 copies of win 7,
#1. Buy drivedroid v0.7.0+ for $ 2.37 ish @ Play Store then Get freeware for Windows called Rufus here Rufus - Create bootable USB drives the easy way
Using Rufus to create bootable USB images - Softwarebakery
#3. upgrade my xp machine to win 7 with the first install disk then dl a win 7 zip and..
#4. Use Diskpart.
#5. Get a second win 7 install disk or ISO img disk.
Sounds like a headache particularly if my XP copy on my PC might not be valid due to it being given to us without a disk.
But I have this friend whi might be able to help...hummm.

Sir,
We are humbled at this point & seem to be in need of further cell rehab as most cells are not holding amp drain long enough between 8.54-8.76vdc down to 7.2vdc ish to be satisfactory to my or the Prii liking. My searches for something in the correct capacity range on Ebay reveals no affordable options. Therefore since the small desulfators I use take an extremely long time (2-4 months) to work we are in need of plans to build a entire pack (all 28 cells series) high speed oscillator wired in parallel with, & that will not harm a semi or fully automatic "Bonn type Bad boy with manners charger" I am no ele engineer but understand most this stuff fairly well:

Wanting suggestions on either soft peak or square (harsh peak). Think harsh peak is quite a bit more heat producing but faster.
240vdc (1.2amp charger). Using maybe this (for a multiple selection & rotary sw for the taps) transformer:

Metal halide ballast features a 5-tap voltage input for compatibility from 120 to 480 volts. For use with 400 watt lamps, this magnetic HID ballast boasts a high power factor of 90%, ensuring maximum efficiency. A temperature rating of 221 degrees F makes the ballast suitable for mounting in warehouses and manufacturing facilities where high heat may be an issue."
Spec sheet says req'd 24 microfarad capacitor. Packaged usually with this cap by Phillips 7C240P40-R. Is this thing around 20khz ish maybe ?

1.5-1.6amp discharge rate (desulfator). Net .3-.4amp discharge rate with cycling in (6-8min cycle intervals?)
Min 10khz (wanting input for other freq & wave PWM modulation specs to achieve higher speed). Curious what the magnetic ballast provides in Phillips Advance above in transformer. Maybe 20khz?
Min operation voltage 155vdc.

We can do this if necessary with shared Google Drive files or Dropbox, copy mega etc. But want to keep it public for others to use freely.

We want to build what is kinda like a baby brother or a low tech solid state / analog version of this unit sold in NZ.

 

Yes, am looking at one local in a few minutes.

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Guy lied in his ad said had 2 HV batts but only "rebuilds" overnight, he only had 20 good cells holding 7.6vdc. Was a painful conversation for him and pissed me off when he questioned everything I said then ended up agreeing quickly.
After a cell top off we read 207vdc at the relays so we got the '06 running a little rough but smoothed out by (sounds like she needs a tuneup) flooring it when she stayed in gear with emerg brake on and ran about 2.5 minutes, charged HV all green then ICE shut down about 30 sec from cooling fan coming on and tried to restart after driving under HV power down the street but went into ICE lockout again about 1/4 mile later and drained the HV batt to one bar so we pushed her back.

Anyway, this the the grid charger we ordered today for both gen 2's. The PriusChat Shop was impossible to find with tapatalk quickly:
Hybrid Battery Preventative Maintenance Grid Charger for 2004-2009 Toyota Prius - PriusChat Shop
$399 + $ 16 shipping= $ 415.
Convienient safe checkout with Paypal option.
Also here:
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=161323094245&alt=web
$ 445 inc shipping.

Edit after getting some food which steadied my meter probe hands allowing correct readings:
Just checked all 4 '06 COP (Coil On Plug) coils & 1 from the '04 If I am reading correct primaries all have 350.1 ohms from the two prongs closest to near side without any part number and about 34.4k-35.1k ohms across the two prongs furtherest apart. Coils look good no corrosion on contacts or cracking in bodies. Plugs are NGK fine wire iridium IFR5A @ .042" gap with about 60k mi of fuel deposits and are consistient. No oil valve cover leakage. Odometer reads 150k mi so likely they were changed about 90-100k mi.

What is best (or is there a more effective) way to make the ICE rev up besides manually holding throttle plate spring tangs? She seems to have sticky maybe partially clogged / gummy injectors & forcing it to run out the additive we put in will help clear out the fuel residue.

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Ran the '06 another couple of few minute spans and only stays running floored, then problem MFD displays and temp symbol inducating these codes:
P2111 Throttle stuck open. But I was flooring it snd son was holding her open)
P1116 Patrick Wong says coolant tank sensor problem.
P1121 accelerator posn sensor range problem.
P0A80 Bad HV batt, duh.

So we are going to swap some parts to see if the codes follow them one at a time to the '04.

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Found this the boys missed:

Yes, look very closely the throttle servo housing is cracked open and the pink wite is smashed.

 

Well thanks a lot that does help.
P1116 Well, we have a salvage canister sensor installed now with another spare to swap out.

P1121 Engine Coolant flow control valve sounds like an electric servo thermostat. Most the front end is new including radiator & condenser. Agreed, we filled & blead the inverter both with a professional fill system that bleeds, & used the bleeder provided. Unaware of any additional ICE bleeder but used same filler system. The lower 1/3 radiator is gor inverter and upper 2/3 is for ICE. is there a ICE bleeder screw? If so where?

Did not like what we saw down past the throttle body so took her off and we did have air cavitating in the body warmer & lines. Also cleaned out some goofs oil overfill mess of about 1/16 inch oil laying in bottom of intake which is why we had some blue smoke right at first starting her when flooring it.

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