Difference in EV mileage between Base and Advanced?

The example at the bottom is a 5.5% measured drop. Partly due to crr, but also because of a difference in diameter. For a pip, that will be larger because we're speed limited to ~60+mph, and most people tend to cruise around at ~45mph, so changes in crr will hit range more than a car that does 50% highway at 65+mph.

You can swap the wheels or do a coast down test to figure out the difference in crr between the two. If they still come back as similar, then buy a killawatt and you can see how much energy each car is using when it charges the battery.

Measure the drag coefficient of your car

If Toyota tweaked the software on the 2013 to allow for slightly more battery use, that could be what you're seeing too.

 

That would be a possibility. For example, if you drive to work every day and always charge it there in the morning directly after you arrive and it stays in the sun for the whole day, that will have a different effect on the battery than when you don't do this regularly. Temperature has been found as a main factor in an investigation of degradation of Leaf batteries that can be downloaded here.

 

in the o/m, something about not leaving the car fully charged for long periods of time.

of course, that led to great debate around here about the ambiguous 'long periods of time'.

which led to a debate about whether the timer is so your car isn't charged all night, or so you can take advantage of nighttime rates.

which eventually led to a typical dead end, each of us doing what is right in our minds.

so you can see, that someone who is only going to own or lease a car for a few years may not care about these things. and they are not easy to check like maintenance records for the mechanical parts of the car.

 

I guess I have been lucky. After 92,000 miles I still get over 14 miles of EV range while using the A/C. That's the indicated range; in actuality I am averaging between 14.6 and 15.2 miles of EV range while using the A/C. I have an Advance model with the European mudguards (which I am pretty sure create more drag than the US version) and missing spat for the rear driver side tire. I am currently running with a set of Continental PureContact and have been very happy with the fuel mileage when driving on hybrid mode and with the EV only range.

 

BTW- I would say that 98% of the thousands of charging cycles have been "Level I" using the Toyota supplied EVSE. I also charge at least twice a day with at least three charges during my days off.

 

i'm not talking about you, i mean the previous owner.

 

my '04 is showing no salt problems, how long are you expecting to keep it?

 

Greg_M, check the oil level on the 2012 PiP Advanced. A oil overfill could contribute significantly to your described mystery about the two PiPs with different EV capabilities.

(Edit) Does oil overfill really impact PiP running on electric motors only (EV)? The ICE has to be moving to be hindered by excess motor oil. So now I'm not so sure that oil overfill could contribute significantly.

 

Checking the tires I could not find the Michelin defender or Goodyear eagle LS in 195/65/15R on the Goodyear or tire rack website. The closest was 185/65/15R.

The interesting thing was Revs per mile;
Michelin defender green X 832 Revs per mile
Goodyear eagle LS. 880 Revs per mile

I'm going to let somebody else do the calculation to tell how that size difference will effect the odometer and hence miles driven on EV. Is it approx. %5 ?

 

You must have missed somehow: I found both in 195/65R15 on TireRack.

 

Since we know for a fact that the Classic model (gen-1) was upgraded along the way... the 2003 glided better than the 2001... why not apply that same reasoning to the gen-1 PHV model years?

 

Being facetious… but there will be a measurable drop-off in capacity over time. No one's been there to measure it yet, but hopefully we'll have enough data to make some statements one way or the other in another 5-7 years.

 

Did you check from the cars displays how many miles per kWh it indicates? If you see a difference there like 17% then this can confirm your feeling.

Alternatively, use a meter to measure the kWh input for charging from empty to full. If you find a difference like 17% there this shows the battery is to be blamed.

 

changing the brake fluid 3 times in 12 months, i would chase that rabbit down the hole.