I just cleaned the throttle body on my 05 and now it idles and won't cut the ice in park even after several minutes. If I shift into R or D, it cuts out. Switch back to P and it stays off. But if I touch the gas while in P, it idles indefinitely. My 06 cuts the ice immediately when I take my foot off the gas pedal, in P.. Also, when I took the car out for a test drive after cleaning the TB, I noticed when I let off the gas, the RPMs would go UP... Then it would take a minute for it to drop back down. Ugh... if it ain't broke, don't fix it..
Update: just took it around the block again and it didn't do the high idle, and just parked and the ice cuts out like it should (in P).. Maybe I loosened/shifted some throttle body debris and the car is working it out? Should I lube the TB plate? I did lube the spring. Maybe shouldn't have?
Did you get some, or a lot, of TB cleaner into the bore when you cleaned it? If you did, it's normal for it to affect the way the vehicle runs, till it burns off. Also, make sure you didn't forget to put back any hoses or connectors that you may have removed when cleaning the TB.
I stuffed some paper towels under the plate to catch the runoff. I did use quite a bit of the cleaner since I had those towels..
When you did clean it changed the idle point off the throttle valve. Adaptation off throttle valve idle point only changes slowly. Next time you clean it disconnect the 12v battery for some time. ECU will then re-learn the idle point of the throttle valve.
Ahhhh good tip! Should I just go ahead and disconnect the 12v right now and reset it to help it learn faster? Do I disconnect the negative from the battery terminal?
Yes it especially applies to Prius. ECU will test that engine can idle normally before it will shut the engine down. Since it now works normally you know it has re-learned idle point already. No need to disconnect 12v battery. You can disconnect the 12v battery by either one of these three: -Remove the negative battery terminal (keep it from touching terminal) (tools needed) -Remove the negative battery cable from the body (keep it from touching the body) (tools needed) -Remove the connectors from the battery positive terminal (no tools needed) (keep metal objects away from positive terminal EDIT: Clarification
If your fan is on and the temperature is set high to warm the cabin the engine will idle a lot. Turn off the fan and the engine should shut down while idling. I usually turn off the fan when I start out for several minutes and that works great and keeps excessive idling to a minimum.
So, remove the negative terminal, then completely remove the cable that goes to the back of the trunk (I assume this is to prevent it from whipping over and touching the negative terminal?) Then remove the positive Then wait some number of minutes?
No. just disconnect the neg cable at either end. wrap a rag around the disconnected end if it wants to flip back. once the cable is disconnected the circuit is broken and there's no benefit to disconnecting anything else.
Oh, I thought I had to do all three steps That makes sense... The moment the circuit is broken, now flow of electricity, no need to completely disconnect it as long as one terminal is no longer attached...
If you're going to leave it disconnected more than momentarily, a heavy work glove makes a good insulator: disconnect the negative lead, tuck it into the glove. And lay it's mate across the hatch lock mechanism, so you don't accidentally lock it, necessitating a crawl through the car. You can disconnect the negative lead either at the battery post or at the body, it's just a short connector cable. I disconnected at the body once, but don't think it's such a hot idea: the clean/bare metal of the battery post is more suitable point to disconnect. There can be a spark when you connect. It's a 10 mm bolt: either a wrench or compact ratchet drive will do. When reinstalling tighten with just a modest effort, it's kinda soft metal. Give it a wiggle after, make sure it's solidly clamped to the post.
I accidentally closed the hatch so... I had to do the crawl of shame. I also disconnected from the body because I couldnt get my crescent wrench around the neg terminal nut.... but I did get some sparking. Is sparking bad for the vehicle????
Sparking is only bad if it ignites hydrogen gas in the battery causing it to burst/explode and shower you with acid. I always cover the negative terminal loosely with a shop rag when reconnecting it to the battery to help shield any sparking from anything around the area, like flammable gases.
Sparking from the negative body screw/bolt shouldn't cause damage. When I change batteries, I usually disconnect from the body, then remove the battery with the negative still connected to the 12v. It's much easier that way
