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Mo Prius, Mo Problems lol. Just need help with codes! thanks

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by twinturboguy, Apr 23, 2015.

  1. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    So after successful low cost purchase of a 2002 Prius 195k miles. We just repaired Brake booster and car has been perfect and my mother stole the car lol. (She only likes huge vans/SUVs... guess she changed her mind quickly)

    Well we went out and got another Prius for my father. (first prius was originally supposed to be his...)
    2005 142k

    With a variety of long list of light show of codes.
    We changed the plugs, air filter sensor for maf. replaced air filter.
    (it shuttered at high load acceleration, its gone now after new plugs)

    We fixed a few. But here they are, what's left.
    Codes are in photo.

    Also have the hand brake issue where the ! is on and says brakes or something. but brake is not on and the button works normally and so does hand brake. I heard its common but i would also like to know how to fix this too. we have the key fob.
    Also ABS light is on but brakes stop perfect, so I think its the handbrake thing causing that.
    All fluids are normal.

    So i am not too sure what else codes mean besides A/C one.

    Car operates normally but with all these codes. I check the rear starter battery and its perfect, we even cleaned the terminals as it has the voltage issue?

    Let me know what you all think I should do or attempt.

    Thanks
    J
     

    Attached Files:

  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The main problem is you have a bad HV battery. That needs to be changed. Depending on what state you live in, it may or may not be under warranty
     
  3. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    Really wow? when i looked it up it didn't say anything about it being the hybrid battery...

    and mpg seemed normal. we did only drive it 75 miles.
    I got 62Mpg on 75 mile trip. Mixed conditions.

    is the read out sorta of accurate?
    because on our 2002 its under accurate. It would say 39 and would would actually get 48 avg out of the tank.

    We live in NJ. it has a 10 year warranty?
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    oh I confused the codes. Yours is P0A08, not P0A80. Sounds like someone jump started the car incorrectly
     
  5. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    nice? so whats going on. what do I do? I tried hard wiping everything with PC with the Toyota Software. and only does come back up after health check.
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if it was a cross connected jump, the main 100 amp fuse would be fried.
     
  7. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    ok. is that very bad? what does it cost? going to look it up.

    so it can cause this issue, even though its 100% functional?
     
  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    No, if the big $200+ fuse (correctly known as the DC/DC 100A fusible link) was blown, your car would not be drivable and you would also get a whole different set of DTC's.

    There should be another screen you can go to for each trouble code that will actually give you the plain english meaning for each DTC. Look for that. There are other more knowledgable PC's who can give you expanded detail info, so hopefully they will chime in at some point.
     
    #8 dolj, Apr 23, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2015
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As you're starting to see, in order for you to best be able to fix your car, and avoid confusion when the rest of us (even with the best of intentions) might mix stuff up, you need to be building up your own knowledge about the car so you're not relying only on an internet forum to solve your car's problems. We all like to help and you can get a lot of help here, but it just works better for everybody, especially you, when we can be working with you and not instead of you. It also occasionally happens on the forum that you'll get a bunch of different suggestions and some may be a bit off the wall (hey, it happens!) and you're better off when you're able to spot those so they won't cost you too much time.

    That all means you'll give yourself a huge advantage if you know where to go straight to the information you're trying to get. It's in the service manuals for your car at techinfo.toyota.com.

    You've made a good start on your problems by using Techstream and finding the codes the computers wanted to tell you about. Your natural next questions are (a) what do those codes mean, and (b) what are the necessary steps to find what's causing them. That information is in volume 1 of your service manual at techinfo. When you know where to find it yourself, that means you can be an informed PC member and use the rest of us on PC for help and clarification and additional hints, and you'll be able to make progress on your own even when we're away from our keyboards or if we occasionally get things mixed up.

    Cheers,
    -Chap
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    What is the accident history of this car? Does it by chance have a salvage title? How far have you driven the car with all of these codes present?

    I would suggest that you measure voltage across the 12V battery when the Prius is READY. If you measure ~13.8V then the DC/DC converter and the 100A DC/DC fusible link are both OK. This would mean that a botched jumpstart is not among the car's problems.

    Assuming that your measurement is consistent with the above, then the likely cause of P0A08 and P0A09 is a bad wiring harness connection and that may not be easy to pin down. So it would be good to know what physical damage the car has sustained as that may provide you a clue about where to look for wiring harness damage.

    The Toyota repair manual will provide advice regarding how to verify the wiring connections between the hybrid vehicle ECU in the dashboard, and the DC/DC converter located within the inverter.
     
  11. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    No issue as of accident. clean Title.
    I am going check all the fuses.

    I asked you folks because when i look up these codes i get tons of 12v low voltage things but nothing really saying anything different.
    ill try to put them up here.

    Fuse looks fine..

    Um i tested starter battery on 4 of my cars at home.
    2002 Prius 12.4 (runs good and 39-48mpg, mom drives like a nut as well)
    2003 Echo 13
    2005 Prius 12.18 (the car with the issues, and we don't move it much)
    1993 Dodge Stealth TT 12.75 or 13
    so this is normal then?
     
    #11 twinturboguy, Apr 24, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2015
  12. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    I read up on your old message.

    QUOTE="Patrick Wong, post: 1055272, member: 37850"]
    Regarding the various warning lights that are on, this is showing you that the skid control ECU is having a fit. Sometimes this will happen when the DC/DC converter within the inverter is not working, which lowers voltage on the 12V bus.

    Use a digital multimeter to measure voltage across the 12V battery when the car is READY. You should see 13.8VDC. If much lower, this shows you the DC/DC converter is not producing adequate voltage.

    Then, if the voltage is abnormally low, make the car IG-ON (start from IG-OFF, then press the POWER button twice without depressing the brake pedal, so that all the instrument panel warning lights are on.) Open the hood and look for the inverter coolant pump which is behind the driver's side headlamp assembly. Listen to see if you can hear the pump, which sounds like an aquarium pump.

    If you cannot hear the pump run, then it needs to be replaced. The inverter is probably overheating which caused the DC/DC converter to stop working. If you replace the pump the inverter may resume operation, or it may be fried and have to be replaced.

    If you can hear the pump run, do you hear any air bubbles? If yes, this has to be purged out. Then look at the inverter coolant reservoir and see if you can observe turbulence in the fluid. If yes, this shows that you have good circulation.[/QUOTE]

    I might be having this issue as I have all symptoms this guy had. also the spark plug issue, but after fixed.. my car is accelerating great.
    but he never responded so... kind of worried.

    but anyways i tried what you said and i don't think i hear the pump. I will check again.

    Ok just checked both prius's. none of them make any pump sounds... so both are broken? both had low fluids though. but no issues with 2002 that we know of.

    2005 Prius is at 14.1-14.2v when its turned on and running.
     
    #12 twinturboguy, Apr 24, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2015
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Regarding the inverter coolant pump and whether it is working or not, make the Prius READY and look for turbulence in the inverter coolant reservoir. If you do not see fluid turbulence then the pump is not working and that is definitely one of your car's problems.

    If you measure 14.1V when the Prius is READY, then the DC/DC converter is working and the DC/DC fusible link is fine. So the question is why DTC P0A08 is being posted. You'll need to verify the wiring harness connection between the inverter and the hybrid vehicle ECU, subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com if this is a task you wish to DIY.

    The Prius battery measuring 12.18V when the car is not running is not a very good measurement and the battery is close to discharged. Put the 12V battery on a charger, at least overnight, 4A charging rate. See if the resting battery voltage will improve after the charging process has been discontinued at least 8 hours.
     
  14. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    ok ill try that and charge the battery.
    but both my prius's don't turn on a water pump motor that i can hear of when i put the key acc mode 2 right before car start.
    i do not see any spinning of fluid, sound or anything on both cars when on or acc mode 2.

    but our 1st gen operates fine and zero codes...
     
  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    See the attached image that shows the invert coolant tank. Take the lid off and peer in - this is where Patrick is saying you should see turbulence when the car is "READY"

    Prius Gen II Inverter Reservoir.jpg

    I don't think you will really hear the inverter coolant pump as it is not really a loud noise, this is why we look for turbulence.

    hope this helps.
     
  16. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    thanks. ill check that.
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The inverter coolant pump is located behind the driver's side headlight assembly, and in front of the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter. It makes a slight whining noise.
     
  18. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    Ok its is absolutely working. You can see it when i had my pops mess with ACC mode 2 and off. its pumping. so whats next?

    Charging rear battery now.
     
    #18 twinturboguy, Apr 25, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2015
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You will need to check the wiring harness between the inverter and the hybrid vehicle ECU as I suggested in my post #13 above. Remove the lower glove compartment and look at the wiring to the engine and hybrid vehicle ECUs which are located to the right of the passenger cabin blower assembly. If you see obvious damage (for example, from rodent infestation) that must be fixed. If the wiring appears OK then you need to obtain the factory repair manual info to identify the wiring that must be verified.
     
  20. twinturboguy

    twinturboguy Junior Member

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    Ok we took battery out and charged it. it went to 12.9.
    then it was not connected to anything for about 10 hours and it is at 12.1 so it can be the battery?