Smart Key Problems.

i think it's related to the engineer installation.

 

The type of intermittent operation that you describe can be caused by RF interference. However, the correlation with the Engineer installation is highly suspicious. I would start there.

Tom

 

I have a problem with my driver side door. It used to intermittently unlock via the sensor. Now it doesnt ever. Its not the batterys or the fob b/c it works on the passenger side door no problem.

I used to always use my metal key until the mechanism for the release broke. I replaced it easy but now i just go unlock it through the passenger side.

Its probably the door lock actuator but I'm too cheap to fix it in my case.

 

As Qbee42 pointed out, Sounds like RF interference. The fob transmits at 312.15mhz, so if there is any RF in the area at that frequency, it will easily overpower the tiny signal from the fob. When you find it's not working, drive the car a few miles elsewhere and see if that changes it.

I doubt the Enginer DC-DC converter is operating at this frequency, though it's possibly spurious harmonics could be emitted that can swamp the receiver depending on how good the RF front end has been designed.

 

Start simple and easy: when did you last test the 12V battery?

http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html

If it tests bad it may be co-incidence, or it may be that an error in the PHEV installation is draining it.

 

I wasn't suggesting RF from the engineer kit. I was suggesting that the installation of the kit has left the SKS in a precarious state. If you do have RF trouble, it will most likely be external.

Tom

 

Did you ever find a solution to this?
I'm having the same issue.

Thanks,
Stockton

 

Hi Adric,
Be sure the Enginer box is well grounded to chassis ground. Wellnuts will cause this problem. Also the USB cable is an antenna. Be sure the display head is also at Chassis ground.

Finally I fully agree with the 12v battery issue. Be sure to check that.

Thanks
Dan

 

I have recently had this problem as well, only on the driver side. I noticed that if I press the little black lock button on the door, the lights will flash several times, the car will lock and then the if I put my hand around the handle it will unlock. I have also noticed that if I unlock the doors with the remote, all doors unlock but the driver side...there are variety of odd occurrences but all leading the driver door not unlocking. Does anyone have any insight or direction?

 

I can't speak the issue that I didn't quote but the above sounds like it's behaving correctly.

Assuming you have the SKS on you, pressing the black button == lock. Touching the back of the either of the two front door handles == unlock.

As for what you point out as problems, you could try testing your 12 volt via http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html after the car has sat overnight. Tell us the values at each step.

 

This is normal operation, except that the lights flash once when locking.

This doesn't make much sense. If the driver's door is unlocking with the SKS, then we know that the actuator is working. Unlocking with the fob should work the same way.

Weird problems like this are usually the result of a bad 12V battery. How is yours?

Tom

 

I have a similar problem to the OP's, I've noticed that if I push the "Valet button" under the steering wheel twice, it seem to fix the issue for a little while...

 

do you also have an enginer kit installed?

 

Negative, my car is 100% stock with the exception of interior LED lighting... (Just replaced bulbs with LED's)

 

i suppose i would test my 12 volt and fob batteries. does it do the same with either fob?

 

I didn't check the other fob or another name would be key less entree' If it works on mine it should work on all Prius with the same year and gen. Of course, my device would only work on my car, your car would only work on your car.

 

not sure what you mean, they are only programmed to one ecu.

 

I understand that both of the key less devices do the same things, but on my car only. What things the one does the other does the same. The panic button is a joke. For the car to start honking and lights flashing you must see someone tampering with your car. To do the test of your panic button you must first get far enough away from the car.to make sure the panic button is working by pushing it. Then you must get further away from the car so when you push the panic button it does not work because the signal is too weak to activate the horn and lights. Now that the device is too far away you should go another 15 yards to make sure the panic button still doesn't work. There is nothing wrong with the device or the panic button it just is not working because it is too far away from the car. Now press the panic button and at the same time point it at your head instead of pointing at your car. For some reason pointing at our head activates the horn and lights because the signal is now strong enough to do so. Pressing the red panic button again will shut off the horn and lights. The idea for the lights and horn to activate is to scare the car thief away from your car. In order to prevent the car thief from doing his thing you must see him do his thing. If I saw a thief I would call 911 rather than push the panic button or maybe do both.

Bisco I am sure my devices do the same thing, but on my car only.

Scotrinaf, I didn't compose the above. Somebody else did.