2007-2009 Touring,Is steering and handling better than standard prius?

1. When were the front struts/rear shocks last replaced? If your answer is "never", then that would probably help.
2. What is the condition of the tires? What is the tire air pressure? If you have been using more than 35/33 psi try reducing pressure to manufacturer's spec.
3. Touring will probably have a firmer ride.

 

How many should come out of the struts / shock? I have approx. 90K miles and I do feel a little harsh ride even with 35 / 33 psi on 205/60/15 defenders.

 

Yes, I would not be surprised if your struts/shocks are worn at 90K miles. That has certainly been my personal experience with the Prius I have owned.

 

please update with total cost of replacing

 

You both are WAY OVERDUE for strut replacement! I speak from experience.

If these are still the original struts, replace them all.
Read my front (post #48) and rear (post #3) replacement to convince your self it is time. After this maintenance experience, I'm a firm believer in the strut maker's claim of 5year/50,000mile limit to maintain optimum suspension performance/ride; the degradation is so slow, you will likely not know/feel it.

When replacing the rears, clean the HV battery fan since you'll have access to it; you'll be amazed at how much dust is collected between the blades.

Total cost of parts for a complete front strut and rear shock replacement: ~$319 (KYB stuff came from Amazon. Toyota parts Camelback online).
KYB front strut, $41 left, $53 right
KYB front strut mount, $48 each
KYB rear shocks, $58 each
KYB rear bellow (didn't need; discovered after the rear shock off the car), $6used, $10new
KYB rear mount kit, $6used, $9new
Toy font upper dust seal, $4.56/ea
Toy front upper insulator (big rubber boot; must get as the old one will be trash), $16.15/ea
Toy front lower insulator (just get, even though yours will probably appear in great shape; maybe old part will fall apart in 20k miles?), $10.57/ea
Toy rear upper insulator (just get, even though yours will probably appear in great shape; maybe old part will fall apart in 20k miles?), $9.62/ea

I replaced the struts myself. Dealer labor rate for front and rear replacement (No parts), was $1k at Hooman, and $800 at Cabe.

 

Thank you for detailed post. Not sure if I will be able to replace the struts myself. I can order the parts and ask my local Meineke to quote me the replacement.

 

Since your profile indicates your somewhere in the San Fernando Valley, perhaps give Avi @ Avi's Advance Automotive a call; he's in Tujunga.
Avi’s Advanced Automotive - Tujunga - Tujunga, CA | Yelp

 

I have tried getting in touch with him but did not get any response, when I went to his location the body shop next dior told me he moved to Inglewood, I have been trying to locate an address fir inglewood since then.

 

Try PM (Private Message) him directly w/in Prius Chat (PC): Avi's Advance Automotive

I just now noticed that his PC Avatar says "Hybridfix.com"
Typing that web address gets you here:
Hybrid Fix - Google+
Address and Phone for an Inglewood, CA, location is listed. Homework for you is to determine if the info listed is correct.

Good luck.

 

I test drove a 2005 and discounted the Prius as an option as it handled like a boat feeling like it would flip if I went around a corner too fast. Given my aggressive lane drifting around corners type of driving, I never wanted to drive a Prius again.

Then the Touring model came out. I decided what the heck and give it another driver. Totally different car.

That said, if you're not the kind of driver to need the firmer suspension and larger contact patch, you'll never notice that it's better and the only thing you will notice is firmer ride. The 2008 Touring you're considering will be harsher than your 2005.

 

While the touring version of the Prius does have better handling than the non touring "at the expense of a firmer ride" it can be even further improved by changing the tyre size to 205/55/16 from the OEM 195/55/16 size. The transformation is quite remarkable.

John (Britprius)

 

I did that for one set of tires but the fuel economy decrease wasn't worth the slightly improved grip.

 

This is what I'm going to do as soon as I need to change my tyres. I'm aware that the slight change in MPG is purely cosmetic and is actually more accurate in real terms . However, I'm just curious; wouldn't putting a slightly different size of tyre from the norm on the Prius be counted as a modification by insurance?

 

I contacted my insurance regarding this, and they were quite happy with the tyre size change. I suppose technically even changing the make of tyre fitted could be construed as a modification.
I then asked about fitting steel wheels with winter tyres for the winter. At first I was told because I was changing the wheels to non standard wheels this would be considered a modification. When I pointed out that using steel wheels was purely to counteract the use of salt on winter roads, and the damage that salt does to aluminium. I also pointed out fitting and removing tyres from wheels on multiple occasions "to change from summer to winter" was not recommended by tyre manufacturers. Further fitting winter tyres reduced the risk to the insurance "after some discussion with his boss" the guy in the call centre said "fitting steel wheels would still be considered a modification, but as long as I notified them of the change no extra charge would be made to my premium as it would not be considered performance enhancing".

John (Britprius)

 

The steel wheel wasn't the same size as the OEM?

Snow tires should be considered a "safety enhancement," giving you a slight price break during winter.

Hard to believe insurance doesn't know about snow tires and mount/dismount tires regularly is bad (ie summer to winter tire change out).

 

The steel wheels are the same size as the OEM.
Car insurance in the UK is very different to the US. Any modification from the OEM can increase the premium paid. If you do not tell the insurer about a modification if you have a claim and the assessor spots the modification you are not insured. This includes things like aftermarket wheels, lowering, body kits, and any modifications to the engine intake or exhaust or the engine it's self.
Insurance rates vary tremendously depending on your age and driving record.
I pay $320 a year for comprehensive cover. This covers damage to my own car, third party damage, injury, loss of keys, breakdown cover, 3 months continental cover, legal cover, and protected no claims discount. This means I can have 2 at fault claims in 3 years without affecting my premium. Claims that are not my fault do not affect the premium.
My grandson aged 20 having just passed his driving test, and driving a car with an engine under 1000 cc will have to pay $4000.

John (Britprius)

 

Ouch. Seems like UK insur is more expensive than US? At least for young drivers.

 

In the UK we also do not drive till we are 17 years old.

John (Britprius)